Petite and Sewing : Alterations and Proportion Challenges

[lakaribane]

So, are there any Petites on this board? I'm looking for my people 

I'll go first. I am 1,53 m or approx 5ft "Tall". An hourglass figure, proportional as far as I can tell, with the typical Petite scaled down figure:

- Narrow shoulders, though slightly forward;
- Shorter everywhere : torso, arms, legs.

I wear a 32C/D (depending on brand) bra and I have a low, wide, curvy butt. I wear a Burda 38Regular/19Petite, with alterations and a McVoguerickKS 10 or 12.

My main alterations are:
- Shorten bodices, bottoms, sleeves;
- Narrow shoulders;
- Narrow or raise necklines;
- Scale down details such as collars, pockets, ruffles etc.

My favorite decade for retro looks is the 50s with it's emphasis on the waist (my best asset) but I am growing more and more obsessed with the 40s.

My favorite brand is Burdastyle but, if I can get the right info, I alter most brands EXCEPT the Popular Hoaxes that are Colette, BHL and TATB. Those, I stay away from. And throw salt.

Bootstrap Fashion (Lekala), while not perfect, is a game changer.

So, If you are Petite, raise your hand and share with the class, please! 

[fajita]

I'm not, but wish you luck in finding 'your people' 

[Vegegrow]

Does 5ft 3 qualify ... I shorten sleeves and narrow shoulders.. I don't wear fitted clothing so don't shorten at waistline I usually just hold up the pattern piece against myself and decide  ...I don't make trousers I can buy a pair of stretch jeans  for £12 that are comfortable and suit my farm life style.. perhaps one day when I have more me time 

[b15erk]

There's a lovely blog - no longer active unfortunately, but there is a wealth of information for those of you who are petite.

La Sewista is to be found here : http://lasewist.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-min=2013-01-01T00:00:00-05:00&updated-max=2014-01-01T00:00:00-05:00&max-results=50

Bunny has lots of tutorials, and great general sewing info.  If you don't already know this blog, it may be worth giving it a look.

Jessie

[Mocarroll]

You must be my sister! Let me qualify that, my slimmer sister!
I am 5ft 1” tall and while I used to be tiny, middle age has crept up on me and I am now rectangular shaped, probably B38 W31 H38 but my frame is still small. I have to shorten shoulders and bodice. I have discovered that most of my “shortness” is between shoulder and bust so I tend to do alterations on the armscye,particularly with low necklines. I usually start with a size 14. In theory I don’t need a FBA but I think I might be better starting with a 12.
Arms are a problem, mine are short and with some patterns, notably Burda, I sometimes have to cut off 4inches. I think they model them on monkeys!
Hoping to go on a course soon which will help me identify my fitting problems and make a block to suit me.

[Ploshkin]

I wouldn't class myself as petite - I've always been on the cusp.  I'm 5' 2" but have a decent bit of leg length (my DH who is 5' 10" has been known to inadvertently wear my trousers!).  I do have to do a lot of shortening in the body and sleeves.
I have a short neck so really can't do cowls or big collars.  I also find these days that I always have to narrow the shoulders which didn't used to be a problem - I think the patterns have changed, not my shoulders.  I'm fortunate that I have always been able to cut a 10/ 12 / 14 (depending on make of pattern) and the bust is spot on.

[lakaribane]

Hello, everyone and thank you for the replies!

Ok, mass reply because today promises to be a busy day.

@fajita
thank you for the wishes!

@vegegrow and @ploshkin
I think you are Petite, based on your total height. Burdastyle considers Petite to be 1,60m and shorter, their standard size being 1,68cm. A lot of Petites have different body types and proportions.

@Mocarroll
Into my arms!  And you love Burda, even better! On the issue of figuring out alterations, Burdastyle has slopers on the US site...which are actually patterns from the magazines but you can see them here:

http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns?creator=6&for=1&most_recent=1&pattern_garment_type=36

IIRC, the bodice and skirt patterns used are from the November 2012(?) issue.

Unfortunately, unlike the US Big4 fitting blocks, Burda only marks the waistline but you can use the size chart measurements to guide you.

[lakaribane]

Have any of you tried the custom-fit patterns of Lekala or Bootstrap Fashion?

I went with BSF (no Paypal so my brother buys me their savings card) and tried two of their trouser patterns, the Vado Jeans and pants patterns. Complete dud at the hips. The system can't seem to understand that I have a butt AND hips And a slightly rounded belly. The potential is there but, though I selected No Stretch, I had to use some of my 1in insurance seams. Quel dommage!

HOWEVER, the knee placement was perfect for me, it was amazing! I wrote to them about my experience but no reply. IF they fix their system, I think I can get great pants from it.

The dresses and tops mostly work well, I do the forward shoulder alteration myself. But the skirts are too short! 46cm, a length I wore in college but  not anymore!

The only thing to remember is that the pattern preview is accurate. For example, I made a peplum top and I could see that it was drop-waisted on the illustration AND the preview. Ignored it and lived to regret that. I want to make it again but I will raise the waistline more and maybe lengthen the peplum to compensate.

Now I want to explore their Pro Fit options because they list the system standard for a ton of measurements and you can enter your own personal variations on that. How cool is that?!?!

[lakaribane]

And, lastly, a little rant.

When I discovered Burdastyle Petite, back then a separate special issue, it changed my life. I still need alterations but it's much closer to normal for me.

HOWEVER Burda, and most other brands, assume any Petite only needs length alterations. Everything else stays the same on the pattern. So not my reality.

I've had good experiences with Skinny Bitch, Curvy Chick patterns but it's an Indie specifically for Petites and more expensive. I'm waiting on Betsy, the owner, to put out a blazer pattern and then I am all set. (Lies, all lies! )