The Sewing Place

The skirt that will be the death of me

Jo

The skirt that will be the death of me
« on: June 02, 2017, 08:20:54 AM »
This is one of the first skirts I ever made. Initially I put a thick waistband with the invisible zipper running through the waistband. Fine craftsmanship I did, but, of course, the zipper kept popping open. And I did find the waistband to be a little too thick anyway.
So I took it out  and replaced it with a thinner waistband. Well, what do you know? Too thin this time.
The fabric is a double layer scuba knit, quite heavy and thick, and really doesn't want to hold a crease. So my seams were really bulky in the waistband and it looked all puffed up and awful!
There I go taking it out again.
This time I used a facing instead of folding over, and used a much thinner fabric for the facing.
Mistake number one: didn't interface it  :angry: so it looks rather home made. But that's ok, it's on the inside, I can live with it  :D.
Mistake two: waist got too big! I don't know how that got there. Probably with all the ripping and handling (or maybe I lost a little weight?!), the waist stretched a little, so now the skirt no longer sits on my waist but a little lower. And the waistband is, of course, gaping  :devil:
Do you guys have any solution besides ripping and sewing a contoured waistband?
I'm soooo fed up with working on this skirt! I even sewed the buttons this time  :'(

Francesca

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2017, 09:29:12 AM »
When you're wearing it with clothing, does it bother you? Honestly it's not a huge gape... I'd be tempted to leave it. It seems to not be noticeable when you have your shirt tucked in.

Only other thought it to grade the seams properly with pinking shears to help with the bulk issue, or do some form of stab-stitch to pull the outer layer in tighter to the under layer.

Jo

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2017, 09:33:14 AM »
It's not a huge gape and not really noticeable if I have my shirt tucked in. All seams were graded and the seam allowance understitched to the facing. I suspect the issue is not interfacing the facing (why oh why did I think it would be ok?) so it doesn't have enough structure/strenght.
I might wear it a few times and see how much this bothers me. If it's too much...well, I'll probably rip it out again  :'(

b15erk

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2017, 09:40:07 AM »
I think the fabric may have stretched when you've been un-picking.  It's easily done, especially if you help the process along by pulling it a bit....  ;)

I suspect this may be more noticeable if you are slim.  I have quite a bit of flesh on my bones, and I don't think it would be so much of an issue.   ;)

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

DementedFairy

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2017, 10:05:02 AM »
Being me, I'd run a channel with wide elastic inside the facing, just enough to fix any stretching and gaping without much fuss.  Pretty skirt!
C'est moi!

Jo

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2017, 10:15:34 AM »
(Un)Fortunately I'm on the too skinny side of the scale, so fitting issues are quite apparent.
Demented Fairy, that's a great idea and seems the easiest fix. Here's a dumb question tho: any way (except hand sewing  :D) to sew the channel to the facing without pulling the waistband apart?

toileandtrouble

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2017, 10:46:03 AM »
Try undoing the facing at the bottom of the waistband. Then with the waistband underneath (and no even feed, if you have it) sew a stay tape along the seam at the top of the waistband, keep the tape taut and let the band do its own thing. Hopefully the feed dogs will gather the fabric slightly as you sew and pull it in. In fact, measure the desired length on to a piece of tape and mark it (don't cut it, so you have something to hold on to). Pin the tape evenly at several places along the band to the measured length, then proceed as above.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

DementedFairy

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #7 on: June 02, 2017, 11:16:59 AM »
(Un)Fortunately I'm on the too skinny side of the scale, so fitting issues are quite apparent.
Demented Fairy, that's a great idea and seems the easiest fix. Here's a dumb question tho: any way (except hand sewing  :D) to sew the channel to the facing without pulling the waistband apart?

More or less the way toileandtrouble suggests for stay tape.  I'd unpick the bottom edge, and either slip narrow elastic as close the top edge as possible [having already joined it into a loop] then do a wide zig zag over it.  Put the facing back in shaped, and probably attach firmly at the side seams to stop it twisting.  The gathering would be on the inside, not messing up the skirt.  If you can access it easily, a similar thing with wide elastic would work, but I'd actually use some twill tape or bias tape to make a casing for it.
C'est moi!

Jo

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2017, 11:57:10 AM »
I expected I'd have to (at least partially) unpick again *sigh*.
Unfortunately I can't really join the elastic in a loop, as the waistband has a button closure. I wonder if it would be enough to sew it to the facing? Well, I could at least give it a try. If it doesn't work I can always rip it out again  0_0

Gernella

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2017, 11:58:13 AM »
I made a Vogue skirt like that although there was no waistband and it had a side zip.  I had to alter the pleats because it was too tight and I've never worn it because it makes my hips look way too big, being taller might have helped.

Now yours looks absolutely fine to me and does not look home made.   
Stash extension 2024- 6.1 meters
Left at the end of 2023 - 66 meters now (includes fabric found hidden out of sight)  Lining fabric not included

Surest1tch

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2017, 13:45:45 PM »
You could try putting a buttonhole inside the waistband and attaching a piece of elastic with a button sewn to it and pulling the waist in like that.  I know what I mean but it's difficult to explain on paper. If you have access to a pair of gents tailor made or boys school trousers you will be able to see what I mean.
Personally I'd just elasticate the whole waist, I never wear tops tucked in anyhow so no-one see's it. Oh dear is that a sign of age  :S

Francesca

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #11 on: June 02, 2017, 15:44:16 PM »
I wonder if you could get away with the elastic just on the back part, keeping the front as-is. Might help snug it into your waist a bit.

sewing in oz

Re: The skirt that will be the death of me
« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2017, 02:45:40 AM »
What a lovely skirt!  Gorgeous colour.

You don't need to join the elastic in a loop before inserting it into the band, if you are willing to accept a cheat fix  ;)  Here's a cheat you might like to try.  Sorry the post is so long - it takes far longer to type out than to do!  It assumes your band is open internally all the way along, that it closes with a buttonhole rather than a button loop, and that the buttonhole is already made.

You need to be able to open the end of the band at the button end, plus open part of the band at the buttonhole end.  You'll also need dental floss or other very strong smooth thread; and a strong tapestry or other blunt needle.  If you want to, before you start you can overlock or straight stitch or otherwise finish the cut ends of your elastic, but given how little strain there will be on the elastic in this skirt - it almost fits now so very little pulling on the elastic - I don't think I'd bother.

First, prepare the ends of your band, and the ends of your elastic.

For the band:  Remove the button and completely open the vertical edge of the band at that end.  Open the vertical edge of the other (buttonhole) end of the band as much as you reasonably can, remembering that what you open will need to be neatly closed.

For the front end of your elastic: You will need a *very* long length of dental floss; at least twice as long as your band, plus at least 40-50cm.  Using your tapestry needle, pass the floss into the elastic at one end, taking a generous (2-3cm) bite of the elastic.  Leaving the floss in the needle, tie the two ends of the floss off around the elastic end, using the strongest knot you know.  The floss should now form a very long loop, running through the eye of the tapestry needle and through the elastic.

For the tail end of the elastic:  Pass a loose loop of dental floss through one end of the elastic, taking a very generous bite (maybe 5-6cm) of the elastic.  Knot the two ends of the floss around the elastic.  You should now have a loop of floss, which will be your handle when finishing off.

Using the eye of the tapestry needle as a threader, thread the floss into the band from the button end of your band towards the buttonhole end, being very careful not to allow the eye to pass through any loose threads etc, as these will stop the elastic passing in the next step.  Once the needle eye is at the buttonhole end, pass it out the pre-opened section of the band.  The floss will emerge with the needle.  Find the knot in the floss, and make sure it's outside the band.  At this point, you should see the needle with the knot in the floss completely outside the band at the half-opened buttonhole end, while the elastic should be outside the band at the fully opened button end.  The elastic and the needle + knot are joined by the loop of floss you've just threaded through.

Holding both thicknesses of floss and using it as a "puller" from the buttonhole end, start working the elastic into the band from the button end.  Work the elastic past all the obstructions which will be put there solely to frustrate you (eg the side seams).  When the elastic reaches the inner end of the buttonhole, pin it firmly in place.  I use a safety pin for this; after all that work I don't want it moving till I've sewn the sucker down.  Don't sew it down yet.  Leave the long loop of floss hanging out for now, and move to the other end of the band.

The "handle" you put at the tail end before you started should still be hanging out the button end of the band, waiting for you.  Make sure the knot in the floss is outside the band.  Try the skirt on and adjust the length of elastic if needed.  You can use the handle as a "puller" until you get the elastic anchored at this end.  Once you're happy with the length of the elastic, safety pin this end in place.  Leave the loop of floss hanging for now.

Check to make sure you're happy with the placement of the elastic inside the band (not too close to one end or the other; not twisted etc).  Then stitch the ends of the elastic down.  I simply stitch it in place with a vertical line of machine straight stitching probably 1cm from each end of the elastic.  Close both ends of the band.  Replace the button.  Try the skirt on to be double sure that you're happy.  Only then and as the final step, cut both loops of floss and remove from the band (it should simply pull out).