The Sewing Place

Where are all the tutu makers?

Thecostumelady

Where are all the tutu makers?
« on: August 29, 2017, 20:05:49 PM »
Okay you lot, where are you hiding?  The tutu posts on this forum are conspicuous by their absence....  Just pull yourselves together and get some good threads going.  Surely we can't all be so perfect now that we don't need any help and advice??  Okay, I'll start.  I'm still struggling a bit with stretch tutus to make them 'feel' like traditional.  I'm still wanting to put a back opening in, even if it's only in the waist area. Would make it so much easier with putting on the top plate when it's not stretch and don't want to gather it.  I still want to tuck the plate under the basque that isn't there! >:)  Has anyone else had a go?  I know the back seam would have to be stabilised somehow.  Need to experiment but never seem to have the time these days as there is always another tutu needed urgently so I keep on using the same methods.  Has anyone else had a go?  Would love to hear how you got on.  Ann x

Oakmaiden

Re: Where are all the tutu makers?
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2017, 21:05:39 PM »
I made my tutu number 2 this week.

It is much better than tutu number one.  Except...  it is completely unwearable.

Basically - I decided to pleat the top layers instead of gathering them.  When I gathered and sewed them on the blue tutu there was enough stretch in the gathered layers to pull the tutu over the dancers hips.  But the pleated layers on the white tutu don't have any stretch at all.

I'm not quite sure what to do about it, to be honest...


Yellowfeather

Re: Where are all the tutu makers?
« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2017, 05:47:21 AM »
I make stretch tutus all the time, but i have only done a back opening for one girl.  the problem we had was the hips were considerably larger than the waist, and she couldn't pull it on.  I made the bodice opening the same way I make a boned one, i used hook and eye tape to stabilise it, with a placket underneath, so no gaps on show.  If possible i sew the plate onto the leotard before i stitch the skirt, but if I cant, i hand stitch it to the top layer of the skirt as close to the bodice as possible, but i make the waist opening just slightly bigger than the finished measurement.

if you pleat the net for the first layer or two, which i always do, make the finished measurement about 1" larger than the hip measurement, then I stitch and gather it up to match the hip measurement before i attach to the leotard.

I always find the decoration of the tutu the hardest thing, so any suggestions on that would be great.

serifloss

Re: Where are all the tutu makers?
« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2017, 06:48:57 AM »
I'm still here and check in occasionally. I'm doing very little sewing now and haven't made any tutus for a few years. Have neuropathy which effects my hands. :'( Even when I was constructing tutus I was just making the traditional non-stretch ones so I really haven't got any suggestions...sorry.

Thecostumelady

Re: Where are all the tutu makers?
« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2017, 08:10:16 AM »
Hi. Thanks for the replies!  I always now pleat all of my layers and no problem with them stretching easily over the hips.  I have tried all the methods of gathering with fishing line, measuring out eighths, matching up etc... but I find them so faffy and time consuming I have abandoned all that and gone back to quick and easy pleating. I pleat the whole piece (about 4 widths stitched together), on the machine first. Each pleat is folded concertina wise so that I reduce a length of about 4" of net to around half an inch or less. When it done you can hold the ends and 'bounce' the piece so that you can feel the stretch in it.  A 4 width layer of pleating will stretch at least an extra 4" when required. I then sew each layer straight on to the ready done leotard, without stretching the pleated net or the lycra leo.  No measuring required.  If your pleated piece is too long, just trim the excess off, if too short, pleat a bit more and stitch it on!! Easy.  I don't need to steam or press as the pleats have been pressed by the machine foot whilst being sewn.  I do quite often alternate a single and double layer of net.  Anyone want any more detail, just shout!  I will try to post some pics when I have worked out how to do it!!  Ann x

Lollipop

Re: Where are all the tutu makers?
« Reply #5 on: September 01, 2017, 17:58:34 PM »
Oakmaiden, I find it helps to sew the top of your triple pleated layer with a slight zigzag stich so that it has some give but stays the right size unless you pull it. There are a couple of active pages on Facebook that are worth checking out.
Was Sewnanny

Thecostumelady

Re: Where are all the tutu makers?
« Reply #6 on: September 01, 2017, 19:49:38 PM »
Oh that was another point.  I was going to ask - Are you stitching your net on with a straight stitch? as that will prevent it from stretching.  I always use a wide but short zig zag (Janome 6 wide by 3.5 long) both for pleating the net and stitching it on.  Also for the 'hip' measurement -  I ignore the 'high hip' and work with the measurement around the widest part of the buttocks as everything has to stretch to at least this measurement to allow it to be pulled on.  Ann x

Oakmaiden

Re: Where are all the tutu makers?
« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2017, 20:55:51 PM »
Hmmm.  I wonder if it is how I am pleating it that is the problem... 

I use the tutu.com woman's double pleating method, but I make my pleats quite deep.  Then I use a 3 part zig-zag to sew the pleats in place, and then a stretch stitch to attach it to the tutu.

If I pull the layer having pleated and stitched it, but before attaching it to the tutu, there is very little stretch at that point, which is what makes me think it must be how I am pleating them...

Daisy Jane

Re: Where are all the tutu makers?
« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2017, 23:20:46 PM »
I make mostly non stretch tutus but when I  do make stretch, I hand pleat my top layer only and attach it with a zigzag stitch. I make it big enough to go over the hips and so far no problems.  I have made the Tutus that dance bodice pattern 5001 which is a stretch bodice with a back opening. It can then be teamed up with a traditional skirt. ...A sort of hybrid tutu. Works really well.
Lover of tutus and all things sparkly. ......and the odd glass of the red stuff.

TTDSeminarsUK

Re: Where are all the tutu makers?
« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2017, 13:01:18 PM »
If you hand tack the pleated layer and then zig zag it on the leotard, it has a bit more give in it than if you machine it (zig zag or triple step zig zag) once pleated.  Also, if you tack it, you are able to make it a 2-3 inches bigger than you need and push the pleats together when attaching to the leotard.

Oakmaiden

Re: Where are all the tutu makers?
« Reply #10 on: September 11, 2017, 22:27:55 PM »
Ooooh thanks Suzanne (it is Suzanne, isn't it?)

I will have an experiment and see how that goes...