The Sewing Place

Trouser fitting for a pear shape

dolcevita

Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« on: June 15, 2017, 09:02:12 AM »
I thought this may be useful for other pear-shaped gals out there.

I need some new trousers and have put on a few pounds since I last fitted my basic trouser pattern, so I need to adjust it to accommodate my increased curves.  Although I could just add to the outer seams, I never find this very satisfactory as its my entire hip/bottom area that carries additional weight, not just the outside hip/thigh area.

Bear in mind that I have already fitted this pattern to my not-quite-so-fat pear shape so it doesn't need drastic alteration from my original.  It does from the original magazine pattern.

For starters, you can see quite clearly that this will not be a wearable toile.  I like to be very clear about where I need to alter things and my favourite for this is to write on it with a nice, dark, permanent felt tip.  Definitely not wearable.  I dragged an old piece of plain cotton from my stash.  This is my favourite fabric for toiles as it has reasonable body, isn't too expensive, it's plain and easy to write on.  By having a mid-range colour, I can see both white chalk and felt pen (except blue in this case!).

My paper pattern has no seam allowances.  I rarely put seam allowances onto paper patterns that I trace as it's more accurate without and easy enough to add them on when cutting out fashion fabric, so the inner line you can see is the original stitching line.

I always mark my straight grain line as soon as possible.  If you plan to use this as a pattern, which is the whole point, you need to know where this runs.  Don't be shy with that felt tip.

These are the changes I've made:

1. added a smidge extra at the outer hip, approx 1cm.  This will give me an additional 4cm around here once I've mirrored it on the front.
2. scooped out the back crotch seam.  This is an essential alteration for pear-shapes/big bottoms.  A bigger bottom means a deeper curve and will make these trousers a whole lot more comfortable.
3. added extra height at the centre back waist.  Again, by the time the seat of my trousers has curved all the way around my ample behind, it can run a little short here.  I'm not sure how much I need to extend it yet, so I've added plenty and will adjust once I fit the toile on me.

You can see that I've added nice wide allowances all around the pattern - better to be generous at this stage than mess around with sewing bits together if you don't have to.

I'll post the next stage this evening, sadly work beckons now.

SkoutSews

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2017, 15:45:09 PM »
This thread is going to be very useful as it addresses the issues that I've had in fitting trousers. Thanks!

Ohsewsimple

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2017, 20:01:23 PM »
Nice shaped top for a pear shape with the sloping CB seam.  So many patterns have quite a straight seam which doesn't work so well. 
I see you've also added to the inseam which is also a must for anyone with an 'ample behind' as you put it.  :P.  Jeez I am an expert on that! :)

dolcevita

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2017, 21:09:44 PM »
I know what you mean, OSS - I get more expert every year!  This is a good basic pattern for me - the original is a Burda magazine draft, though I can't remember which one now having re-worked it so many times.

Here's a pic of the front draft - nothing very exciting, I'm afraid.  I've added 1cm to both the inner and outer leg seams, to mirror what I did on the front.  Generally, the front is more straight forward than the back.  Having said that, I will need to watch that I don't end up with a baggy crotch.  It neither sounds nor looks elegant!  There is a possibility that by increasing the leg width, the front crotch length will be too big and this can cause ugly wrinkles around the front.

A few measuring tips may be helpful if you're new to fitting trousers.  I always measure the circumference of the very top of my thighs and compare to the pattern before even looking at the scissors.  One reason I do this is because I know that my right thigh is significantly bigger, by about 4cm than my left.  I usually add a bit extra to the width at the top of the leg to account for this, so that I have the same amount of ease for each leg, rather than one side looking tighter/looser.

I also measure the hip circumference of the trousers.  It's easier to post a photo of where this is, but it's at the base of the hip area before the trouser piece curves off into the upper leg (I continue the centre front line down to reference the front).

Next up is tacking the bits together for a size check.


dolcevita

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2017, 21:31:13 PM »
Another quick tip for transferring stitching lines and other markings. 

I want to keep all my felt pen notes on the outside of the toile but need to have the new stitching lines on the inside.  I use chalk paper (Prym) and a tracing wheel for this, folding the chalk paper in two and sliding it between the 2 layers of the trouser piece.  Going over the lines firmly with the wheel easily transfers the marks to the inside.

Photos to illustrate.

dolcevita

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2017, 22:11:56 PM »
Okay, all tacked and tried on.  The fit is generally good, but I need a little more height at the centre back waistline.  I've already added a good 2.5 - 3 cm here, but will add another 1cm.  It's surprising how much extra length this seam needs, but then when I think of gaping waistlines on shop-bought trousers, perhaps I shouldn't be.  I will also pinch out 1.5cm in the back darts to bring the contour in closer to my waistline.

I'm not going to make the adjustment to the toile, as I'll transfer everything to paper now, but here's my 'note to self' for the waist change.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #6 on: June 15, 2017, 22:17:46 PM »
That's all really interesting, thank you.  Any idea how to allow for a huge tummy as well as a huge bum?  Would I need to extend the crotch line on the front?  I presume so.  I generally cheat slightly and use stretch denim or gabardine for trousers so the fit is slightly less critical!

dolcevita

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #7 on: June 15, 2017, 22:51:39 PM »
It depends on where you need the extra space.  For example, youthful big bums probably ride higher than my middle-aged rear spread and this is why I need all the extra at the low hip and top of thighs.  For a full tummy, I would make the toile as well as you can with initial paper adjustments, then (literally) slash it open, spread and underlap with fabric to give you the space you need.  You can measure till the cows come home, but sometimes its quicker and easier to use fabric and eyeball it.

I've done a quick scribble to show how I'd alter a pattern for this.  If you use the slash and spread method, it throws the centre front line off the straight grain.  This is easy to correct - straighten it up, measuring how much you've taken off that seam then add it back at the side seam.

There may well be more effective ways to do this, but this is the approach that I would use.

dolcevita

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2017, 08:07:18 AM »
The trousers that I want to make with my newly fitted toile are a modified version of these trousers from a Burda magazine of last year.  I really like the pocket detail and the hem panels at the bottom so I'm adding these on as I transfer the fabric toile to a paper pattern.

I have some rich khaki silk/cotton mix that I bought from Ditto Fabrics a few years ago.  I originally bought it thinking that I would make DH some trousers from it.  Fortunately, I never told him of my intentions and I now think it would look much better on me and go very well with some cotton blouse fabric I've just bought.  Bad girl.

BajaSusana

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #9 on: June 20, 2017, 15:25:16 PM »
This is so timely!
 I am an hourglass wth much the same fitting issues.
 A few years back, I spent the better part of a summer and small fortune working with Sarah Veblen and her Eureka Pants That Fit pattern.
 I achieved a beautiful fit. I sewed and swed, pants, Capris and shorts. Then suddenly the garments that I made were too small. I had gained weight.
I am now back to the weight ( or actually a little less and dropping) I was when I drafted the pattern. But I nvere traced it, I just used and abused it.
 I sent for a new pattern, paid for some consultations with Sarah and have TRACED the pattern. Cut it out and transferred all markings to the fabric.
 I am ready to sew my first mock-up.
 Here is what the cut and marked fabric looks like:


No fair counting squares on the mat to figure out my hips size! You can see an elongated back crotch curve. We actually made it deeper and longer the first go round. The horizontal balance lines help to see it there are any high hips or other anomalies.
 And the grain lines and dart lines are drawn in.
 I will be sewing shortly and take the first fitting photos without darts. Nothing has been changed from the basic pattern yet!
This will be an interesting thread for us all!
 

dolcevita

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #10 on: June 20, 2017, 16:37:14 PM »
Nice work, Susan.  Interesting that you seem to need the upward curve on the outer hip edge rather than the centre back, as I do.  Watching your progress with interest!

b15erk

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #11 on: June 21, 2017, 09:13:55 AM »
I wish there was a way to save threads as 'favourites'......

Loads of valuable information here - when I get round to making the next batch of trousers!!

Thanks for starting it DV.  :)

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

BajaSusana

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #12 on: June 21, 2017, 23:19:39 PM »

So I have sewn my mock-up, my Beloved took photos and I have sent them to Sarah Veblen.
 I am posting front and back views. 
Trust me that when we are done, these pants will fit beautifully and I will be able to churn out pants, Capris and shorts.
 Remember I said that I abused the original pattern, gained weight, and now have LOST weight and working hard on losing more.
I am not  blessed with a long, lean model's figure. I have always been an extreme hourglass.
 So here are my photos.
The back is open where the zipper should go.
 You can already tell that I need more room in the back crotch.
 I  will keep chronicling this journey, unless you do not want to watch.
Please let me know.
It is important that  we can see that less than perfect figures can achieve a perfect fit.

And here is the front

Off to siesta!


 

Vegegrow

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #13 on: June 22, 2017, 08:02:12 AM »
Do continue its interesting to see the different alterations you both make... My problem is a big tummy and waist with deep back and very flat bum .. I've only made trousers once and that was taking apart a RTW pair that fit to use as a pattern..  :\
"The only place where housework comes before needlework is in the dictionary." ~Mary Kurtz

dolcevita

Re: Trouser fitting for a pear shape
« Reply #14 on: June 23, 2017, 08:10:26 AM »
Again, looking good Susan.  For a first mock-up, that fit is really good. 

Where do you feel adjustments are needed at this stage?

I've been too busy at work for any sewing this week, but may well return to my trousers tonight.  The deep V I need at the centre back has had an interesting effect on the appearance of the back darts - will post a couple of pics this evening.