The Sewing Place

Fitting Book Recommendation... please!

Acorn

Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« on: June 02, 2017, 13:53:29 PM »
I would like a nice, straightforward book on fitting clothes - one that simply says things like 'if your sleeve pulls in this way, look at altering this part'.  I'm not looking at fitting things perfectly - TBH I prefer a bit of looseness and disguise - but I'd like my shoulder seams to sit on top of my shoulders, and my sleeves to allow movement in all directions, necklines to not gape - you know the sort of thing.

I looked on Amazon - there are a LOT of them.  A lot of them look very scary.  Please help!
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Jo

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2017, 15:04:01 PM »
I have heard great things about this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fitting-Pattern-Alteration-Pottberg-Steineckert-Elizabeth/dp/1628929723/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1495204089&sr=1-2
I actually bought it, but hasn't arrived yet. It is expensive, but it does cover a lot of fitting issues. You can browse the TOC to see what it covers.

DaisyChain

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2017, 16:09:04 PM »
I looked on Amazon - there are a LOT of them.

Yes, you’re right there are a lot of them, (& copies of most of them are probably sitting on my book shelf  :o :o :o).

I have the book that Jo mentioned, Fitting and Pattern Alteration. Mine’s a second edition from 2010. It’s Ok, but for me I needed to read other alteration books before this one’s pattern changes made any sense! (Jo, I'd love to know your thoughts on your book when it arrives).We’re all different & some people probably only need this book while others prefer a different approach. For example, I know lots of folk really like the ‘fit for real people’ books but personally I’ve never been very successful with their paper pattern fitting method.

Any hooo, here’s a list of some of my current faves.....  8)

I quite like The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting.  Lots of photos of toiles being adjusted.  If you want a better idea of how to use toiles effectively this could be the one for you.

I also like ‘Threads Fitting for every Figure.’ This has lots of photographs & detailed diagrams to demonstrate how to alter the pattern pieces. This is usually my ‘go to’ book.

My latest addition to my fitting shelf is ‘Create the Perfect Fit’. This book concentrates on how to measure your body and then how to transfer these measurements to the precise part of each pattern piece.   This was a pressie so I thought I’d include it in the list. It’s very clearly set out with lots of photos and shows how to alter bodice, sleeve & skirt pattern pieces.  It doesn’t really cover trousers.

My all time favourite fitting read has got to be ‘How to make Clothes that Fit & Flatter’ by Adele P. Margolis. My copy dates back to the early 70s. The diagrams on how to alter your pattern are nowhere near as good as the other books I’ve mentioned but the author covers really important areas such as proportion and how to use a garment’s design lines when fitting. She also says things like just because you can alter something doesn’t mean you should!

Happy hunting for your perfect fitting book.

:fish:     :meow: 

Jo

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2017, 16:29:15 PM »
At some point while hunting for the book at a lower price, I got to a link on Amazon where I could browse most of the book (that's what actually made me fork out the money) - I have tried since to find it again, but no such luck :(
I find I function better with diagrams than with photos of actual muslins. I also dislike tissue fitting as I find it's too fiddly and inacurate. Now that I think about it, you do need to be comfortable with pattern alterations and/or drafting to use this book. I have been learning flat patternmaking and alterations for a few months now, so the diagrams and alterations did make a lot of sense to me.
I now remember I ordered another fitting book before this one (I think it's called The perfect fit), should arrive next week.
I also have The complete photo guide for perfect fitting, but as I said, not really happy with photos of muslins :)

DaisyChain

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2017, 16:48:28 PM »
Now that I think about it, you do need to be comfortable with pattern alterations and/or drafting to use this book. I have been learning flat patternmaking and alterations for a few months now, so the diagrams and alterations did make a lot of sense to me.

It sounds like this could be the perfect book for you.  8)

Jo

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2017, 17:18:02 PM »
Fingers crossed! Never spent so much on a book before, better be worth it  :D

Ohsewsimple

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2017, 17:36:44 PM »
I've got several fitting books including the one by Leichty and Rasband.  It,s very detailed and has some "problems" that aren't in other books.  For simplicity, easy to understand and beginners I think Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer is one of the best.  There is lots of info about tissue fitting.  But you don't have to use it for that.

lakaribane

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #7 on: June 02, 2017, 20:06:12 PM »
For simplicity, easy to understand and beginners I think Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer is one of the best.

I have both the Palmer/Pletsch and a Rasband, autographed, no less! I have to agree with OSS, if you are just starting, get the former. Once things start to make sense, get the latter.

I will also recommend making a toile of a basic garment, marking CF, CB, Bust, Waist, Hips etc. to visualize WHERE your body typically varies from the standard.

I love Burda and EU pattern magazines because they give so many measurements! Something the US Big4 and/or Indies can't seem to figure out yet.

Acorn

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2017, 21:54:39 PM »
Thank you everyone - I'm working my way through your suggestions.

Amazon, when I searched, offered me 'Chaotic Dynamics of Nonlinear Systems' which sounds bizarrely accurate!
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2017, 22:14:15 PM »
Thank you everyone - I'm working my way through your suggestions.

Amazon, when I searched, offered me 'Chaotic Dynamics of Nonlinear Systems' which sounds bizarrely accurate!

Hahahaha. I've no idea what that means but sounds right to me.

Marniesews

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2017, 13:06:19 PM »
I've got Sarah Veblen's, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting and I found it did help me in seeing the fitting issues more clearly - something that I've not always had a good eye for but I subsequently bought the Palmer Pletsch book and I think that has added greater understanding of the fitting alteration process particularly with the wide variety of figures that it covers.
Hopefully back more regularly! Ballroom sewing may be permanently paused but bag making is the current focus.

lakaribane

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #11 on: June 06, 2017, 17:07:45 PM »
Don't know if you like the plateform but Craftsy has Joi Mahon's Fast Track Fitting on sale for $12 usd

https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/classes/fast-track-fitting/35474

Acorn

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #12 on: June 06, 2017, 19:54:37 PM »
Thanks lakaribane - I have been wondering about that.  I'm not very keen on watching videos on my laptop - I'm generally happier learning from a book - but it does look very good, and good value.  My current truly lousy broadband speed means that I'm going to have difficulty in either downloading or watching anything online, although I hope that will be sorted out in a few weeks, and I expect I could buy now and keep it for later.

For the moment I have ordered two exceedingly cheap books, one produced by Singer, which has to come from the US.  I think they'll give me a better idea of what I'm looking for, even if it is because they don't provide it!
« Last Edit: June 06, 2017, 19:56:38 PM by Acorn »
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Hachi

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #13 on: June 07, 2017, 22:58:58 PM »
I have Sara Veblen's The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting and it's good.
If you like a simpler way, you might like Nancy Zieman's Pattern Fitting with Confidence. You can watch her "pivot and slide" technique in action here http://wpt.org/SewingWithNancy/Video/solving-pattern-fitting-puzzle-part-one.

lakaribane

Re: Fitting Book Recommendation... please!
« Reply #14 on: June 14, 2017, 14:21:12 PM »
Ok two visual ressources:

1) Alexandra Morgan @In-House Patterns on YT:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRB1MzYqaU7iDi0z1n9qMUQ

She's a pattern drafter and a teacher and you can hear that in her voice;

2) Nanna @HowToDoFashion patterns photo fitting guides
https://www.howtodofashion.dk/adjustments-guide-no1

https://www.howtodofashion.dk/alterations-guide-n05

She's a pattern drafter and teacher. Her guides are based on her patterns and show you both photos and drawings so you can see how to do the alterations.

Hope this helps!