The Sewing Place

Making your own patterns

Jo

Making your own patterns
« on: June 02, 2017, 18:14:46 PM »
Does anyone here make their own patterns?
I'm a very small size (sometimes even the smallest size from pattern companies is too big) but with a lot of issues: sway back, rounded shoulders, big bust (well, bigger than the B cup they use) but small torso and waist etc.
I only made 2 garments from Burda Style and they turned out HUGE, with gaping neckline, gaping armholes and a bunch of other fit issues.
I didn't even know where to start, so figured my best shot was to learn flat pattern making. So I did just that.
Will post details, just in case anyone is interested in my journey and what I learned. It's been about one year with a few months frustration break, but I'm finally at a point where I'm (almost) happy.
The first thing I got when I decided I would like to learn about patterns was to buy a book on the matter. So I got Metric pattern cutting for Women by Winifred Aldrich. While it is not a bad book, I find it's not a good book for a beginner. It's mostly instructions with very little explanations, and for me it's crucial to understand WHY I have to do a thing a certain way.
Made the sloper with the instructions from the book but found it's not as easy as I thought. Even tho I used correct measurements,  the sloper was not anywhere near perfect fitting. I did try to do some fitting, but because I had no experience, didn't even know where to start properly.
It was then I decided I need a tutor. There is nowhere here were I can take classes, so I browsed the internet and found Burda Style Academy. I'm going to tell you right now: don't waste your money.
While the instructor explained things reasonably well, you could only ask questions for three months, and the reply was soooo slow. I now recognize the blocks as those from Pattern Making for Fashion Design and will probably give them another try at some point. After making a few muslins and still having some issues - it is a single dart block and I ended with a huge dart, over 10 cm I think - and getting very frustrated in the process, I decided to have a little break.
In the mean time I did sew some skirts that didn't really require a pattern. I did some rookie mistakes but also learned a lot.
This year I discovered Craftsy has frequent sales and I didn't have to pay 70$ for Suzy Furrer's drafting classes, I could get them for 19.99 or less if I had a bit of patience.
So in the end I got all her classes. I love her way of teaching and the way she explains why you have to do things a certain way and when you can decide to do it differently. I have learned the most from her classes and love that she takes the time to answer everyone's questions (albeit sometimes it takes a few days).
I am very near a "perfect" sloper, I just have to bring myself to make a few more changes and sew another muslin. Meanwhile, I'm drafting patterns avoiding the issues I have and they turned out great so far.
I've attached pictures of my latest moulage (basically a sloper with no ease). I still have to lower the back shoulder because my back armhole is gaping a little, transfer the sway back adjustment to the pattern (I only made the adjustment on the muslin) and increase the armhole dart intake a little bit as I find there's a bit of extra fabric there.

I'd love to hear about your experiences or any tips/trick you might have and see the patterns you've drafted.

Efemera

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2017, 19:29:37 PM »
I can but I dont.....I really can't be bothered. I know where I need to alter existing patterns so it's just easier to use an existing one.

elephun

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2017, 19:44:52 PM »
You have done a fantastic job, Jo!

lakaribane

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2017, 19:55:11 PM »
I'm very interested in your journey. Tell me more!

I tried a BSA free course for a knit pencil skirt and realized she explains nothing about the hip curve. Of course, mine turned out all crazy but I could pin it on myself.

I did make a bodice block several years ago and took a really bad in-person course in my old neighborhood about twelve years ago.

I want to both draft and alter efficiently my patterns. The one mystery to me is where/how do you add fullness to take your bodice and make a jacket or a coat? Or is it a difference block altogether?

I also need someone to show me how exactly to use a "pistolet" or curved ruler or whatever to make the neckline, armscye, crotche or hip. How do you align this tool to get the "right" curve?

Anyway, feel free to go in as much detail as you wish on this topic. Professional Overthinker that I am, I will relish it.

DaisyChain

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2017, 20:04:25 PM »
I bought the Suzy Furrer bodice sloper course and was very impressed. I am small framed, high waisted & am more than a 'pattern sized' B cup so I usually have a bit of work to do before a pattern fits. (And, like you, that's presuming I can find one small enough in the first place. Don't get me started on how big a bust measurement some indie patterns start from. :angry:)

This course helped me ‘see’ a lot of fitting issues that I was struggling to address. I now place commercial tissue patterns on top of my 2D card moulage to a get an initial idea of potential fitting problems that can be corrected on the paper pattern before I start cutting out the toile. It also gives me a clear indication of the amount of ease in a design.

I’ve drafted simple skirts before but don’t think I have the confidence to draft a blouse.......  -<

Looking forward to reading how you get on.   8)

:gin:    :D



Ohsewsimple

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2017, 21:05:01 PM »
I've been drafting my own patterns for some years.  I started making virtually all my own clothes over 40 years ago as I am only 5 ft tall and it was almost impossible to get anything to fit.
I started dabbling with patterns with some books on my own and then did a basic class.  The tutor said I ought to do City and Guilds so when I had some free time I did that.  I was lucky in that my second tutor was a very clever pattern cutter.  I learned so much from her but years later I am still learning. 
I don't draft from a block now.  I have various patterns that have been done over the years and I redraft from them.  So tops become dresses and vice versa.  Sleeves and necklines change. I have recently been making some of these simple tops that are just made from rectangles of fabric.  I was tempted to try them from some instructions.  In the end I used my own top so that I could replicate my shoulder slope and shoulder point position.  Very pleased with the result.
Making your own patterns is fascinating, can be frustrating and often rewarding.

Jo

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2017, 08:29:51 AM »
Efemera, yes, but that implies buying, or at least owning some patterns :)
Do you make major fit adjustments or just design ones? I wouldn't mind making design alterations, but would find it too tedious to have to do the same fit adjustments every time and not being sure it fits properly in the end.

lakaribane for the jacket/coat you could use a different block, or you could use the basic sloper and just add extra ease at the sides. I think there's no golden rule and some adjustments fit some better than others. You could also use a block with princess lines (as in, alter your basic block and add princess lines to it) and then you could add ease along the princess lines as well. It really depends on what you are aming for. There are a few other changes when you make a jacket block, besides adding ease, like dropping the armhole a little, extending the shoulder and the cross back (cross back is usually half the amount you extended your shoulder) and drawing a new armhole.
 I tend to favour clothes that are either very fitted or very loose. The in-betweens...not so much.
Regarding the french curve and/or the hip curve, they're very simple to use. When you draft a bodice for example, you have some guide points you need to reach. For the armhole that would be: shoulder point, across back and side seam. There is another point to help you with the more curved part that is in between the across back and side seam. Same for the neckline.
Here is an image taken from the internet:
Points I am talking about are U for the neckline and Y/L for the armhole. They are usually industry standard guidelines, but the block instructions you are using should mention.
You then take the french curve and do your best to make a smooth curve that goes through all the points. Sometimes, if you're not close to industry standard, you can't draw a nice shape, but there are a few work arounds for that (for example, move across back guideline higher/lower, but it really is a case by case situation). Also, don't expect to go through all the points in one go. It doesn't really matter which part of the curve you use, as long as you get a nice curve. You move it as much as you need :)

DaisyChain, Suzy's a great teacher, isn't she? I love that in her later classes she included instructions on how to draft almost anything (I think her Creative sleeves class has the most instructions on this).
Haven't tried indie patterns, mostly because I didn't want to pay for pattern + shipping and then not be able to use it.
I was also thinking of using my sloper to make changes to patterns, but that's probably only going to be on the Burda Style magazine ones :) As I really can't be bothered to buy patterns. I'm confident enough to do most changes on my own sloper. I'm not sure, but I think the major challenge with making commercial patterns is being able to achieve a good enough fit for a majority of people of different sizes.
Having taken Suzy's other classes (Creative darts and seamlines, Collars and closures and Creative necklines), I've learned a lot how to recognize and replicate how different designs are made. I do like to make excercises using mini sloper blocks: I'll pick a design in Burda Style magazine and do my best to make the pattern for it. I then check the actual burda pattern to see what/where I've missed the mark.
I still have some trouble when it comes to truing and balancing patterns after I've made fit adjustments but I bought Fitting and Pattern alterations, hopefully that will shed some light.
No need to have loads of confidence to draft a blouse. You really do learn what works and what doesn't by doing (hence my numerous muslins). I buy fabric made for sheets, it's cheap and I really don't feel sorry for it.

Ohsewsimple you are my hero! :) I'd love to reach a point where I can draft all my own clothes. Not because I can't find things that fit, but because most stores now sell utter garbage! I was on a trip about a month ago, and the weather suddenly got a lot warmer, so I needed to buy a blouse. I just couldn't believe the crappy fabrics that were everywhere. And when I actually did find something I liked, after looking at the price I scoffed and said "With this amount of money I could buy fabric and make 5 of these".
Maybe you could share a few pictures of your patterns? :)

Just wanted to add a picture of a sort-of cardigan I made. The fabric is a lovely suedette (that has been kind of a pain to work with) and I managed to cut it pretty well so I left the edges unfinished, I find it looks better like this.
If you look closely, you can see my back armhole is a little too big. I did see that before drafting and sewing the sleeve but thought it wouldn't be so noticeable after I put the sleeve in. Well, guess again! :)
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApLXALbqtK6nlBZvPwFtjA9qk8ih
« Last Edit: June 03, 2017, 08:33:44 AM by Jo »

Missie

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2017, 10:27:31 AM »
I just couldn't believe the crappy fabrics that were everywhere. And when I actually did find something I liked, after looking at the price I scoffed and said "With this amount of money I could buy fabric and make 5 of these".

And therein lies the perils of making your own clothes  :D

I can make my own patterns but haven't done for years.  I did a C&G in pattern cutting and used Helen Stanley Flat Pattern Cutting book but another baby and 15 years later, I need to remake my blocks but just haven't got round to it. Really I should as every pattern I use needs major changes: FBA, bodice lengthening, darts dropping; by the time I've fiddled with it all, I must just as well have done my own pattern.

Have to say that yours looks great.

Efemera

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2017, 19:08:58 PM »
I have favourite pattern designers so I buy those and make adjustments... I'm really bone idle and a sewing slut. I don't make heirloom items, if they last a few seasons that's fine... however I am a perfectionist so I love good fabrics and finishes.

Surest1tch

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #9 on: June 03, 2017, 19:15:04 PM »
I can but really, really hate doing them for myself.

Marniesews

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #10 on: June 03, 2017, 19:54:27 PM »
I've bought Natalie Bray books, read and watched tutorials but come across nothing better for someone like me with no background in drafting than Suzy Furrer's Craftsy lessons either. I'm not yet making much for me as my body is changing a lot at the moment but I've still benefited from greater understanding of pattern drafting using it to amend style lines and shapes of other patterns for my DGD.

Sadly Suzy's course only covers knits at a very basic level so I've since invested in Julie Coles' Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics which is excellent and I hope to be drafting knit slopers soon. Having had no other training, I don't think I'd have got so much out of it without having learned the basics from Suzy Furrer's classes.
Hopefully back more regularly! Ballroom sewing may be permanently paused but bag making is the current focus.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2017, 21:42:16 PM »
[quote author=lakaribane link=topic=1300.msg19016#msg19016 date=1496429711
I want to both draft and alter efficiently my patterns. The one mystery to me is where/how do you add fullness to take your bodice and make a jacket or a coat? Or is it a difference block altogether?

I also need someone to show me how exactly to use a "pistolet" or curved ruler or whatever to make the neckline, armscye, crotche or hip. How do you align this tool to get the "right" curve?
[/quote]

There are different blocks avail for coats etc.  But quite honestly that is a waste of time.  I was taught to adapt my original block.  You have already put in a lot of work to get it to fit.  If you do a new block you will be starting over again.  Using the original block and enlarging it, you already have all your figure adjustments made.  I have info on adjustments for blouses, jackets and coats if you are interested. 
Using the curve is just a matter of moving it around until you find the appropriate curve.  Alternatively you can freehand draw if you want. 

Ohsewsimple

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2017, 21:56:16 PM »
Quote from: JMaybe you could share a few pictures of your patterns[/quote

Hahaha.  Well they are never very neat.  But these are some recent ones.  First one is an asymmetrical  drapey top.  Made in black sparkly poly chiffon with a simple vest type lining.  It has a short overlay on one side.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #13 on: June 03, 2017, 22:03:23 PM »
A knit tunic with a curved back hem and elbow length sleeves.  Sleeve pattern not shown.
And a very simple top in poly chiffon with a cotton lawn lining.  Front and back similar but shoulder line is different to accommodate my forward shoulders. 

Jo

Re: Making your own patterns
« Reply #14 on: June 04, 2017, 07:42:47 AM »
Ohsewsimple, those are great! I have to make some loose fitting blouses for myself, as they are just so comfortable to wear.
My shoulder line is different as well (also forward shoulders) and just couldn't understand in the beginning how to true the pattern while accomodating this issue. Well, a bit later I found out that you don't :) Sometimes it's ok if the seam angles don't match 100%, as long as they are the same lenght.

Marniesews I too think those classes have helped me understand patternmaking better, so now I can read and understand any pattern drafting book without any problems, and don't actually need written instructions, just diagrams are enough.
The book you mentioned seems very interesting (took a peek at the TOC). I have an older book on patternmaking for knits, also from Fairchild books, by Keith Richardson. Doesn't have stellar reviews, but I can make do :)

Another problem I stumbled into was having a little jog at the side seams after sewing. I just couldn't understand where the error was. In the end, I figured out that you have to make sure that you either have a 90 degree angle where the side seam meets the hem, or, if that's not possible, you make sure the front runs smoothly into the back.