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Jersey fabric falling apart

Bodgeitandscarper

Jersey fabric falling apart
« on: August 29, 2017, 12:07:17 PM »
One of the lovely jersey tops I've made recently is falling apart - the fabric just seems to be disintegrating at all the seams.  Do you think it's just the fabric, or something to do with my sewing?  I overlocked the seams as I usually do, and none of the seams are under any strain as it's loose fitting. 
I'm very annoyed as I love the top, but can't really think of any way of rescuing it.  The pics are taken from the inside of the top against the light, it's a black fabric with white daisies on it.

BrendaP

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2017, 12:12:32 PM »
I think it's the fabric  :'(

It's possible that you had the stitch length of the overlocking set quite short (close together) which might have put strain on the seams.

The only possible rescue I can think of would be to re-sew all the seams making them about 1/4" tighter (and with the stitch length set longer) but that of course would end up making it a smaller size.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2017, 12:14:11 PM »
And making it smaller isn't an option, it does fit fairly close around the bust and wouldn't want it any tighter.   :(

toileandtrouble

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2017, 12:39:15 PM »
All I can suggest, if you have the scraps still, is putting a self bias binding flat over both sides of the seams. If you are tidy and have binned the scraps, a toning plain?
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

arrow

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2017, 12:49:11 PM »
I had that happen too, with a single needle overlock stitch as well as two needle. I think it's needle type, some fabrics are very weak and sensitive to punch of the needle and thread, the tearing happens before there's any wear or force to the seam. The damage quickly excelerate and becomes more visible. I think microtex and jersey needle are recommended for this, it can make a difference, some of the girls here know this better than me.
« Last Edit: August 29, 2017, 13:08:46 PM by arrow »

Ploshkin

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2017, 14:08:13 PM »
The fabric appears to be quite thin as the light shows through quite a bit.  I still wouldn't expect it to do that with a loose fitting garment though.
Life's too short for ironing.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #6 on: August 29, 2017, 19:49:23 PM »
It may well be the needles, I have no idea what's in the overlocker!  I probably need to check!

elephun

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #7 on: August 29, 2017, 21:28:56 PM »
What a pretty fabric for a top! I hope you salvage it!

The overlocking looks like the stitches are very close together, and as a result have perforated the fabric like paper on a notepad. You might also want a different needle, but lengthen that stitch out first and see how that goes first.

If you look inside a storebought tee to see the length of stitch they use, you'll have something to compare to. Not that you are emulating storebought tee shirts! Your things are much more stylish and lovely. But ready to wear has a few things figured out that we can use as jumping off points.

Surest1tch

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2017, 20:57:17 PM »
Try taking just a fraction out of the seams with your overlocker using wider and a little looser stitches and ball point needles.
I can't promise it will work but it's got to be worth a try.

Missie

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2017, 09:51:04 AM »
It may well be the needles, I have no idea what's in the overlocker!  I probably need to check!

That was my initial thought.  You need a ball-tipped needle for sewing jerseys, which will go between the "stitches" of the fabric where as a normal pointed needle will cut through them causing them to break and therefore make holes appear.  Think about if you had a knitted woolly garment and you cut one of the stitches, it would start unravelling.....it is the same with jersey knits.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #10 on: August 31, 2017, 10:03:35 AM »
I'm always very particular about what needle I use in my sewing machine, but have never given the overlocker needle a thought!  :|  Possibly because I always sew jersey and it's been ok up to now.  I'll go and check it.
Thanks for all your thoughts everyone, I may try altering the stitch length and needle and take a teensy weensy bit wider seam.

b15erk

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #11 on: August 31, 2017, 10:10:29 AM »
Bodge, before you sew, try ironing a narrow strip of interfacing along the seam.  I've done this before, and it helps with seam security.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2017, 10:44:06 AM »
Now there's a thought - black iron on lightweight interfacing, that might just do the job!  Thank you! 
some of the seams are quite curved, so may have to investigate if a narrow straight strip will work or if I'd need to cut curves.  Or can you get stretchy, lightweight, iron-on?  Moon on a stick??

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #13 on: August 31, 2017, 10:48:11 AM »
OOh, apparently you can get black stretch jersey knitted fusible interfacing  0_0  Thank you so much for that idea, B16erk  0_0

Edit:  just wondering now if it will make the seams stiff, the pattern is this one - https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9130
« Last Edit: August 31, 2017, 10:59:06 AM by Bodgeitandscarper »

b15erk

Re: Jersey fabric falling apart
« Reply #14 on: August 31, 2017, 10:57:08 AM »
I wouldn't cut a curve, just one long this strip, and cut into it at intervals to go around the curves.  Works for me....

I have been known to use short strips to go around corners too....  :o  but there again, I'm mean with interfacing..... ;)

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.