The Sewing Place

Help me make my origami top wearable

Jo

Help me make my origami top wearable
« on: June 26, 2017, 07:40:54 AM »
So I've made the origami top for the Japanese challenge. First try on me and I knew why I'd never seen one of these actually worn.
It looked really nice with tucks, except for two problems:
- created WAY too much ease, so it looked two sizes too big from the bustline up.
- even the slightest movement caused the tucks to unfold and the effect was lost.
Best thing I could come up to was to topstitch the darn things in place. Which I did (only basted them and wasn't super careful, that's why some of them don't look so neat). But because scuba is rather thick and doesn't crease all that well, I'm left with little puckers at the end. The darts that incorporate my bust darts are the worst, I'm left with pointy boobies  :\
I don't think there's any way of covering those two, as my bust dart are quite large and if I manipulate them all into just one dart there's always going to be a pucker (or maybe I'm not skilled enough yet).
The only option I see is to cover them somehow. Maybe some ruffles or something? Any ideas?

ps: dress form ended up with bust line a tad lower than my actual bust line, that's why it looks a bit odd.
Original, with tucks:

And topstitched:

« Last Edit: June 26, 2017, 07:42:53 AM by Jo »

dolcevita

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #1 on: June 26, 2017, 07:53:55 AM »
Such a lovely effect.

I wonder if you could achieve what you want with some judicious hand sewing rather than top stitching; top stitching has a tendency to nail things down very firmly and squish the life out of them sometimes.

If it were mine, I'd try this.  First, take out the top stitching.  With the front of the top facing you (your top picture) gently lift the bottom right corner to show where the first tuck is.  Hand sew this to the layers beneath for about 10 cm or however much is needed to secure the tuck, but not be seen from the right side and not extend all the way out.  Repeat on the opposite corner, further up, for the next tuck, and so on.

It may be that it still opens up too much, but it would do away with the pointy boob effect of the top stitching and retain the lovely folds of the original.

Jo

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #2 on: June 26, 2017, 08:02:03 AM »
Forgot to mention I did try hand sewing first. No good, the tucks want to split open so much that the stitching end up showing and I end up with too much ease towards the armholes and shoulders. Looked so bad I didn't even think of taking a picture. The only way this would actually look good on someone is with maybe a looser shirt/blouse.

dolcevita

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #3 on: June 26, 2017, 08:15:29 AM »
That's a pity.  Could you extend the tucks all the way to the edges, taking in the minimum amount you can so as not to distort things too much?

wrenkins

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #4 on: June 26, 2017, 09:29:51 AM »
I haven't a clue about dressmaking but could you maybe back it with something and then when you moved it wouldn't? Sort of hold it on a frame of lining if you know what I mean.
It's gorgeous by the way.
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

Missie

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2017, 09:45:49 AM »
I agree with DV about extending the tucks, especially the bust ones.  Have to say I like it much better with the top stitching.  Origami is about straight precision lines which the first image just doesn't have.
« Last Edit: June 26, 2017, 13:23:41 PM by Missie »

BrendaP

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #6 on: June 26, 2017, 11:32:24 AM »
I like the top stitched version better too, it does look very wearable.

I think part of the problem is that scuba is a thick fabric which doesn't press into sharp creases.  A different fabric would probably look very different
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Jo

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2017, 13:31:39 PM »
Wrenkins, I probably could make it more rigid, but that would not solve the excess ease at the dart tips that would still be there and doesn't look too good.
Missie, unfortunately I cannot extend the tucks that incorporate the bust darts, as that is how the pattern is made. But I could try extending the other ones as they are made to end at a seam (armhole/shoulder).
BrendaP, you're right, a much thinner fabric that would press well would be very different, tho it still has to be topstitched (I made a test version out of muslin but had the same problem with thegaping tucks). I did interface the scuba so it's a bit more rigid and holds a crease well, but no matter what I do I don't think I can sew a dart with a very smooth tip.
Well, learned a few lessons at least :) And the scuba was rather cheap, so not that sorry about it. But it did consume the last of my interfacing, and that I'm a bit sorry about.
How about some form of decoration to hide the dart tips. Maybe some applique or something? Tho I'm not sure how I could do that without attracting more attention to the area? The only thing I thought would work is to apply some ruffles (maybe in organza and in the same color) in princess seam shape. But I'm afraid that would be a bit too much.
Something like this:



elephun

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #8 on: June 26, 2017, 15:52:28 PM »
I feel like the original version would work if it had a series of stays or even tacks keeping things in place behind the scenes. I can't offer anything more specific, unfortunately. I'd have to make one and see if I could come up with something and I absolutely promised myself I'd sew up the dozen projects I have cut out already before starting anything.

As for the top stitched version, what if you start the top stitching at the apex and go the other way? That way you won't have a bubble. You might have a different problem, though. 

DementedFairy

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #9 on: June 26, 2017, 20:05:28 PM »
It's a great design- but not for scuba.  I think that anything origami inspired needs to be made in a  crisp fabric, so that the folds, tucks, pleats etc are cleanly made, and the shadows work best if it's all white.  Scuba is too spongy.  I mean, you wouldn't try to do origami using wallpaper...
C'est moi!

Ohsewsimple

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #10 on: June 26, 2017, 20:08:49 PM »
Ahh.  The bamboo pattern from Pattern Magic?  This is lovely.  But I agree with Brenda.   It needs to be in a fabric that will take a good press and crease.  Could you use an underlining fabric as a stay and hand tack the back of the pleats to the base?   That is how a lot of fancy pleated garment is made. I saw this technique at an exhibition of Valentino,s fashions. 

wrenkins

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #11 on: June 26, 2017, 21:11:23 PM »
Could you use an underlining fabric as a stay and hand tack the back of the pleats to the base?   That is how a lot of fancy pleated garment is made. I saw this technique at an exhibition of Valentino,s fashions.

If I'd known what I was talking about that's what I would have said.  :[ Thank you for articulating my muddled thinking Oss.  :S I saw it on the Sewing Bee.  :)
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

b15erk

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #12 on: June 26, 2017, 21:38:40 PM »
Found this on FB. It's similar to yours on the top, but I think the fabric helps it to  lie differently.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Jo

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #13 on: June 27, 2017, 06:30:43 AM »
Yes, scuba is a difficult fabric for this. But I made a test version out of muslin. Ironed it well and it looks nice when not worn. It holds the creases and looks like it is supposed to - when not worn or on the dress form.
As soon as I put it on tho, all those nice tucks open up when I breathe/move, as if my top was a tad too small, and it's just not a good look. Now I now very well my bodice fits perfectly as it is a custom made pattern and I've made a few other tops with it.
That's why I mentioned I only saw this top on a dressform. Spent 1 hour searching on google/pinterest yesterday and found l no pictures of people actually wearing one.
The scuba is interfaced and was ironed well after I took the first picture and it did hold the creases allright, tho it was a bit bulky underneath.
I'll try taking a few pictures of my muslin today to show you what I mean.

Missie

Re: Help me make my origami top wearable
« Reply #14 on: June 27, 2017, 09:38:46 AM »
Missie, unfortunately I cannot extend the tucks that incorporate the bust darts, as that is how the pattern is made. But I could try extending the other ones as they are made to end at a seam (armhole/shoulder).

You don't have to take too much in, I would just stitch about 1cm further literally just on the fabric which will take you past the bust point and help eliminate the pointy boob look.