The Sewing Place

Orange lingerie Marlborough bra

Francesca

Re: Orange lingerie Marlborough bra
« Reply #15 on: August 31, 2017, 15:58:28 PM »
Thanks for that linky Fran, I've just tried the measuring calculator, and they think I need a 40FF/G.  I'm currently wearing a 42B.  I am not really convinced.

That sounds promising and very likely.

We tend to have a preconception, perhaps perpetuated by the fashion industry, that breasts over a D cup are huge, and only for the likes of page 3 models and such. For starters a cup size is not static and moves with the band. And secondarily you'll be surprised how an FF/G can look on different frames - certainly it's not always large. I wear a very close size to you and while I'd not say I'm small chested I definitely don't think I look overly large chested. Yet I wear a 38FF. https://goo.gl/photos/GmHT7bQx2GKYA6Ht7

The best thing to do I would say is go to the changing room with a totally open mind. Pretend that you do not know bra sizes, that they are entirely new to you. Try on a few bras around the range of your size. So 38-40 from F through to G. Just give them a go. Remember when you put them on to "stoop and scoop". Stoop over and make sure you properly grasp the breast tissue from the sides, and pull them into place in the cups.

The fact that you have gone down in the band size is telling. It may be that you are purchasing a higher bra band so that your "B" cup is large enough to accommodate your bust, when actually a larger cup size is needed and therefore you can go down a band size. Bands should be fairly taut. You should be able to gently stretch the band but not by too much.

Also remember to try on a range of styles. Their list is excellent and I have a few bras on their recommended list actually. When I tried this experiment on my Mum she said "see look there is loose fabric in the cup!" stating that the size was wrong. But actually it was just the wrong shape. She's full on top so the bras that are better for full on bottom leave wrinkles of excess fabric in the base of the cup. That can make you think the cup is too large but really it's just ill-suited to your shape.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2017, 16:02:17 PM by Francesca »

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Orange lingerie Marlborough bra
« Reply #16 on: August 31, 2017, 17:31:59 PM »
Hmm, I think the theory is good, but I've never had big boobs, they've only got a bit bigger since the rest of me's got a lot bigger  :|  I may have to try one in the recommended size just out of interest.

BrendaP

Re: Orange lingerie Marlborough bra
« Reply #17 on: August 31, 2017, 17:47:30 PM »
42B to 40FF is a huge difference in cup sizes.

Whilst I agree with the info Francesca posted about - some breasts being fuller on top, others being fuller underneath, some are more pointy, some are flatter etc, what  bra fitting really comes down to is finding a wire size - even in non-wire styles - which fits around the root of your breast (the natural crease) and matching it to a comfortably firm underband size.  Info about that here.

Bra wires sizes are based on a B cup.  So the wire from a 42B would be the same as the wire in a 44A or a 40C, a 38D, a 36E and so on.  Within the same style of bra the cups of each of those sizes should be identical.  It may well be that you find that different brands/different styles fit better or worse than each other.  Charts like this one show the wire size/cup size groups.

The Sewing Chest has lots of actual size drawings of wires. 

If you have an old bra you are willing to sacrifice (or repair afterwards) remove the wires, and hold them up against yourself.  If the wire sits nicely against your chest wall it's the right size.  If it digs in and doesn't lie against the chest wall properly it's too small, if there's room between it and the crease it's too big.

Once you have found the right size wire and matched it to get the cup size-letter any fitting tweeks should be doable on a toile by making very small changes in the curves of the pattern pieces.  On the Marlborough bra pattern those tweeks could be done either on the power bar seam or on the seam between upper and lower cup pieces.
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Francesca

Re: Orange lingerie Marlborough bra
« Reply #18 on: August 31, 2017, 20:25:15 PM »
As I said I went from similar (C to FF) and it was just about pulling lots of flesh in from the side. Essentially I was wearing bra cups on top of my breast tissue but with too much flaring from the base. They say it's like putting an orange in the rim of a glass, when the glass mouth is too small the whole orange cannot go in the glass.

BrendaP

Re: Orange lingerie Marlborough bra
« Reply #19 on: September 01, 2017, 00:22:35 AM »
Apart from being more comfortable a bra that fits will make whatever you wear on top look better.
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Francesca

Re: Orange lingerie Marlborough bra
« Reply #20 on: September 01, 2017, 11:12:43 AM »
Yep my favourite bra gives me a much pointier shape than I normally am and it looks so much better under clothes (Panache Envy if you're curious!)