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Style Arc Talia Trousers

Acorn

Style Arc Talia Trousers
« on: July 30, 2017, 10:52:07 AM »
I was about to start cutting this pattern out yesterday when I thought that the pieces looked rather large, so I stopped and measured them.  This is a pair of woven, pull-on trousers with 2.5 inches of ease at the hips for Australian size 10 (which I am not).

I measured the hips for my size and found around 8 inches of ease.  Now I can see that a larger size would probably want proportionately more ease, but 8 inches seems a lot.  Compared to a pair of my trousers that fit me reasonably, the pattern is massive, although my trousers are stretch denim (and old, and a bit warped - much like me), so not an ideal comparison.  I mostly have baggy trousers and stretchy trousers, so I don't have anything more useful to compare it to.

There is one review on Pattern Review, and the maker found that they turned out pretty much as the picture on the pattern, which shows a fairly close fit - she is a smaller size, though.

I almost always make things too big and have to take them in, but I'm very much aware that it ain't that simple for trousers.

Has anyone else made this pattern?  Should I go down a couple of sizes (which seems really brave!) and hope for the best?  Help!
« Last Edit: July 30, 2017, 11:02:20 AM by Acorn »
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Ellabella

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2017, 12:37:25 PM »
The only Style Arc pattern I attempted came out huge.

I have a tendency to make things too large and always size up rather than down but 8ins of ease seems a bit over the top.

I think most designers oversize their bigger sizes, unless they are doing plus size patterns.

If like me you are at the top of the regular size range but not big enough for the plus size ranges you can have real problems esp with wovens.

Do you have any fabric you can make a toile with, than you can at least attempt 2 sizes down

Acorn

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2017, 12:44:53 PM »
Thank you - it's reassuring to know that it may well just be the pattern.  I have sized up in that I'm using my full hip measurement rather than just the straightforward hip measurement.  I have made Style Arc Ethel trousers which are enormous - but they're supposed to be.

For once I actually do have some fabric that I could risk (a grey denim with a tiny bit of stretch bought in an online sale, and not a very nice colour).

I'm thinking that 4 inches of ease with a more generous than usual seam allowance ought to be reasonably safe.  Even with the not very nice colour I find it hard to make something that I might not be able to get to fit!   :|
« Last Edit: July 30, 2017, 12:55:21 PM by Acorn »
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Ellabella

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2017, 14:25:02 PM »
Why don't you email Style Arc.

 I understand they respond pretty quickly though not that helpful if you want to make them today.

Acorn

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2017, 18:31:13 PM »
Ah - the problem is half me and half the pattern!

I've just realised that I was measuring to the edge of the seam allowance and not the stitching line (I blame the fact that I am now completely unused to patterns with more than a few sizes on them - all those lines!)

That still leaves 5.5 inches of ease, but going down one size leaves me with 3 inches of ease, which seems about right.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Acorn

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2017, 13:44:14 PM »
Hmm.  Make that 'very slightly me, and mostly the pattern'. I like the style very much, but the fit...  ><

I made a size smaller than my measurements suggested.  Then I had to take another 4 inches off hips and waist, and a further 3 inches off the top of the centre seam.  Even now, if I was trying them on in a  shop I'd try a size smaller.

They're wearable, but only because I already have low expectations of trousers.  The bottom fits nicely, and the waist is (now) good, but there's an awful lot of room at the top of the legs, front and back.  That will improve when I shorten them, but only slightly, I think.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

b15erk

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2017, 14:01:39 PM »
Plosh, was this a Pdf download?  I had huge sizing problems with SA before realising that the scale was massively off.  It's worth an email to them though.

I have to say, I'm glad I persevered with the Stylearc Barb pant, because it is the most useful trouser pattern I have.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Acorn

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2017, 14:41:16 PM »
No, this was a paper pattern from Amazon - one of the very few I have that is not a pdf.

Do you need a very stretchy woven for the Barb pants?  I do have that pattern, but haven't used it because my stretch woven fabrics aren't very stretchy.  Do you use your standard hip measurement for choosing the size, or your full hip?

I'm a bit befuddled now, because measuring the pattern suggested that I would have 3 inches of ease, and if my measurements of the pattern and myself are correct (and they are, I've checked and re-checked), and my seam allowances are good (again, they are), how can it possibly come out so large?

I made some Bootstrap cropped trousers a few weeks ago, and they were also enormous, although the pattern was intended to be loose, so who knows whether they were correct or not?  It does make me wonder if it is me getting the size wrong though.  But I've gone round in a circle now - how can I have the size wrong if it is based on accurate measurements?

I think I'd better sit down in a darkened room for a while...
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

b15erk

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2017, 15:10:24 PM »
The pattern specifically said to use Bengaline for the Barb pants, and I was very nearly put off because I used the bengaline, and hated it!  It's a one way stretch so there was a lot of waste on placement, and it rustled, and just didn't hang nicely.

Since then I have used both 2 and one way stretch (just being careful with layout) and I love the pattern.  I've made one version with virtually no stretch, and they fit really well.

The Barb pattern, is one you can really play around with, and I'm sure I'll be making more.

Word of caution:  use measurements, not sizes!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Acorn

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2017, 16:06:11 PM »
The Bengaline recommendation has put me off too, partly because the ones I've found have been polyester.

I have just ordered some cheap woven cotton/lycra from myfabrics.co.uk and I think I will have a go at the Barb pants.  It will be interesting to see how the pattern compares with the Talia.  I might risk making the Talia again, maybe another two sizes down (  :o ).
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

maliw

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #10 on: July 31, 2017, 16:26:29 PM »
I made Natasha pants and they are fine and really comfortable. I struggled with the narrow seam allowance to start with though. They are quite wide legged but as I made them in linen they are great for warm weather.
At leisure on the leisure penninsula

Bogwoppit

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2017, 08:52:14 AM »
I had a little Google and found this blog post. She seems to have had similar problem s.
http://fabrickated.com/2017/03/18/style-arc-talia-trousers/

And this one mentions the baggyness of the legs.
http://sewingontheedge.blogspot.co.uk/2016/03/talia-pant-muslin-beach-walking-version.html
Lurking in Lancashire, improving my sewing when life gives me time.

Acorn

Re: Style Arc Talia Trousers
« Reply #12 on: August 02, 2017, 10:06:18 AM »
Thank you Bogwoppit, that is very interesting.  Neither of them have the excessive size issue that I did (but then they are both small sizes),  but they both have the bagginess around the crotch - worse in mine, but then mine are denim, which is much less forgiving of such bagginess.  I do think the first blogger made a big mistake in trying to gather corduroy along the ribs - that was never going to be good.

Also interesting is the fact that the second blogger made exactly the same adjustment to the order in which she made them up, which was a bit of a saving grace for me because it allowed me to lop massive amounts from the waistband before making it up properly.  It also meant I didn't end up taking the unmentioned extra little pleat that can be seen in the first blogger's picture.

I feel a bit more normal now!
« Last Edit: August 02, 2017, 10:18:39 AM by Acorn »
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.