The Sewing Place

Sewing darts - where do you start?

Bogwoppit

Sewing darts - where do you start?
« on: August 02, 2017, 08:37:59 AM »
I bought myself Alison Smith's Dressmaking book for my birthday. She says to sew darts starting at the point. Everything else I have seen says start from the seam and go towards the point.

What do you do and why?

I'd like to try starting at the point but suspect the end would get chewed up as does everything that I start too close to the edge.
Lurking in Lancashire, improving my sewing when life gives me time.

Swisslass

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2017, 08:42:53 AM »
I start at the base of the dart and taper it up to the point, I find it easier to control the shape of the dart.
I'd like to think I was inspired, but maybe sewing is just hard wired

UttaRetch

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2017, 08:50:40 AM »
I also have this book, but I have been sewing for years and always start from the other end.  Alison's explanation says:

Quote
Always stitch a dart from the point to the wide end as then you will be able to sink the machine needle into the point accurately and securely.

I start my darts with a couple of back stitches and it's much easier to do this from the wide end.  I sew beyond the point then tie off the threads.

b15erk

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2017, 10:29:15 AM »
I too, sew from the wide end and taper to the point, reducing the size of the stitches to make it less likely to unravel.

I have tried a weird and wonderful method some time ago which involved using just the top thread on the machine, so you get no tails.  It was the devil to thread up though, although the finish was fab.

I think it was a Threads article, I'll try to find it.  Interesting.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ploshkin

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #4 on: August 02, 2017, 10:33:55 AM »
I also sew from base to point because I was taught that way.  If I'm sewing a double ended dart I sew from the middle out to the point then again for the other point.
Life's too short for ironing.

Surest1tch

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2017, 11:07:09 AM »
I always start at the base and bring it out to the point leaving long ends I can tie off at the point.  I don't back tack the point when sewing at home but did when I was working.

BrendaP

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2017, 11:20:40 AM »
I'm another who starts at the wide end and finishes at the point and then tie the ends.

I also try to decrease the angle for the last few stitches, so that they are almost parallel to the fold, so that it will press out smoother.  Some diagrams I've seen show the angle increased just before the point. :ninja:
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Missie

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2017, 12:06:12 PM »
Yep, I'm another start at the widest point.  I like to run the last few stitches literally just catching the very edge of the fabric which helps avoid pointed ends; I'm not so sure it would be easy starting that way!

Jo

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #8 on: August 02, 2017, 12:18:03 PM »
I was also used to sewing from the wide end. But lately I've been sewing from the tip and find I get a much better result that way, especially with bigger darts.

Elnnina

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2017, 12:26:59 PM »
I was also  taught to sew darts from the wide end to the point.  However many, many years ago I learnt from a book (Short Cuts to Sewing Skills by Thelma Lane) to pull up the bobbin thread and reverse thread this through the needle, then pull sufficient thread through and tie on to the top thread (it is trial and error as to how much to pull through as it all depends on the length of the dart), wind all this surplus thread on to the cotton spool/reel and then start stitching at the point, you place the needle right on the fold of fabric and then stitch the dart with a few stitches on the fold and then slowly tapering outwards from the point.  It does take a little practice, but the beauty of this method is that you do not have ends to sew/knot off which can create a little bulk, also they cannot unravel due to insecure sewing/tie off).  Just remember when all the darts have been stitched to unwind all the knotted part off the top spool – there is usually   quite a bit, can always be saved for any hand sewing.

So ever since I have sewn my darts this way, perhaps it is a bit of a fiddle pulling up fresh thread from the bobbin for each dart you sew, but to me it is worth it.

Incidentally I actually use a small needle threader to thread the needle the reverse way or if you are nimble fingered try knotting the thread, just a single knot and gradually ease this through the needle.

Incidentally I found this book full of ideas on better machine stitching, for a quick fix for seam allowances marked on the machine bed, use masking tape – especially useful for those with machines that do not have the throat plate marked in this way.

charlotte

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2017, 14:18:59 PM »
I have recently switched allegiance on the advice of the same Alison Smith. I now sew them starting at the point – her theory being that it is most important that the point is in the right place and you can see exactly where you’re starting and you’re more likely to slip off the line towards the end. In the Craftsy video I got this tip from she mentions that most people sew them the other way.

jen

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2017, 14:31:22 PM »
Wide end to point here. I've tried the bobbin thread method but just got a mess, must have been doing something wrong. I prefer that direction because I usually shape the dart and find it easier to visualise that way round. To finish the end I like stitch the last few stitches with a teeny stitch length. This can then be snipped close and doesn't unravel. You have to be certain that you've got the position right though as it's nearly impossible to unpick.

Catllar

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #12 on: August 02, 2017, 18:20:32 PM »
Wide to narrow as I often use a curved dart and it can visualise it better that way round. Reduce stitch length towards point.
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

Lyn-J

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #13 on: August 02, 2017, 21:10:26 PM »
I sew towards the point and I back stitch when I get to the point. I've never done the darning in the end malarkey.  :devil:

Bogwoppit

Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« Reply #14 on: August 02, 2017, 21:26:39 PM »
Thank you everyone.  Lots to think about.

I have 8 darts to sew tomorrow, bust and shoulder in cotton lawn and lining.  It's my first top pattern drafted from my Suzy Furrer bodice block craftsy course(s).  Only done practice one using a old sheet - this is the first proper one.  Wish me luck!
Lurking in Lancashire, improving my sewing when life gives me time.