The Sewing Place

`

sewingj

`
« on: May 15, 2017, 16:10:34 PM »
.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2021, 10:26:24 AM by sewingj »

BrendaP

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2017, 16:20:11 PM »
Definitely stabilise the seam allowance with iron on interfacing to prevent the fabric from stretching, and use an invisible zip foot.

I have recently subscribed to 'Sew Today' and the June edition came through my letterbox at lunchtime.  There is an article about zip insertion and that recommends the strip of interfacing be 2cm wide so that it's more than the seam allowance and thus the stitching goes through the interfacing as well as the zip and the fabric.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Mama likes to make

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2017, 16:26:00 PM »
Yep I always put a strip of iron on interfacing onto the edge about two fingers wide and make sure it goes a little bit past where the zip will end. I use an invisible zipper foot and am usually pretty happy with it.
2018 fabric used 12m.
2018 wardrobe items completed 6.

charlotte

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2017, 17:11:44 PM »
I love putting in invisible zips! Weird, I know. I always stabilise the seam - either with fusible or a stip of silk organza if it's something fancy.

I use an adustible zip foot so I can get right up against the teeth. And then I steam the hell out of it and press it flat with my fingers - especially if it's cotton.

I once tried to put an invisible zip in by hand and it was an absolute disaster...

I'm attempting my first ever exposed zip in a dress soon so we'll see how that goes...

Francesca

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #4 on: May 15, 2017, 17:13:38 PM »
I learnt to sew a normal zip when I first started. It was horrible. The next thing I made had an invisible zip and I remember thinking "why didn't I just do this from the beginning?!"

I haven't put a single normal zip in anything since.

Ravingdoll

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2017, 18:45:37 PM »
Sadly I just can't get on with invisible zips.  I can put them in okay, but the teeth always seems to break after a couple of wears so that you can still pull the zip up and down but it doesn't either open or close.  I've been known to make an emergency night time trip to the neighbours to get assistance as I couldn't get my dress off.  I was also on a date once and literally wet myself because I couldn't get my trousers undone.  What was even worse about that was we were on the moors in a pub and he was driving, and I had to sit on his dog's towel on the way home so that his seat didn't get wet. So no, invisible zips are not the way to go for me!  I find them particularly bad crossing seams, particularly on dresses where the bodice meets the skirt, they'll go in fine into the waist but then get stuck going out of the curve (and it's not because the dresses are too tight honest!).  It's so frustrating, someone 'in the know' suggested using a small hammer and flattening that bit of seam but I've lost so much confidence in them now (I have a pile of dresses in the alteration basket waiting for me to replace the broken invisible zips of dresses I have bought) that I am happy to do lapped or normal zips.  If I say so myself, which I do, I put in a mean zip, mostly because a badly inserted zip to 'her in charge of quality control aka muv' seems to have a Belisha beacon next to it which only she can see.  I joke you not, she is like a fox who has just caught sight of a rabbit if she sees a wonky zip, the back goes ramrod straight, the head swivels and the eyes focus and from that point onwards she cannot be distracted .......

UttaRetch

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #6 on: May 15, 2017, 19:16:11 PM »
I can barely manage an ordinary zip let alone an invisible one.  :(

Ravingdoll

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2017, 19:35:10 PM »
I think invisible zips are easier to insert personally!  But I am sure that you do down your skills really UR.  Muv's read a few of your posts (she remembers that you were very kind when I was ill/marriage break up) and she's often observed that she would like to get her hands on you (purely in a sewing manner you understand) as she thinks you have not been taught sufficient basics! 

Vegegrow

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2017, 19:40:15 PM »
I've put in a lot of zips.. struggled with invisible until I bought an invisible zip foot.... :loveit:
"The only place where housework comes before needlework is in the dictionary." ~Mary Kurtz

UttaRetch

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #9 on: May 15, 2017, 19:41:45 PM »
 0_0   0_0  My real problem is that I lack application and tend to throw in the towel too early.  I always thought 'Muv' sounds wonderful, but would be a stern taskmistress.  I  :'( very easily.

Catllar

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2017, 19:51:52 PM »
I prefer invisible zips but they don't cut the mustard in real tight fitting flamenco dresses - metal zippers are better there.  I generally stabilise the seam allowance and I make it wide enough to stitch through. I give it a good press first before sewing to flatten out any bounce!
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

Ravingdoll

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2017, 19:53:31 PM »
Funnily enough muv said similar, and she's not even met you!  Her modus operandi is picking up a piece of sewing between forefinger and thumb and saying "but this is not acceptable"!  But the main thing is that she shows you how to put it right rather than criticise for the sake of it, so you get used to it.  And she does know her stuff.  Providing we are talking about sewing and not cooking that is!!  :D

Ploshkin

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2017, 22:03:07 PM »
So long ago I can't remember when, I learnt to sew in a zip by hand.  It is  pretty near invisible and is the method I use for zips 90% of the time.  On the whole I find it quicker than using a machine.
Life's too short for ironing.

BrendaP

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2017, 23:25:41 PM »
Hand sewing is often considered the better way of inserting a lapped zip, IMO great for places where it won't get much stress, but not as strong as machine stitched.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

jen

Re: invisible zip
« Reply #14 on: May 16, 2017, 07:48:01 AM »
I don't usually have a problem with invisible zips and rarely stabilise the seam allowances. I agree that crossing seams are the tricky bits.