The Sewing Place

Measuring the stretch of knits?

sewingj

Measuring the stretch of knits?
« on: November 21, 2017, 07:31:03 AM »
I`m fairly new to sewing knit fabrics - I`m about to start a pattern which tells me to measure the stretch of a 4inch piece of "crosswise folded" fabric.  I think "crosswise" means folded diagonally but I`m starting to doubt myself!

Stitchalot

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2017, 08:06:53 AM »
That’s a vey logical assumption to make. However, what it means is the direction from one selvege edge to the other. All knits have varying degrees of stretch in this direction. The lengthwise direction (same direction as the selvage) may have any amount, from none to lots of stretch. Confusingly,  a fabric which only has stretch width-wise is often called 2-way stretch and if it stretches in both directions it’s called 4-way. Good luck with your project!

Efemera

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2017, 08:45:22 AM »
I’ve never measured any knits... every piece of knit fabric behaves differently. I find the stretchier the fabric then I may go down a size.

daisy

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2017, 10:16:29 AM »
That "crosswise folded" term would have thrown me too  :S
I don't sew with knits half as much as I should so I'm no expert, but I've referred back to this article a few times when trying to figure out if a knit fabric has a suitable stretch for a pattern: https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2014/04/about-knit-fabrics-what-and-where.html

Sewingsue

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2017, 10:58:13 AM »
I suspect having to work out the stretch and suitability of different knits puts a lot of people off starting to work with them.
Bernina Aurora 440QE, Brother BC-2500, Singer 99K (1938), Silver Viscount 620D overlocker.

hernibs

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #5 on: November 22, 2017, 10:27:11 AM »
This is a timely thread for me....I am endeavouring to do more knits as they are quick to do and I like not having to 'set in sleeves' etc...hate that job.
One point, on the back of a pattern which is for stretch knits it usually gives you a guide as to how far a fabric needs to stretch to be correct for the pattern use.

I have sewed fleece and some lighter knits, stretch jersey etc but am wondering have any of you used the chunkier knits to make a sweater weight garment?  There is one on Fabric Godmother I'm sort of interested in.....(see if I can link)
http://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/ottavio-wool-mix-knit-pink-blue/

Thoughts and advice welcome - my aim is to make a quick warm sweater......

Ohsewsimple

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2017, 10:53:26 AM »
If using patterns from the big companies they have a stretch guide on the back of the envelopes to determine if your chosen fabric is right. 

Acorn

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #7 on: November 22, 2017, 18:47:30 PM »
I have a printed out stretch guide that shows what percentage of stretch your fabric has - it has a scale on it and you stretch a piece of the fabric and see how far it goes.  It was free from one of the indie pattern companies, but I can't remember which one.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Holly Berry

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #8 on: November 23, 2017, 10:11:11 AM »
Another thing you have to bear in mind is recovery. If the fabric doesn’t return to the 4inches or very near to it, it’s likely to “bag” on certain garments. This would be important for trousers/leggings, straight dresses when sitting down, and for sports, dance  and swimming garments.

Elastane (Lycra/Spandex) is added to allow the fabric to stretch and return.
Procrastination get behind me 

Ohsewsimple

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #9 on: November 23, 2017, 19:16:50 PM »
Another thing you have to bear in mind is recovery.

Elastane (Lycra/Spandex) is added to allow the fabric to stretch and return.

Yes, I've learnt over the years not to buy interlock for tee shirts.  I usually only buy jersey with elastane in it.  Sweater knits are different. 

hernibs

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #10 on: November 23, 2017, 19:33:19 PM »
Yes, I've learnt over the years not to buy interlock for tee shirts.  I usually only buy jersey with elastane in it.  Sweater knits are different.

So no one has yet come forward to let me know if they have used a sweater knit to sew a sweater suitable for winter.
I am interested to hear the pros and cons of the heavier jersey qualities.
Do tell!

hernibs

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #11 on: November 23, 2017, 19:34:05 PM »
Oh dear, I should not start a sentence with 'So'  -  so sorry!!

Ohsewsimple

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #12 on: November 23, 2017, 19:38:07 PM »
Oh dear, I should not start a sentence with 'So'  -  so sorry!!

 0_0 0_0 0_0

Tamnymore

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #13 on: November 23, 2017, 19:46:58 PM »
Start your sentences with 'sew' rather than 'so'......  :D
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

hernibs

Re: Measuring the stretch of knits?
« Reply #14 on: November 23, 2017, 19:49:23 PM »
Like that!!