The Sewing Place

Riding Habit

DementedFairy

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #30 on: June 14, 2017, 18:24:51 PM »
Sounds exciting!

For linings, I love cupro [also sold as bemberg] which is an acetate silk-like fabric.  Very cool and pleasant to wear.

If your jacket toile works well, you can use the pieces as underlining for the real thing, which will give it extra oomph and make it last longer.
C'est moi!

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #31 on: June 14, 2017, 18:52:34 PM »
Bemburg! I remember seeing that in the fancy tailoring bible book when I glanced through it! I didn't realise it was a fabric  :o

I'll give it a lookup and try and find some in a matching? colour - I assume matching is best. Navy is a bit boring though ;)

Oooh underlining - would that be as well as the canvas and lining? Not sure if that would make 32oz twill jacket very heavy? It's a whole new world of fun this clothes making malarkey. And I fear I've rather jumped in the deep end going straight for elegant tailored jacket and side saddle skirt. Although I am loving these darts - straight lines! Just like P&Q!

I read a bit of the tailoring book about padding the canvas with stitches and discovered that you actually make it bend around a bit as you stitch! Who knew!

I've been roasted today so haven't got as far forward as I wanted to - but my deadline of the weekend to have the toile done is vital as tailor friend is working on a film and is only back at weekends - nothing like a deadline!

DementedFairy

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #32 on: June 14, 2017, 19:00:23 PM »
Yeah the whole point of pad stitching, steaming and other tailoring techniques is to make things 3D.  HAve you got a tailor's ham?  Indispensable for good tailoring.

The underlining is just to give extra body and durability, and isn't ABSOLUTELY vital for'normal' tailoring...you do keep saying how hard wearing this needs to be though.  the polish that underlining gives is really noticeable, especially for either very fitted garments, or very draped ones...

Lining can be a really gorgeous contrast, I love patterned linings, especially with some flat piping for added glam, it all ends up very stoosh.  You can find great ones online, especially places selling men's tailoring fabrics.  I used a shot one in the wife's coat...

C'est moi!

DementedFairy

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #33 on: June 14, 2017, 19:01:42 PM »
And yes, it's pure wool, underlined in rescued poly-cotton from an old duvet cover, chest cand back canvas, padstitching etc.
It weighs a ton, but will last a looooong time
C'est moi!

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #34 on: June 14, 2017, 19:11:42 PM »
Ooooooh I love shot fabrics!

I'm just worried about stitching all of these layers together! Quilting not a problem, but clothes?!

A ham? I assume you don't mean of the pork variety?

It does indeed need to last - and hopefully make me look slim and elegant and amazing ;) :ninja:

I'm not sure I can be too adventurous with the linings, but maybe I can find a blue/purple shot lining? subtle but fun...

That coat looks lovely, hope she's pleased with it!

DementedFairy

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #35 on: June 14, 2017, 19:17:10 PM »
The coat is practically hung up for display she's so happy with it- being  a little dot, she's never had a long coat that actually hits her in the right proportions, so she's in love with it!

There are fewer layers [in most places] than in a nasty fat quilt lol

The tailoring trims a lot of the bulk away from the seams, just keeping it to do its thing where needed.  One of the most useful techniques is spending a bit of extra time to catch stitch the seam allowances to the underlining, so all your seams stay lovely and smooth, curved OR straight.  Without underlining, you can't do that, as the stitches would mar the main fabric.

Blue/purple sounds GOOD
C'est moi!

Acorn

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #36 on: June 14, 2017, 19:40:01 PM »
I'm watching this in silent (and fascinated) awe - but I do want to say that a shot blue/purple lining under navy blue sounds wonderful.   :D
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Ploshkin

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #37 on: June 14, 2017, 20:19:22 PM »
If you will be having shoulder pads for the jacket  then you will need them for fitting the toile as they change things quite considerably.  (You can just stuff them in place when you try on the toile, they don't need stitching in.)
Life's too short for ironing.

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #38 on: June 14, 2017, 20:26:58 PM »
Yes, my tailor friend has given me "proper shoulder pads, it's so hard to find proper ones" which looks very confusing shape wise. I forsee lots of hand sewing in my future and I'm rubbish at it!

I'm rather winging it with a "how hard can it be?!" attitude which I'm sure will die as soon as this jacket toile is underway! The skirt has given me a false sense of security I think  :S

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #39 on: June 15, 2017, 16:22:15 PM »
So I cut my fronts, back, sides and collar bits as well as the front facings and set off on my making a jacket toile journey.

It started so well, I remembered to stick all the lines and blobs on the right side and started sewing bits together as per pattern (ignoring the interfacing bits) and then I discovered I needed roll tape (I don't have any) so I cut two strips of calico and sewed them on (no idea what they do) and carried on. Got to welt pockets. I hadn't cut the bag bit as was in my linings pile and didn't think I needed it. Thought I'd read through the instructions and no idea what they were going on about once I looked at the pictures. So I did the flaps and have left them unattached. I am claiming it is because I haven't fitted the jacket yet and feel that needs doing first ;) Attached front bits, back bits, side bits. Realised I'd actually sewed the armholes shut so un did that bit (good job the whole lot is being done with machine basting) and looked ok.

Came to attach the undercollar and it wanted me to clip the neckline. I didn't want to as I'm certain it will need adjusting and I'd rather not have chunks cut out that I might need later. So I sewed it on with the clips. And it fit really really well!

I am amazing I thought. I was born to do this! Then I read the next instruction and all of my bravado vanished. I had no idea how to attach the upper collar to my front facings. The picture was useless. The words were useless. I pick up my borrowed bible and there it is! How to attach it! Brilliant. I do so and feel victorious once again.

Now to attach the facings to the front. I discover my 'roll tape' is on the front and it should be inside. Never fear! I think, 'tis but a toile. So I start sewing my facings on. The more I sew the worse I feel. Thern are roll lines in possibly but possibly not weird places. The lapel seems much smaller now (again I didn't clip anything as it might all need adjusting) and I'm not sure I've done it right, it looks a bit of a mess. I haven't pressed it yet but I'm not sure I want to!

I'm not sure what comes next but I have a feeling it's sewing the collar bits together... And then the terrifying sleevies.

I was told to measure the back and my back and see how they match up and to adjust. It's possibly a half inch or so too long.. And it's definitely too wide, but as it is made up of front, side back, and back and possibly a side front, I don't know where to make the change. So I'll wait for my tailoring boot camp at the weekend!

It is so hard to stick with 1/2" seams, I'm so used to 1/4"! I find myself reverting and having to correct.

Acorn

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #40 on: June 15, 2017, 16:44:46 PM »
Have a cup of coffee - you've earned it!  :drink:  (I sneaked some brandy in.)
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Ploshkin

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #41 on: June 15, 2017, 17:15:14 PM »
For your toile you don't need to do the pockets, upper collar or facings or any of the twiddly bits.  It is just to check the overall fit to see if you need to make any pattern alterations before cutting.  This is actually easier to do if you have only one layer of fabric.  If you get your toile with the (under) collar sitting nicely and make any pattern alterations (if necessary) to both collar pieces it will go together just fine when you do the actual thing.
Life's too short for ironing.

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #42 on: June 15, 2017, 20:38:26 PM »
I did not know that! Wooops! Well I could do with the practice and I can always rip it off haha!

I've done the sleevies. Though I skipped the middle bit as it was horribly confusing in both words and pictures and I think it had to do with the vented cuff which I have no idea...

Anyway the sleevies went in remarkably well. But I have just read the pattern back and I was supposed to put gathers in at the top...which I haven't done. Not sure I like gathers on a habit, but never look closely enough! Don't know if they are essential and functional or just decorative. Another question for my friend  :S I'll have to get her a nice big bottle of something nice!

And here are some terrible pictures.

Ploshkin

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #43 on: June 15, 2017, 22:29:44 PM »
The gathers around the sleeve head are just to help ease it into the armhole.  With a woollen garment you do a lot of pressing and steaming to help it shrink to fit neatly.  The finished sleeve head will not look gathered at all.
When you gather a sleeve head (or anything for that matter) you do 2 parallel lines of stitching about 2mm apart.  That gives you much neater / smoother gathers and makes it much easier in this situation where they are for easing.
Life's too short for ironing.

Syrinx

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #44 on: June 17, 2017, 11:29:28 AM »
Spent a lovely morning with my friend testing the fit and shape of my toiles.

Skirt is pretty good, need to add a bit to the left back and make some of the knee darts bigger. But can go ahead with the proper fabric!

The jacket. Well, apparently I put it together pretty well, but some of the pattern was a bit iffy. So after fitting it and working out what needs to be taken in my lovely friend sent me for my pattern pieces and she set abiut 'fixing' them. She added bits, chopped bits, changed the fit of bits and hacked at the awful shoulder pattern. We messed with the lapels which were very stingy and chahged the cut in front to look better and be more flattering. So now I need to make a fresh toile for the jacket. I'll rip the first one apart and cut what I can, but I'll need to cut some fresh pieces. I've also got collar homework to practice making it up and attaching properly.

It's all looking positive and she seems pleased with my progress :D so hopefully I'll manage to make my skirt and hang it to allow the bias to drop before properly hemming it and I'll have a better looking jacket toile!