The Sewing Place

Fitting and ease

b15erk

Fitting and ease
« on: June 05, 2017, 11:10:10 AM »
Or something else completely? ....

I've made a few garments lately, and tbh, getting a bit disheartened by the results.  Sometimes the shoulders are huge, sometimes the body looks like a ship in sail, sometimes the sleeves are too tight, sometimes too long, sometimes too short...

How do I figure out what is ease, what is just too big, and what is a design feature?

On one pattern I made recently using my measurements, I was a size 16, but the shoulders were about 3" too wide.  I've just measured up for a Vogue pattern, and that is coming up as a size 22!  Go figure!

Any tips for getting a good looking garment?

Jessie

Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Jo

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2017, 11:23:21 AM »
Just measure the pattern :)
First you need to measure yourself. I would say you need at least:
 - shoulder lenght (from neck to end of clavicle; if you cannot feel the end of your clavicle, you can measure to the point were your underarm line would meet your shoulder)
- bust (+ underbust if your measurements differ significantly)
- waist
- hips
- front lenght (from point in between clavicles to waist)
- back lenght ( from poking bone on bottom neck - sorry, dunno what it's called :D but it sort of pokes out on everyone to waist)
You then measure on your pattern or use the finished measurements if they are written on the pattern.
Bust guide is usually a line squared from center front to end of armhole. The measurement on the pattern should be your measurement + ease (normal ease is between 2.5 and 5 cm, some people like more, some like less). What is over this is design ease (you can check the drawings on the envelope for how loose the garment is supposed to fit and if you would like to add/substract ease). Same for waist and hips (hips usually have a bit more ease to allow you to sit down).
Front lenght/back lenght and shoulder seams are a little bit more tricky to measure because of design.
You could measure on yourself and pattern from shoulder point at neck to bust line and from bustline to waist, but I find this is not always accurate.

Most times, when you draft a pattern using your own measurements, you still have to do a lot of fitting, because we are moving people not dress stands and have different issues and volume distributions.
You could also try drafting and fitting your own sloper and using that to alter commercial paterns.

Francesca

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2017, 11:25:01 AM »
Actual measurement of the pattern is the best way. And comparing the finished garment measurements alongside the ease charts on the website (if using Big4, they list them).

If you know your back shoulder measurement then you can measure the pattern and see how man inches of ease it's going to have.

Francesca

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2017, 11:25:36 AM »
poking bone on bottom neck - sorry, dunno what it's called :D

Nape :)

b15erk

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2017, 11:36:34 AM »
Jo, I do measure the pattern, and I do make a toile if the garment looks as if it requires it, but I think even the difference between toile fabric, and fashion fabric can make a garment look, and hang differently.

Fran, I do measure, but never sure if the measurement incorporates ease, and how much.  Thanks for the heads up about ease, I'll check on the website.

I think sometimes, I'm making stuff that just doesn't suit me....  :(

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Francesca

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2017, 11:46:20 AM »
You should be able to tell whether it has ease by comparing the body size measurement to the actual garment measurement. E.g if the size 20 says 40" waist, and the waist on the garment = 44", then you know there's 4" of ease.

b15erk

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2017, 12:13:12 PM »
Fran, I may be overthinking this, but if a pattern measures 40" waist inc ease, and it's too tight, then to get it to fit 'properly', I would need to add the inches needed plus ease?  I think to do that kind of fitting alteration would change the style of the garment?  Not very clear I know, and I may well be overthinking this.  :S

Or, I may have just made some duff pattern choices :)

Jessie

Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Didi

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2017, 12:17:28 PM »

- back lenght ( from poking bone on bottom neck - sorry, dunno what it's called :D but it sort of pokes out on everyone to waist)


Spinous process of seventh cervical vertebrae or C7  0_0 0_0

Sorry the radiography clinical Tutor in me coming out there  0_0

That's a really useful list thank you

Jo

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #8 on: June 05, 2017, 12:19:02 PM »
Yes, that is correct. Either go with a larger size or, if not aplicable, just add difference to get to your measurement + desired ease.
The style of the garment should not change too much if it is not a major difference, but it will fit you :)
Didi...erm, yes, that :D

lakaribane

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #9 on: June 05, 2017, 12:40:45 PM »
No expert but wearing ease ie Can You Move and Breathe in This Thing? is at least 5-6 cm at the bust, 1-2cm at the Waist and 10cm at the Hips, at least that is what I noticed for Burda.

This is coherent with advice I read somewhere about measuring your hips while seated, holding the tape loosely so it spreads with your hips, to get the minimal ease for comfort.

We're talking wovens, of course. As Burda is usually quite fitted, unless the design is loose and oversized (current trends), this is more or less what I see.

I don't measure patterns as a rule, since I sew Burda and their patterns are usually very standardized but I agree with what has been said before: you need complete body measurements and eventually the finished garment measurements/patttern piece measurements to figure out your sizing.

Tamnymore

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2017, 13:34:12 PM »
Measuring waist and hips when sitting down is important. For some of us, at least, certain areas seem to spread while seated.  ;)
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Ohsewsimple

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #11 on: June 05, 2017, 14:21:01 PM »
Jessie I do think you're overthinking this a bit.  Regardless of whether it is wearing or design ease, think about how wide YOU want this garment to be.  Measuring the patterns is imperative before cutting into them.  How else do you know if it's going to have enough room in the first place?
Yes, fabric does make a huge difference.  So if you have used a stuff fabric for the toile and then make it in a softer fabric it will hang differently. You should always choose a toile fabric that echoes the finished fabric.  No good using calico and then working in chiffon.  It may seem as if you are always buying fabric for the purpose but it can actually save you in the long run. 
As far as style is concerned, I have a bit of s short cut that helps.  I'm at work at the moment but will try and out info up tonight.

b15erk

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #12 on: June 05, 2017, 14:43:55 PM »
I think a lot of it is overthinking OSS, and maybe poor pattern choices.

I did the toile only to check out the modesty factor at the top edge and the length, but had I done it in a similar fabric, I would have realised that it wasn't a flattering pattern on me!

Maybe there's a reason why this pattern is mainly nightwear!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

JillH

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #13 on: June 05, 2017, 14:57:22 PM »
I was watching this recently- on how to alter a pattern by pivot and slide method

Sewing With Nancy http://wpt.org/SewingWithNancy/Video/solving-pattern-fitting-puzzle-part-one
Jill -  trying to grow old disgracefully.

Efemera

Re: Fitting and ease
« Reply #14 on: June 05, 2017, 15:24:46 PM »
All patterns and designers are different.. with Marcy Tilton I have to go down a size or two but with others I might have to go up a size.