The Sewing Place

Riding Habit

Ploshkin

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #45 on: June 17, 2017, 18:47:22 PM »
It sounds as if you are making good progress.
Life's too short for ironing.

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #46 on: June 18, 2017, 08:52:46 AM »
Thanks. I thought so too until I remembered last night I also need to make a false waistcoat! But I might buy one if I can find a nice suitable one in the right colour.

Ordering my proper fabric this week as I make up jacket toile number two.

And I need to find some nice buttons.

KayK

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #47 on: June 18, 2017, 22:35:47 PM »
I've come to this thread rather late, but loving seeing your progress!

I rode side saddle years ago (when I had a comfy horse!) and did think at one time of making my own habit - I have remembered there is a site called 'The Side Saddle Lady' (and I've just checked  - the site is still there!) She has some lovely patterns for all types of habits - maybe you might like to make another one!

I remember having even the soles of my boots checked - I used to wear carrier bags on them before I was hoisted on!
Vintage machine lover, Singer 201K, 99K, 401G, Singer 780 Touch and Sew and now a new member of the family - Brother Innovis 700 embroidery machine, cheap and cheerful and sews like a dream!

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #48 on: June 19, 2017, 18:53:22 PM »
I'll defintely be trying to make a Victorian style one once I get over this one. My tailor friend said she has the pattern books with all of those sorts of jackets in  <3

She has also lent me some of her professional tailors sample books with the correct sort of lining fabrics in and I'm drooling over all the gorgeous fabrics. There are a couple of lovely sky blues, some very nice shot fabrics and I've enjoyed stroking them!

I'm feeling very spoiled by her. Even when I think she's being overly nice about my sewing skills! Haha

Catllar

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #49 on: June 19, 2017, 20:49:09 PM »
Coming on nicely - watching with interest as this is  totally outside my comfort zone!
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !


Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #50 on: June 19, 2017, 20:55:53 PM »
I was going to re-do my toile today but couldn't bring myself to go into the summer house, even with all the blinds down it is roasting, unless I open the glass wall and windows, but then every bug comes in for a chat and everything gets blown around in the slightest breeze! I'll start tomorrow I think and aim to have a new toile done by the evening.

It's totally out of my comfort zone too! Give me a quilt any day!

It's all getting very real! Ordering fabric tomorrow as I forgot today in the heat.

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #51 on: June 20, 2017, 14:15:47 PM »
So tolie version 2 is done.

I made a real mess of the collar. I had no idea how I was supposed to attach it after I bagged it out and I think it's gone horribly wrong. No, I know it's gone horribly wrong. I started off sticking it on upside down and I put it back on the right way up but it's wrong! Have attached a pic of how awful it is (and yes those raw edges are on the outside!)

The line at the front is much better and the sleeves aren't so ridiculously long. Hoping once the collar thing is sorted I can make it properly!

Been reading up in the tailoring bible about how to do the pockets properly so that's good!

wrenkins

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #52 on: June 20, 2017, 14:45:13 PM »
I have absolutely no idea what you're doing but it's fascinating nevertheless.  :S
Carry on!   :)  :drink:

Missie

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #53 on: June 21, 2017, 10:45:38 AM »
So tolie version 2 is done.

I made a real mess of the collar. I had no idea how I was supposed to attach it after I bagged it out and I think it's gone horribly wrong.

Don't worry, its not as bad as you think.  You just need to sew it the other way, ie right sides of undercollar to right side of jacket, (and I probably wouldn't sew the upper collar on until you've done that!) then when the collar is properly in situ, the lining is sewn to the edges of the upper collar, thus enclosing the raw edges.

I'm really enjoying following this project!

elisep

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #54 on: June 21, 2017, 12:28:51 PM »
If you're using the Suitability jacket pattern, it is designed to use wool melton or felt as the undercollar, hence the raw edges being on the outside.
If you want to use self fabric on the undercollar, all you need to do is add your seam allowance on in the correct places, and then consult your tailoring book for order of construction. I did the same for my jacket and it all worked out fine.

AnneFrances

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #55 on: June 23, 2017, 14:08:09 PM »
Just coming in rather late to say that Thomas von Nordheim's book on Vintage Tailoring (actually I am not sure why he says "vintage" - perhaps just because he does not use fusible interfacings)  is very helpful indeed - and does, I think, include instructions for using a felt or melton for the undercollar so you could see how the techniques vary.  I daresay you have managed to source all the hair canvas etc you will need, but if not then Kenton Trimmings in London do have pretty much anything one might need. It does look as if it is coming along beautifully - hats off to you for making the attempt.

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #56 on: June 26, 2017, 17:33:32 PM »
My wool has arrived! All 4kg of it. Looks so lovely I can't bear to cut into it!
Now for apron skirt to be made and hung to allow for bias drop. Jacket fitting over new corset! this weekend. (feeling super lucky as an amazing lady who specialises in historical costumes and corsets found space for me in her seriously busy waitlist! It's like it was meant to be!) I'll post of photo of it when it arrives :D

This cavalry twill is lovely and I'm going to clean up my tables to make sure I don't wreck it when cutting out!

DementedFairy

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #57 on: June 26, 2017, 19:54:01 PM »
Looks lovely- but I see no twill.  Probably my eyes!  lol
C'est moi!

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #58 on: June 26, 2017, 20:00:25 PM »
The twillness is on the other side I think - all a bit of a blur, was unwrap and check colour before rushing off to work! Couldn't get the colour to photo well on the other side though. I'll get pictures of it all laid out at some point (probably late tomorrow or early Weds!

Pretty pretty blue! And very very soft. I'd rather hope so considering the cost pm!

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #59 on: June 27, 2017, 06:55:21 AM »
Here's a picture of the twill side. Hard to photograph for colour or twill, hence the other side!