The Sewing Place

Sewing with silk

Jo

Sewing with silk
« on: July 26, 2017, 07:43:25 AM »
So I kinda sorta promised husband a silk pyjama. Didn't really know what I was getting into...but well, too late now :)
Got the silk, some really lovely sandwashed jaquard habotai (light coffee colour). As a side note, the order arrived really fast - 2 weeks - and was delivered at home, no customs office, and the fabric really is awesome!
Question is: how do I cut it? How do I sew it? Basically...how do I NOT ruin it?
Any tips for sewing with silk?
I see Linda lee has a class on craftsy, but a reviewer mentioned she only talks about Silk dupion wich has a lot more structure and is one of the easier to work with silks. The one I have is oh so slinky!

Missie

Re: Sewing with silk
« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2017, 08:09:13 AM »
I love silk and actually, sewing with is fine, if you treat it properly.  The rule is with any slippery fabric to pin it well (and depending on how "proper" you want to be, baste it!) to prevent slippage, but with the silk only pin it in the seam allowance as the pin marks will show,  and this goes for pinning it on the grainline: don't pin along the grainline, measure it and pin in the seam allowance.

Good luck, looking forward to seeing this one.  Lucky husband too; mine was lucky to have his buttons sewn back on his shirt when they fell off!

Jo

Re: Sewing with silk
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2017, 12:58:45 PM »
Thanks Missie :)
I rarely use pins as I find them more trouble than they are worth. I'll only use them if I really, absolutely have to. But hand basting sounds like a good idea and I will do that.
Was planning on flat felled seams, but I dropped that idea  0_0 Have been playing today and will probably use a french seam. I'm a bit afraid of the sleeve seams, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
By the way, it's AMAZING what a good iron can do. I have a small iron in my sewing room, as the Miele ironing station is too cumbersome to move around and I only use it when I have more than one little seam to iron. So I was using the small iron and couldn't get anything to stay pressed. Almost got to the point of yanking my hair out. And then I thought "might as well try with the steam iron, see what that'll do".
Lo and behold, perfectly pressed seams with no effort. They looked darn good!
Took them to husband for his inspectiong. "A bit crooked and not so good looking" says he. Well, I felt like punching him in the face  0_0 Told him that's what he's getting even if he likes it or not.

Catllar

Re: Sewing with silk
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2017, 13:22:17 PM »
He needs a good slapping  :S- out with the fish :fish:

 I'd be very tempted to tell him if he thinks he can do better than he can get on with it!
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

HenriettaMaria

Re: Sewing with silk
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2017, 19:05:10 PM »
I made DH a pair of silk sleep shorts from a remnant left over from another project.  I too decided on French seams and realised too late that the original pattern had side vents.  Not too much of a problem except that, with tapering legs you can't just adapt and convert to a normal hem because the turnup doesn't have the same circumference as the bit of the leg you're trying to stitch it to.  Not the end of the world (they were sleepwear after all) but something to look out for.  If you decide to do the same you will need to 'mirror' the taper of the leg at the hemline so it flares enough to then make a good fit come hemming time.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Sewing with silk
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2017, 19:39:39 PM »
French seams will work nicely.  But make sure of the fit before sewing! 
Working with this sort of fabric is all about prep work. If you are going to wash garments make sure fabric is washed first.  The jacquard I had shrunk quite a bit. 
When laying out I use a layer of tissue paper on the cutting table. I draw a pencil line along the edge to line up my selvedge.  I also draw a line at right angles to this so that I can line up the cut or ripped edge.  I pin the fabric along these lines so that it doesn't shift. Pattern is pinned to the fabric and thought o the tissue paper.  Cut through the lot and leave on the tissue till needed.  It will keep the piece stable till you work with it.