Set in Sleeve Head - How much ease?

[Lyn-J]

How much ease should a sleeve head have? I'm working with the Vogue fitting shell and it allows 1 1/2". I thought it was the norm to allow an inch. What do you think?

[Ohsewsimple]

That often depends on the fabric you are using.  I sometimes alter my sleeve heads and reduce ease if I am working with a fabric that doesn't ease well.  Polyester is often a problem.  I would go with what they have given you as a starting point.

[Tamnymore]

I agree with OSS, best to start with what the pattern says. You can try running a line of long machine stitches round the sleeve head and pulling them up a little to form a very slight gather and that will help ease the sleeve into position. If there's a bit of give in the fabric, say cotton, linen or viscose you should be able to get the sleeve in ok. Also helps to take in some of the fullness if you can iron the sleeve head over a tailor's ham once you have sewn it into position.

[Lyn-J]

I managed to set my sleeve in ok-ish. I will probably take a bit of ease out in the patterns I make from it. We will see.

[Ohsewsimple]

That,s good.  I always make sure the top line where it meets the shoulder isn't eased for around 1/2” - 1".   This area won't ease as it,s on the straight grain and not the bias like the rest of the seam.