The Sewing Place

FBA on assemetrical front

Mocarroll

FBA on assemetrical front
« on: December 07, 2017, 11:03:00 AM »
Good morning lovely people.  I need some help. I have just spent a morning at the Fit2sew school in Sanderstead where Mandy teaches the Palmer Pletsch method of tissue fitting. It was very valuable and confirmed what I already know about my fitting issues but wasn’t sure how to fix, especially at the back.  What I’m not sure of is how to generalise this to specific patterns, taking into consideration the design ease.
I have very unwisely chosen this pattern https://www.simplicitynewlook.com/6000 to make view D.
My high bust measurement indicates a size 12 - 35.5 inches but my full bust is 37.5 inches. There is 3inches design ease making the finished size 12 at 37 inches.
I have had a go at the FBA by cutting the skirt front ta the waistline and doing a 1.5 inch FBA on each side, creating 2bust darts. I need that extra width at the waist (!) and will reattach the skirt grading to a 14.
Am I on the right track, I really do not want to make a toile, or shall I forget this view and just try a more straightforward style to put into practise what I have learned?

Holly Berry

Re: FBA on assemetrical front
« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2017, 12:15:08 PM »
Forget the ease at this stage. View D is symmetrical and the bodice is on a fold, do you mean C ?

If it is D you are correct cutting off at waist. Make your line 1 go through the centre of the waist dart and up to 1/3 of arm hole passing through the bust apex. If the dart isn’t directly underneath the BA still draw through the centre of the dart, the intersection will now be to the side of BA.  Line 2 through centre of side bust dart to BA (or intersection of line  1.)Line 3 horizontally down CF. Adjust by the distance between you CF and the patterns CF. Lower the bust apex if yours is different to the patterns after doing the FB.
I’m assuming you’ve covered this on your course?

You may find that the bust adjustment gives you enough increase at the waist. The dart legs will need to be redrawn for the waist dart. Use the original dart width and draw upto 1” from the bust apex.(or in line with original position)Try the pattern on. Make sure the CF meets your CF. If the side seams don’t meet you’ll need to add extra on the side seams, front and back o keep side seams perpendicular. The dart width and side seam adjustment will need to be added to the skirt.

Hopefully this makes sense! I find it easier to do than explain! If you’ve got the Palmer Pletsch Fit for Real People book it’s on page 142.



Procrastination get behind me

Mocarroll

Re: FBA on assemetrical front
« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2017, 13:36:34 PM »
Thank you Holly Berry and, yes, I didn’t mean view D, I was hoping to try view C with all those side pleats, is that madness?

Holly Berry

Re: FBA on assemetrical fron
« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2017, 14:36:16 PM »
I’ve not done an FBA on dart like this before, so this is just an idea. Hopefully some who has done one before will be along soon.

I would be tempted initially to cut the pattern to your actual bust size and adjust the upper bust area on the neck line, taking out the excess in a slash down the centre front of the pattern. Probably a toile just of the bodice might be a good idea.

Otherwise you would have to do a FBA on both sides, closing the dart on the non dart side and transferring excess to the darts/gathers on the other side.
Procrastination get behind me