The Sewing Place

McCalls 7256

Syrinx

McCalls 7256
« on: May 29, 2017, 18:54:00 PM »
Saw this whilst browing the sewdirect sale.
I've not used McCalls before so don't know how their sizes come up.

Has anyone made this pattern? http://www.sewdirect.com/acatalog/McCalls-M7256.html Does it look very very complicated? Or a nice meaty jacket to get stuck into?

It looks lovely and a bit more exciting for a winter coat than the usual up down straight lines.

dolcevita

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2017, 19:03:21 PM »
I haven't made it, but it looks like great fun!  I wouldn't say that it's the most practical of winter coats due to the very deep V at the front (down to the waist) but if you can work around this with the rest of your wardrobe it would be lovely.

Despite all the frills, I don't think it will be all that complicated from a fitting or making point of view.  I would certainly make a toile of the bodice before going anywhere near your fashion fabric; I have always found that McCalls and Butterick have very broad, square shoulders and upper chest so check these areas out first when you're fitting.

Syrinx

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2017, 19:21:43 PM »
Thank you! It does look fun doesn't it! Practical never bothers me, I have a job where I work outside with animals so I'm always dressed practically. An impractical jacket for going out in is definitely acceptable!

Thanks for the tip re shoulders and chest. I've also got a long body but overall I'm only just over 5'1" so I can see fit problems with bodice and the floaty fun bit. Glad you don't see it as too complicated, I'm not sure how competent I am! (if at all)  :S

This dressmaking stuff is an exciting new world!

Tamnymore

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2017, 20:03:01 PM »
Yes it's quite a dramatic pattern so could be lovely with the right fabric. It looks very fitted so I don't think there will be much ease. The sleeves look quite narrow and it has a defined waist so it is worth measuring yourself against their standard sizes to see how you compare. Tissue fitting and even a toile would be a good idea before cutting into precious fabric.
I always have a dig round t'internet to see if I can find any reviews when I try a new (to me) pattern. The Pattern Review website is often really useful for reviews.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Syrinx

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2017, 20:15:38 PM »
Thanks, I'll see if I can find the pattern sizing. I know I'm fairly even (measured myself for a new riding corset recently so a tonne of measurements!) 34 full bust, 32 underbust, 26 waist, 34 hip... off top of my head. I don't know what sort of ratio patterns are designed for though...do coats need pulling out over the bust for larger boobs? It's a whole new confusing world!

Tamnymore

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2017, 20:26:06 PM »
I can see a number of reviews and a youtube tutorial on the web so that should help. The sizing will be on the pattern so you can see how you compare. Someone with a larger cup size may need to to a FBA ( full bust adjustment) as patterns are usually sized for an average B/C cup - not something I've had to worry about  :S There are sure to be online tutorials if you need to do a FBA.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Syrinx

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2017, 20:30:19 PM »
ooooh  :o I will need to do that as I don't think a DD can fit into a B sized chest bit, even if it is a plunge line!

A youtube tutorial! Brilliant. :) Always handy to see someone else doing it flawlessly :D

DementedFairy

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2017, 20:38:54 PM »
Choose size by overbust measurement, add an FBA, but always check on the pattern pieces before any of this to see finished garment measurements first.  Some Big 4 allow loads of ease
C'est moi!

BrendaP

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2017, 20:44:38 PM »

I've not used McCalls before so don't know how their sizes come up.

Palmer Pletsch's 'Fit for Real People' compares the fitting shell/sloper bodices of the Big Four.
Vogue and Buttererick are identical.
McCalls are identical at the front,  but a slightly shallower back dart which they reckon is not enough to make any significant difference.
Simplicity is similar although the side seams are slightly further back, but again not a huge difference.  Could you guarantee that your cutting out is accurate to 1/8" on every single piece?
Lengthwise they are all the same.

Therefore any differences in the fit between the brands must come from the amounts of ease allowed in each design, and that probably comes down to the designers more than the publishing company.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Syrinx

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2017, 20:46:01 PM »
It's like learning a new language!

P&Q is soooo much easier. But I will crack this. In regards to being accurate to 1/8" I shall say yes, due to P&Q practice with tiny seams and wiggly block designs (I like a challenge!).

So I do know you ignore RTW sizing (useless that they are) so overbust being 34", the McCall's pattern sizing chart on their site says size 12. Then I have to make space for the extra boob?

How does the overbust not match the bust size? I'm trying to work out how the overbust/cup sizing works. It would explain how nothing ever fits well when I buy RTW tops if they are designed for B cups!

DementedFairy

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2017, 21:10:50 PM »
The aim is to get a fit that is nice and accurate on your shoulders, chest and round the armholes.  Boobage is just a bit of extra room at the front, but the bodice should start by fitting your torso.  Overbust gives a 'chest size' effectively.

Nothing needs to be sewn as accurately as all that nonsense on the dark side, same for couture- it's pretty rough business inside!

C'est moi!

Tamnymore

Re: McCalls 7256
« Reply #11 on: May 29, 2017, 22:03:07 PM »
Just a point about length. The big 4 pattern companies are sized for women who are 5'6" in height so I expect that at 5'1" you will have to make some length adjustments somewhere- for instance  the sleeves are bound to be too long. The pattern should have lines on the main pieces which say 'lengthen or shorten here.' It's all part of the fun of getting the fit right!
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde