The Sewing Place

Making a tailored jacket

dolcevita

Making a tailored jacket
« on: June 10, 2017, 22:22:28 PM »
When TSF closed, a lot of useful reference content was lost, which was a shame.  By request, I had loaded on a blow-by-blow account of making a tweed type jacket using a mostly speed tailoring techniques with plenty of photos to illustrate the process.

I came across the photos a couple of days ago and thought they would make a useful reference for anyone here who would like to see a jacket being constructed.  I'm making up some photo albums of the useful stuff in google photos (thanks to Fran & Iminei on the tech hints for this) with comments attached to the photos and below in the albums.

Here's a link to the first album, detailing a couple of bits about the pattern and lining up the check for it.

For information, it's a pattern from an old Burda magazine, February 2011 pattern 108.  The fabric used is a wool mix tweed and crepe satin lining, all from Fabricland.  The fusible is weft insert. I used tailoring shoulder pads and the jacket is trimmed with petersham ribbon.

I'll post links to the albums into this thread as and when I have compiled them.

Here's the finished jacket, albeit a bit lopsided as it only has 1 shoulder pad in.


dolcevita

Re: Making a tailored jacket
« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2017, 22:25:01 PM »
Here's the link to the first album:

https://goo.gl/photos/dp6Rx3gQQ33ZT2Kw6
« Last Edit: June 11, 2017, 10:11:36 AM by dolcevita »

dolcevita

Re: Making a tailored jacket
« Reply #2 on: June 10, 2017, 22:53:37 PM »
Here's the album dealing with the application of the fusible and more marking.

The main thing to note about the fusible is that before applying, I always trim it so that it sits within the edges of the pieces to be fused.  This is because I really hate when it invariably goes over the edge of the fabric and get bits stuck to the ironing board and press cloth.  Also, with a fabric like this that frays easily, if you pull away the fused fabric and it is overlapped it can pull and distort the edge of the fabric.

There are many ways to mark the important lines on your fabric and it can vary according to what you're making and what fabric you're using.  There are no hard and fast rules - if it works for you, stick with it.  For this project, I've used a lot of chalk marking.  By far the most important chalk marks are the blue dots, marking corners, dart apexes and important notches such as where the collar attaches to the lapels.  Different colours are great, but bear in mind that coloured chalk can be difficult to remove from light fabrics.  If you're marking a pale fabric that is more lightweight, and ordinary graphite pencil is great for this job as it washes away easily.

A note on thread marking - it doesn't need to be done with tiny stitches or any particular thread.  Use what you have and what you can see easily.

The trimmed collar piece is the undercollar.  You can see where I've trimmed away a scant few millimetres from the outer edge, and this is to account for the turn of the cloth effect which is more important the thicker your fabric is. 

Here's the album:

https://goo.gl/photos/ATHHBBidZmVhyZFQ8

« Last Edit: June 11, 2017, 10:12:48 AM by dolcevita »

Morgan

Re: Making a tailored jacket
« Reply #3 on: June 13, 2017, 15:02:03 PM »
love all the different muted tones in that fabric.


lovely straight forward photos
great reference Rowley style and you're so right about 'do what works for you'