The Sewing Place

Seams pulling apart

b15erk

Seams pulling apart
« on: July 12, 2017, 09:14:13 AM »
Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but feel free to move it if not.

I made 4 pairs of cut offs last year and they were perfect for holidays, but on two of the pairs, I'm having trouble with the seams pulling apart.

The first pair, the ones I love most, are a loose weave linen type fabric.  I used iron on interfacing inside as they were a tad see-through, and I'm not fond, but it does the job.  It doesn't however, stop the seams pulling apart.  The trousers are not too tight, if anything they stretch with wearing, but the seams are looking to split before long.

The second pair, are a sort of glazed cotton, and I haven't even worn these as I know they will split the instant I sit down!

The last two pairs have been worn and worn.  One is a stretch denim, and so comfortable!  The second is regular denim, made from reclaimed M&S trousers. 

Any solutions for the first two?  Or do I have to write them off?

Any suggestions for avoiding the problem?  I would be very grateful.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Jo

Re: Seams pulling apart
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2017, 09:18:38 AM »
Which seams? Side or crotch? It might be a machine tension issue or, if just crotch, you might not have enough sitting room.
Pictures would be helpful :)

b15erk

Re: Seams pulling apart
« Reply #2 on: July 12, 2017, 09:28:20 AM »
Both Jo.  I think it's a fabric issue.  I can't get pics just yet, as I'm at work.  They look as if a lot of stress has been put on them, but it hasn't.  The other two pairs are fine.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

jen

Re: Seams pulling apart
« Reply #3 on: July 12, 2017, 12:03:38 PM »
How about double stitching the seams? Perhaps a faux run and fell on the leg seams and a second row of stitching a couple of mms from the first one in the crotch seam.

Manuela

Re: Seams pulling apart
« Reply #4 on: July 12, 2017, 12:08:50 PM »
I'm afraid there really is nothing you can do. The seam slippage of the fabric is not strong enough for bottoms. Back when I worked in the industry, that was a very important test that we did in the development stage. Some fabrics are just not suitable for certain styles.

b15erk

Re: Seams pulling apart
« Reply #5 on: July 12, 2017, 12:17:21 PM »
Thanks girls, I knew you would have answers!

Jen, I was hoping that a fix like that would do the trick, but, Manuela, I think yours is the answer which is more likely....

It's very difficult though, to do a test on fabric which you have yet to wear.  ><  I guess it's just a 'best guess' and experience.

I'll put pics up tomorrow, it's a miserable thing to happen after all that sewing  :(

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Lyn-J

Re: Seams pulling apart
« Reply #6 on: July 12, 2017, 14:19:51 PM »
My first thought was flat felling, but fear Manuela is right. Maybe lining or interlining?

Manuela

Re: Seams pulling apart
« Reply #7 on: July 13, 2017, 01:44:20 AM »
My first thought was flat felling, but fear Manuela is right. Maybe lining or interlining?

Sadly, lining won't help, I speak from experience here. Underlining is an option, but might make the resulting garment too heavy.
When I sew a bottom or fitted sheath dress, I make a simple slippage test first by sewing the fabric together and then pulling hard on each side to see how the fabric reacts at the seams.

b15erk

Re: Seams pulling apart
« Reply #8 on: July 13, 2017, 09:06:13 AM »
Well, here are the problem areas.  The first is the seam, now pulling so far that it is in danger of splitting.  The whole top area of the trousers has been interfaced, as the fabric tended to 'see through', I think that may have helped it to last as long as it has!  The second pic is the zip area, which is stretching out too.  Tbh, I think they are now 'gardening trousers', and I will just wear them until they fall apart!  :S

The last pic, is another pair of the same trousers, but done in a denim weight fabric.  The seam, and zip areas show no signs whatsoever of stress.  Both pairs were made at the same time, but I did prefer the darker pair....  :(

I have some of the dark fabric left, but I'll use it for something that has no stress points!!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Manuela

Re: Seams pulling apart
« Reply #9 on: July 13, 2017, 11:46:21 AM »
Jessie, oh no! Looking at the pictures, your problem is definitely seam slippage, so using your dark leftover material for something loose fitting is the only guarantee of avoiding the issue.
I'm really sorry for the bad news, especially considering how much work you put into making the trousers.