The Sewing Place

Lycra and poly pique

Syrinx

Lycra and poly pique
« on: August 31, 2017, 11:40:09 AM »
I think shis is probably the right place - all you clever peofle who make things out of lycra and tricksy things!

I have a 4 way stretch fabric that I need to use as a lining (IR fabric for therapeutic use) but it has to have some heavy duty stuff on it and will get a lot of use (will be a horse rug!). Now the pattern is self drafted (not a problem) but the rest is! Stretch is new to me, as is clingy fabric - how on earth do I handle it and sort the fit out? It's a circular knit I believe, sports fabric. This all means diddly squat to me!

And no 2 I will be backing it (outside of rug) with a breathable sports fabric of some kind so it can be supported and the outside will be harder wearing. I have seen some poly pique (1/2 price!) which is wicking I believe which I'm leaning towards, I have also seen sportsmesh, powermesh, and 'airmesh'. But I'm at a loss as to the best/difference. I was hoping you clever people might have some experience of a breathable, wicking fabric that is strong and lightweight!

The seams will have polypropylene webbing over them for support and to hide edges etc and hardware will be attached with the same (buckles and clips etc).

The whole concept makes perfect sense in my head but these slinky fabrics are confusing. What needles do I need? Sharps? (I'm coming from p&q!) any particular type of thread or anything to keep in mind when sewing - stitch type and length?

I feel horribly overwhelmed by 4 way stretchy stuff!

Catllar

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2017, 13:36:14 PM »
Right, for what it's worth here's my tuppence-worth. Ditch the stretch if you are backing it with non-stretch cos the non-stretch will stop the stretch from doing its thang. Problem gone.

Unless of course there is a reason why one side needs to be stretch and the other not??

I've used "Sport mesh" to adapt a lightweight jacket for MrC . This doesn't stretch and is easy to sew and is strong and resistant. But it is full of holes!

Have a look at pennineoutdoor.co.uk they specialise in the sort of stuff you are looking for.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2017, 13:40:50 PM by Catllar »
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !


Syrinx

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2017, 18:31:49 PM »
The IR fabric is essential and the purpose of the rug (therapy rug). I believe the material (a circular knit) has some stretch. It being stretchy doesn't matter as it won't have to stretch to do its stuff, just sit on the horse. It does need backing as thin and slinky and too delicate to hold the hardware by itself. The outer needs to be breathable as well and not too thick - hence looking at more sporty/dance fabrics as they are probably closest to the IR fabric.

Stretch element won't be utilised. I don't know if that makes it any difference.

BrendaP

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2017, 19:48:24 PM »
Put me out of misery, what's IR fabric  ❓
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Syrinx

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2017, 20:26:41 PM »
Woops! It's infrared fabric - very clever stuff. It's used for base layers for sports and injury rehab. Shoving a bunch in a rug for the horse as a lining but it's a stretch fabric and I have absolutely no experience of that. The outer layer needs to be a sports fabric too that wicks and is breathable - also seem to be stretch! It's a whole new world!

Yellowfeather

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2017, 21:35:57 PM »
Could you possibly use some iron on interfacing on the wrong side of the IR fabric?  i have never used it. so not sure if it will take an iron.  If it will, then the interfacing will stop the stretch.

BrendaP

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #6 on: September 01, 2017, 00:08:54 AM »
Yes, clever stuff!

So it's two layers, the IR fabric next to the horse and the wicking fabric outermost?

If all of the seams and hems are covered by the polypropylene webbing you don't have to worry about making the stitching stretch.  If you want to reduce the amount of stretch in the finished rug do as Catlar suggested and use a non-stretch, or low stretch wicking fabric.

As for needles, a regular/sharp will probably be OK.  It needs to be heavy enough to cope with the webbing.
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Thecostumelady

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #7 on: September 01, 2017, 07:45:53 AM »
Here's how I read it.  It's a fabric that stretches, but you don't need to utilise the stretch element for your project, so size and pattern wise it sounds like you could treat it just like a non stretch fabric.  In the dance world we need our seams to stretch and move and cling to the body so we always use a stitch which has movement, like a zig-zag.  You don't, so a straight stitch sounds fine.  Needle wise, you probably need to use a 'stretch' needle, (readily available).  These have a ball point tip rather than a sharp point which slides easily through the non-woven lycra fabric.  The sharps would not as easily penetrate the elastic in the lycra fabric, so the needle thread is not able to go through and pick up the bobbin thread, causing missed stitches.  Just another thought.  If you find the stretch fabric is unstable and sliding around when you are layering it with the other fabrics, you could try spraying with the 404 temporary glue to hold it.  Coming from P&Q background I'm sure you are familiar with this.  Good luck!  Ann x

BrendaP

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #8 on: September 01, 2017, 08:59:27 AM »
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Thecostumelady

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #9 on: September 01, 2017, 19:54:20 PM »
OOOPS!!!  sorry! meant 505!!!  :o Hope you haven't gone and done it yet!  Ann x

Syrinx

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2017, 16:25:22 PM »
I knew this was the right place to ask! Thank you. I'll go on a needle hunt for stretch needles (are they always called that?).

I've ordered the poly pique as it was on offer and should do the job from my limited understanding of this sort of fabric.

I was planning on using my quilting needle (90) for the webbing as it's thick, but do I need a stretch big needle instead? I've repaired rugs before (fleece) and my quilting needle and beast of a machine managed very well, but I don't want skipped stitches!

I'm hoping to get going once the fabric for the outer layer arrives and the webbing will be ordered once I've measured how much I need.

I knew what you meant about the basting spray! Hoping I won't need it though.

I think the clingy stretch nature of the fabric will help beep all of the rug in contact and will be a bit forgiving of slightly wonky pattern/sewing..

One last thing that recently occurred to me - when I cut do I want my pinking blade on the rotary cutter? And do I need to stay stitch along the edge to reduce fraying? I know it will all be covered by binding and webbing but until then I don't want it falling apart!

Syrinx

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2017, 21:42:03 PM »
So I was feeling victorious having cut out my outer and inner. I even cleverly cut the shoulder in the inner so it goes in the other direction and stretches round the shoulder (felt very pro!). Stitched the short join pretty easily.

And it all lined up to stitch outers to inners. And then it was horrible. Had to unpick the short side I did and heavily pin (pins! So many pins! I hate using pins) so it didn't shift, even with my walking foot.

Stretch needle very handy - much smoother.

I am having issues with the whole sewing two stretchy slippy things together. Slooooow and many many pins!

Syrinx

Re: Lycra and poly pique
« Reply #12 on: September 11, 2017, 19:24:01 PM »
Just waiting on my webbing, binding and hardware to arrive so I can finish it. I thought you might like a picture of my very...bright...rug.

The blue is the magic IR fabric - I don't know how you clever people sew clothes out of these slippy stretch fabrics, I take my hat off to you!