The Sewing Place

Pre-shrinking wool

sleepraptor

Pre-shrinking wool
« on: September 22, 2017, 18:19:32 PM »
I am making a wool coat (the sewing bee one that Tamara made) and the fabric is by far the most expensive I have ever bought.  I have been googling how to pre-shrink the wool (i have this wool https://www.sherwoodsfabrics.co.uk/fabrics/wool/wool-plains/sandringham in green).  I don't want to dry clean it.  The easiest way seems to be to completely wet a couple of towels and put the towels and the fabric in the tumble dryer on the high heat cycle for around 40 mins.  But I am petrified of doing this!  Is there any reason why I shouldn't do it?

I have thought about giving the retailer a call (I tried this afternoon but was closed) to get their advice but not sure whether they would tell me what to do. 

Thanks. 

arrow

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2017, 18:49:36 PM »
80% wool and 20% polyester? I would wash it on a gentle cylce in the washing machine 40C using wool detergent and see what happens. I have had simlar fabrics marked dry clean only, but it has held up very well to gentle washing in the machine. It's a chacne to take, but I think it will turn out fine with little to no shrinking.

Wool is often pretreated with out it being mentioned on the label, it's either treated with a type of resin or the shell like layers on the wool fiber is some how brushed off. With wool it's not as much the temperature or detergent that makes it shrink, it's the movement in wet condition; though temperature and soap excellerates the process. If the fibers are treated you can wash it on 40C on a reasonably gentle cycle with more drum movement than the standard wool / hand wash cycle.

Some wools are more prone to shrinking than others, merino for example doesn't shrink as easily as wool from other breeds, so it's not just the pretreatments of the fibers that makes a differece. If you want to preshrink a wool fabric 100% wool is the best, not superwash treated, and it will turn out thicker, denser and felted.

If it's a good quality it's not a bad price at all, considering it's 145 cm width. 
« Last Edit: September 22, 2017, 19:00:23 PM by arrow »

Ploshkin

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2017, 18:51:23 PM »
Why do you want to pre shrink it?  I've never pre shrunk wool fabric - I would only ever pre wash fabric when the garment is going to be washed and I don't think I would be putting a wool coat in the washing machine.
Life's too short for ironing.

sleepraptor

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2017, 19:43:37 PM »
Thanks both of you.  I think I'll ask the retailer if it's been pre-treated then. 

Ploshkin - just because everything I've read about wool says you have to pre-shrink it.  I guess as you say, I'm not going to be putting it in the washing machine.  But something might get spilt on it and need cleaning at some point.  Hmm, now you're making me think not to bother!

Efemera

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2017, 21:24:02 PM »
When I took my CGLI in the dim and distant past we had to wrap the wool fabric in wet sheets, roll it up and leave to dry.

Tamnymore

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2017, 22:14:03 PM »
As this is for a coat surely you would dry clean it when it needs cleaning. I only wash, or preshrink fabric when it is for a garment which will be washed. I've never preshrunk wool cor coats or jackets. I think you would be fine just to use it as it is.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Holly Berry

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2017, 22:28:14 PM »
I'm making a coat at the moment with 100% wool. I steam shrank it with an iron with a steam burst. You do need a table to do it on as an ironing board can stretch it.

I wouldn't normally pre shrink fabric that I'm not washing, but decided to follow the instructions in a tailoring book I'm reading. I don't know whether an outdoor coat that could get wet would shrink??

TBH I didn't notice any difference  >:)
Procrastination get behind me

fajita

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2017, 22:37:19 PM »
I bought some wool fabric today. Something like 50/50 wool/poly. Never crossed my mind it would need washing or steaming or shrinking. I was just going to make it up and dry clean periodically.

Not sure now.


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Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #8 on: September 22, 2017, 22:54:00 PM »
A coat will not be too much bother too hand in for dry cleaning. My experience with wool/polyester blends is they can even come out nicer after a wash than from dry cleaning. I have an old duffle coat, and when it was new I handed it in for dry cleaning. It's wool, with a percentage of polyester and just a bit of cashmere. It was a few years old the first time I washed it, and it had been in for dry cleaning several times, but since it was no longer brand new I took the chance.

I had it in the washing machine on 40 degrees, I had an extra rinse cycle after spinning, took it out, shook it up, stretched the seams, and I swear the wool fluffed up almost like new. It looked much better than the last times it came from the cleaners.The steaming done at the cleaners flattens the fabric, and in this case it wasn't to an advantage. I know some steam coats like these on a hanger with something that look like a vaccume nossle. I don't think I would ever dare do it with the genuine heavier duffle or some types of pure wool fabrics.

When it comes to garments like jackets and coats I think it's all about what the fabric can handle and some times dry cleaning isn't to an advantage. Wool fibers in general are fine with both types of cleaning when done right.

If the coat is all in one color, there is no problem with dyes bleeding. After washing or dry cleaning there is often a slight change in the fabric, but it's just that it's no longer brand new.

Wool can be boiled, when test square of washable pure new wool are put in a pot of boiling water, left there for about 10 minutes, picked up again, it will look just as good as the square that's never been washed. I have seen this test done on knitted wool as well as woven.


sleepraptor

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2017, 08:38:12 AM »
Thanks for the replies. 

Efemera and Holly Berry - I have read both those techniques too, they just seemed more work than the bung in the dryer approach!  My husband also questioned what would happen in the rain if it hadn't been pre-shrunk and I don't know the answer. 

I'll see if the retailer has any advice and if not then have to bite the bullet and try once of the approaches. 

Ploshkin

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2017, 10:10:39 AM »
I've worn pure wool coats and jackets that I've made in the rain and they're just fine.     Sheep don't shrink and they get rained on all the time here.  I think you would, at the very least, have to go swimming in it for anything to happen.
You use the shrinking qualities to your advantage in construction for easing, shaping collars, setting in sleeves etc.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2017, 10:12:18 AM by Ploshkin »
Life's too short for ironing.

Surest1tch

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2017, 14:32:00 PM »
Wash it in a gentle cycle by all means but I really wouldn't tumble dry it, you could end up felting it.

Roger

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #12 on: September 23, 2017, 22:54:01 PM »
I got some lovely herringbone purple wool flannel to make warm winter salwar.

I washed the fabric on a wool setting at 40 I think, dried and ironed it before cutting, I was relieved I did. It lost a fair bit of width...

Reminded me of duck... I lost about a 3rd during the wash, but ironing helped, and the trousers have held well ever,  although it took a lot of thread with over cast edges and then reinforcing with a compact zig zag on crotch and inner thigh seams.
A bit of a vintage sewing machine nut! Singers: 500a, 401g, 48k Elnas: lotus SP & grasshopper, Bernina 530-2 F+R 504, Pfaff 30, Cresta T-132

Ohsewsimple

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #13 on: September 24, 2017, 12:51:12 PM »
I always steam mine before using.  I wouldn't be washing a coat, depending on the inner structure of course.  Any interfacing used would also be shrunk. 

Missie

Re: Pre-shrinking wool
« Reply #14 on: September 24, 2017, 14:42:58 PM »
I'm making a coat at the moment with 100% wool. I steam shrank it with an iron with a steam burst.

Yep, that is what I did and was how I was taught!