Facings - neatening, grading, understitching

[Lilacs]

Hello helpful people
I haven't had time to sew (or post) in what seems to be forever but I am *sort of* attempting New Look 6963 - sleeveless shirt with collar. I've used my block to draft it, but am following their instructions. They tell me to layer and understitch the facing as far as possible. I don't want the understitching to show though and I think it will do at the front opening. I also really want to neaten the collar seams as the fabric is fraying like crazy. How bad is it going to be if I just overlock the facing/collar sandwich? Then press well? Not keen on topstitching either due to my wonky stitching and the fabric which keeps snagging. Any advice please!

[Surest1tch]

I always overlock facing edges and seams, they always look ok and lay properly. In my opinion if you layer and understitch it adds too much bulk.

[Fabric Lover]

It is important to always understitch the facing so that it lies flat and does not roll out and show on the right side. Layering should reduce bulk not add to it.  As for top stitching, I can understand your reluctance due to wonky stitching but the more you do it, the better you become! If the fabric is snagging, are you using a blunt needle?

[Lilacs]

I always overlock facing edges and seams, they always look ok and lay properly. In my opinion if you layer and understitch it adds too much bulk.

That's exacly the answer I wanted to hear

[Lilacs]

It is important to always understitch the facing so that it lies flat and does not roll out and show on the right side. Layering should reduce bulk not add to it.  As for top stitching, I can understand your reluctance due to wonky stitching but the more you do it, the better you become! If the fabric is snagging, are you using a blunt needle?

It shouldn't be blunt as I changed it.
I think understitching will show on the right side as the collar flaps open - that's what I want to avoid. How should I neaten if I understitch please?

[elephun]

My 1996 DK Complete Book of Sewing says, on page 147:

"On designs that fasten to the neck, open out the facing, and understitch on the right side close to the collar seam and through the seam allowances as far as possible. If the neck edge is to be worn open, understitch the back neck."

Italics added by me.

If you are sewing the collared version(s) and won't be buttoning the top button, the collar may flap open as you fear. In that case, you may want to try understitching the back neck instead of the standard instructions included in the pattern. I hope that helps!

I think this is the pattern:

[jen]

Seems to be 3 issues going on here. If the needle is snagging, I'd try different kinds of needle and thread combinations on a scrap. You don't say what the fabric is, have you tried a microtex needle? These seem to be good for many difficult fabrics.
Understitching and neatening serve different purposes. Understitching helps to hold the facings where you want them to be. It attaches the facings to the turnings, and is usually done close to the seam edge. To get it to turn well you have to snip into the turnings first so that the tighter inner curve of the cut edge can open and sit on the longer curve where it hits the bodice when pressed. You can grade the turnings, especially if the fabric is bulky, to stop an ugly ridge.

Neatening the edge of the facings is a different question and you can do this in any way that suits the fabric, e;g; overlocking, turning under and stitching, zigzag

[Lilacs]

Thanks both.
I do know what both are . I'd just like to know how can you neaten once it's understitched? It's fraying a lot so I'd prioritise neatening over understitching. Not a clue what the fabric is: a woven, some kind of viscose mix perhaps. I could try yet another needle type, but it's ok right now.
Yes elephun, that's the pattern - version A. Understitching just the back would make sense.

[Efemera]

The facing should be neatened before it's stitched to the garment...

[Lilacs]

But if you are then grading it, aren't you likely to cut off the neatening, IYSWIM? It's not just the facing, but the collar too.

[SkoutSews]

On the completed garment the graded and/or understitched seams will be hidden away behind the facing and fraying shouldn't be a problem.  This might just be my narrow experience, but once the seam is hidden and protected by the facing it won't get the wear which might cause fraying.
On the understitching question, I would only understitch where it can't be seen.  Perhaps that was what the pattern instructions were trying to say, "...understitch where possible..."? 
I also avoid topstitching, to my mind it rarely looks good even if it is done well. 

[BrendaP]

Facings are usually neatened on the outside edge, ie the edge furthest from the seam.

It's unusual to neaten the seam edges which are trapped between the facing and the outer fabric.  If the fabric does fray very badly overlocking or zig-zagging the outer fabric's seam allowance is an option but it's rarely necessary.  When you trim the two seam allowances it's the facing that should be cut narrowest but if you have used iron-on interfacing that should stop any fraying.

[Lilacs]

Yes - that's why I asked about neatening to stop fraying, i.e. the seam allowance, and whether overlooking will be OK, versus understitching and grading. I know this isn't the norm, hence the question. The interfacing is of course only on the facing so am wanting to make sure the collar doesn't disintegrate!  I am always concerned about fraying as had to throw away a top I'd made for this very reason. Also bought a top from a cheapie shop just recently, wore it once, washed it and it came out if the washer with the binding off and fabric fraying away underneath.

[b15erk]

Lilacs, the situation with fraying fabric is horrible, because half the time, you don't realise until you wear the garment, that the fabric isn't stable enough.

I have had two instances, one a blouse, frayed a lot, but I did everything right as regards stabilising and finishing.  First time of wearing, I came home and the whole seam had come apart!  It was overlocked, and looked great, but the fabric just shredded.  The second, a pair of cut off trousers, in a loose weave linen type fabric.  Worn a couple of times, and not only the side seams, but the zipper seams were just pulling apart.

Wish I could help more, but sometimes the fabric is just not right for the job (it certainly wasn't in my case).

Sorry not to have more positive help, but hoping that your fabric is tamed by normal methods!

Jessie

[BrendaP]

The interfacing is of course only on the facing so am wanting to make sure the collar doesn't disintegrate! 

The underside of the collar is usually interfaced too.  If you are really concerned I suppose you could apply lightweight interfacing to both sides of the coller, but as Jessie said sometimes a fabric just isn't suitable for what you would like to use it for.