The Sewing Place

How to draft a roll neck?

Francesca

How to draft a roll neck?
« on: November 13, 2017, 15:10:13 PM »
I have just printed out and ready to cut a crew-neck swing dress. I really want to add a roll neck to it however.

I understand a simple roll neck can be created by just increasing the height of the neckband, however my concern is that will give a more cowly look. I really want something that is fairly upright. The fabric is a drapey viscose jersey so perhaps that isn't possible but I would still like to limit the cowliness of it as much as possible.

How exactly can I go about this? I was thinking I might need to adjust the neckline in smaller, but it's a fairly tight crew and I have a large neck so it might be alright.

Starryfish

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2017, 15:46:51 PM »
https://www.stylearc.com/wp-content/uploads/T010-Debra-Zebra-Top.jpg

I have made this top which has a fairly close fitting roll neck. The pattern piece just extends upwards from the front/back, when made the roll is folded down on the inside and stitched down. Is this the sort of thing you were thinking of?

Greybird

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2017, 15:59:04 PM »
The "uprightness" of a roll neck depends a lot on the size of the neckline. If the neckline is high and hugs the bottom of the neck it will be a close fitting upright roll. If the neckline is lower and scooped, the roll will sit on the neckline and probably fall forward in the front. You can adjust this somewhat by the  height of the roll piece - the deeper you cut the fabric, the more it will fall. If you cut it shallower it may stand up more if the fabric is a firmish one. A cowl neck is usually cut so that it starts at the measurement needed to fit the neckline, widens out as far as the foldline and then narrows back in again.

Hope this makes sense - it was hard to describe!

Vegegrow

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2017, 19:42:36 PM »
How low is the neck cut on your pattern .. as a cowl neck fan I put it on a lot of tops  If my neck is warm so am I... they vary with the cut of the neck and the stiffness off the fabric
"The only place where housework comes before needlework is in the dictionary." ~Mary Kurtz

Francesca

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2017, 21:48:40 PM »
Finished item pic attached. But I haven't yet traced and checked it for my particular size.

I would like to get something that looks like this. Not too wrinkly, one fold-over.


Bodgeitandscarper

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2017, 22:03:24 PM »
Never done a roll neck, but I would assume you need to measure your neck and add a little to get the ease you want?  Do you have a roll neck top you could measure?

Holly Berry

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #6 on: November 14, 2017, 11:40:42 AM »
Measure the circumference of your neck where you want the bottom edge of the roll to be, ie round your neck. Then measure the circumference of the neck edge where it joins the body of the garment.

The roll neck is then a tube folded in half attached to the neck edge and then folded down. You will need to work out the depth of the fold down.

Attached is a very crude drawing of the pattern piece, sorry my computer skills don’t match my sewing skills!! The widest part top and bottom is the circumference of the neck edge and the fold line is the bottom edge of the roll. The height depends on how high you want it to be.

The neck edge of the garment should ideally be where your neck meets your shoulder. The slope is the measurement from the neck edge to vertical of you neck. If the neck edge is really close into your neck then it’s virtually a tube. In the picture the neck edge sits much lower and therefore requires more of a flare.

Hope that helps
« Last Edit: November 14, 2017, 11:47:00 AM by Holly Berry »
Procrastination get behind me 

b15erk

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2017, 11:56:50 AM »
Just been watching an old episode of Fit2Stitch, and Peggy Sagers shows you how to do it Fran.  Not sure how much detail she is going to go into (I paused the video to write this).  Instructions for a roll neck start at 17.46.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yy0YOJ85NBM

Hope it helps.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Sewbee

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2017, 12:03:23 PM »
Finished item pic attached. But I haven't yet traced and checked it for my particular size.

I would like to get something that looks like this. Not too wrinkly, one fold-over.



This would be a great tunic over leggings or even tights. I love it! Is it StyleArc?

Francesca

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2017, 12:08:16 PM »
This would be a great tunic over leggings or even tights. I love it! Is it StyleArc?

That's just a picture I found online of what I want the neck to look like. The pattern is Seamwork Piedra.

I plan to make a few as work dresses. Black, navy, burgundy. Wear with tights and nice boots and a necklace. Hair up, no make-up, easy peasy!

Sewbee

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #10 on: November 14, 2017, 12:14:18 PM »
That's just a picture I found online of what I want the neck to look like. The pattern is Seamwork Piedra.

I plan to make a few as work dresses. Black, navy, burgundy. Wear with tights and nice boots and a necklace. Hair up, no make-up, easy peasy!

I think I will see if I can find a similar pattern because it's ideal for covering up the fact I have no waist and it would show off "nice legs" :) It's taking me a while to find patterns that would work for me but I am noting them as I go along in the hopes I can stock up in any Black Friday sales that might come about.

I've liked quite a few of the items you've listed, Fran, so I am watching you!!  :D

Francesca

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #11 on: November 14, 2017, 16:30:07 PM »
You can get the Seamwork Piedra by signing up to their magazine for a month. I pay 6 USD so about £4.50. One month of membership gives you 3 credits. The Piedra is one so that's two more credits to use on patterns from the rest of their library. They aren't the most wonderfully drafted patterns, but they're cheap and simple. Oh and cancelling the subscription is easy it's just a button to press on the site.

Francesca

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #12 on: December 07, 2017, 12:25:29 PM »
Well I'm glad I decided to make the dress once through as standard before I cut a rollneck...

The neckline is HUGE oh and also the dress is horrible.

OK well it's not HORRIBLE, it's just.... very sack like. I know that was intended but it just hits in the wrong places. The sleeves feel quite loose and it's soooo long, down to mid calf.

Also, the trapeze bit doesn't trapeze over my hips well enough. If I made it again, I need more fullness at the hipline and need to make it much, much shorter. I think because I am short in the waist, the waistline on the pattern is hitting somewhere more like upper thigh which means I'm getting the waist-width at the hip and it's clinging - does that make sense?

May as well plough on with it even if it becomes nothing more than a nightgown - it'll be a comfy one!

I'm starting to think I really need to stop buying patterns and just work on perfecting my own block. Having seen enough patterns now, I'm fairly confident in drafting the right shape for simple things like this. If I could get my own block up and running, I don't think it would be hard for me to draft a simple trapeze dress but one that has the right lengths between bust, waist and hip and the right circumferences.

I'm going to finish this, but I've decided my next project will be my coat (I want it to enjoy in January) and after that I really need to tackle my block.

Lizzy777

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #13 on: December 08, 2017, 10:24:47 AM »
That's such a shame Fran.

I saw this pattern this morning! It's a new look pattern though and they don't do large sizes as such but it looks like quite a wide dress?

https://www.simplicitynewlook.com/6525

Worth a look maybe?

I bought this pattern yesterday. It goes up to a size 24.

https://www.simplicitynewlook.com/6525




Francesca

Re: How to draft a roll neck?
« Reply #14 on: December 08, 2017, 10:49:33 AM »
Oooh I love that one with the frill! 20 is fine for me on something like this. I would have to do an FBA anyway from the 20 (narrow shoulders) and drafting the trapeze out is easy too.

But this is why I must get on with my block, because I know by looking at this that I could draft it from a knit block so easily!

(Still might ask Father Christmas if he can pop it in my stocking).