Trouser fitting for a pear shape

[BajaSusana]

Dolcevita!
 I am following Sarah's instructions carefully.  I have taken IN both CF and CXB 3/8" blending down to nothing at the top Horizontal Balance Line (HBL)
 I have been feeling very unappreciated, feeling that my efforts to stick to my weight loss regime were not noticeable.
 But this time around we are TAKING IN both front and back. You can see the improvement with thes small changes. Sarah believes in small increments.
 BTW I do not work for her, nor reciev and compensation.
 I just know how emotionally  draining it is to try to fit pants.
here is the back with the changes:

And now the front.
 We have not even draped in the darts! The legs need narrowing.
And here is the front.
Tiny increments; big changes

 I am doing the pants while also trying to complete my outfit for the Sewing with Lace Contest on PR. Happy Weekend to all!

[Catllar]

Im following this thread with interest, but as I've nothing helpful to say Im keeping quiet. Not making pants at the moment. Far too hot to be struggling with toiles etc.  Your both looking good!

[Surest1tch]

Do continue its interesting to see the different alterations you both make... My problem is a big tummy and waist with deep back and very flat bum .. I've only made trousers once and that was taking apart a RTW pair that fit to use as a pattern.. 

I've got exactly the same problem, I got the style arc flat bottom trousers pattern.  I don't like the way the leg seams hang to be honest but after a bit of pattern altering it's getting me there, bit more fiddling with the pattern and I suspect I'll get them so they look right.

[dolcevita]

Coming on nicely, Susan.

Perhaps it would be a good idea for another thread with trouser fitting for flat bottoms - equally challenging in different directions.

In the meantime, I've tacked my trousers together and have had to take some more in at the centre back waist.  All that taking in at the CB waist has taken its toll on the geometry at the back, meaning that I now have some really silly looking darts that I need to re-position.  Not a big deal, but necessary. 

Cue silly dart photo:

[BajaSusana]

Hola a Todos! I was waiting for Sarah's marching orders after my last pinning job. I had to make a second mock-up. I spent a day and a half engaged in work avoidance. I am very good at that! The markings take a long time. The idea is to be perfectly accurate or why bother?
 So yesterday I made the mock up based on the pinning that you saw in my last photos. I also scooped the back crotch by 1/2".
 The progress is amazing. I hope the next changes do the trick. I  do not want to think about making a third mock up.
Here is mock-up #2 front and back, I have actually transferred these changes onto the velum pattern. My original tissue is nicely folded in it's envelope.


And the back. Note, the darts are not yet draped in.

This is a lot of work. But I know that at the end of the process I will have perfectly fitting pants!

[Vegegrow]

Really enjoying this thread .. this toile looks good to me .. but what do I know?   One day someday I'll make some trousers 
ps Congratulations on your 2nd place BajaSusanna

[BajaSusana]

These photos are two different pinning sessions the first are tweaks suggested by Sarah. But after pinning she  decieded we went too far!

This photo shows that we made the darts too wide and they are causing the grain lines to curve.

This is the back with the darts  reduced by half.

BTW this is my second mock up. I made changes to my pattern and made this second mock up. I am hoping that I will not have to do a third. It is hard work. But the end result will be worth it.

Now the front.
 Sarah felt I tapered the front too much right at the bottom Horizontal Balance Line (HBL)

And here is the front  from this morning with the new pinning. Also it took me awhile to figure out  that I should use safety pins!

There are some other alterations that need to be done, but the crotch curve is first and most important.
I will keep you posted.
 I do not have a sewing buddy. My Beloved help with pinnijng and taking photos. He is not feeling well right now, so I ave to wait for him to be  in the mood!
He is so very patient.

[Lyn-J]

I read with interest. Not easy fitting trousers is it!
I've commented om my fitting experience on this. s thread http://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,1622.0.html. It's not nearly as detailed as here though.
I followed the Vogue Fitting Shell 1003. One thing I did find useful is trying on half a pair of trousers. You can see exactly what is going on with the crotch and inner leg seam, which is exactly where I needed to make adjustments.

[dolcevita]

I admire your tenacity, Susan!  I keep promising myself that, one day, I will make myself blocks for everything but it will have to wait until life stops getting in the way.

Once you have completed your block, what is first on your list of trousers to sew?

Lyn - follow whatever method works best for you.  I've tried a few different methods and often end up using bits of each to suit my preference.  I do find that fitting works best for me with both legs, though.

[BajaSusana]

DV it is a big commitment  of time and money.
But I want well-fitting pants.
 I will be making linen pants in black, white and pink. Then shorts and Capris.
I hope we make more progress in the next few days.  Need new bottoms!

[BajaSusana]

LJ... I know what you are going through. But good for you making the journey.
 When I try a new pattern, I often make just half of the garment. Making half a pair of pants is interesting.
Will you be showing photos of your progress?
 It will help all of us!
 Looking forward to seeing more.

[Lyn-J]

Will you be showing photos of your progress?

If you think I'm going to stand there in my knickers with half a pair of trousers on .... 

I will try to photograph what I'm doing, the main fitting part is already done.
For anyone with fitting issues, do consider buying into a fitting system/pattern, worth it for the outlay if you get a perfect pair trousers.

I was watching an episode of Project Runway last night and heard "We are used to fitting models and now we have to fit real people and we don't know how to do it" DUH!!!! 

[b15erk]

Susana, your patience is amazing!  I must say, if I find a pair of trousers which fit, I do tend to make a coupe of pairs.  But, what I have found, is that even though I've used the same pattern, same size, same seam allowances, the fabric itself can make a difference to the fit.

Jessie

[BajaSusana]

B15erk,
 I make most of my bottoms from linen and quilting cotton, so the fit remains the same.
But fabric will make a difference. In a well fitted pair of pants that difference should be minimal.
Or so the theory goes...

[BajaSusana]

Hola a Todos!
 My last photos were terrible. I knew that something was wrong. Sarah  nailed it.
She said the pants were not sitting right on  my body and the HBLs were off.
 So by just ensuring that the waiust was sitting correctly, and having My Beloved adjust everything so that the HBLs were level, this is where I am today with the pants. Almost perfect. But we have to do something with the right leg front and back.
Here is the front

And here is the back. Notice the wrinkles in the right leg pulling towards the inseam. And that the grain line is a little off.

I think (and HOPE) the next tweak will be the final.