How to hem a circle skirt (stretch fabric)

[Vivianne]

So I’ve made multiple circle skirts by hand but now the first with my sewing machine. If you do it by hand you can cheat a little bit with the machine I just can’t get it right.

This is a full circle skirt. If I do not stretch the fabric when guiding it along the machine, it will ‘grab’ more fabric and make ruffles. If I do stretch it, it also makes ruffles. I used a regular running stitch, maybe that is the issue?

Attached a few photos to show the issue. The beginning went great as i just stitched straight, no ruffles. But at some point there is fabric left ‘over’. The hem is around 1 cm high.

Any tips how to get this right? Much appreciated!

[Vivianne]

Also I wasn’t sure if it’s in the right section of the forum. If Ra not please let me know!

[sewingj]

this is good for hemming knit fabrics:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00T6R09XQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it comes from America but usually very quickly

You iron it on at the edge of the fabric and then turn the hem over it - it won`t fray so you only need a single hem. You could then sew it with a straight stitch - I would probably use a narrow zig-zag. It gives a nice clean line at the fold and stops the wrinkles 
(Having said that I haven`t actually used it on a circular skirt but I think it would be fine - it is an inch wide so possibly you might want to cut it in half so you aren`t turning up so much)

[Kad]

I always run a line of gathering stitches ( hand or machine) about  5/6mm from the finished edge and then draw this up gently to absorb the excess fabric into the hem. This method ensures that there aren't any unsightly pleats/lumps etc.

[b15erk]

What Kad said.  It works really well, and the gathering thread takes up the extra fabric.

Jessie

[BrendaP]

If your machine is stretching the fabric out it may be that the presser foot tension needs to be reduced.

The Knit 'n' Stable tape helps; just iron it on all around the edge of the fabric.

Depending on what stitches you have on your machine, overcast or zig-zag over the Knit 'n' Stable tape, close to the edge and trim neatly if necessary (this is where an overlocker makes it a doddle!) and turn the hem.  Then depending on personal preference and the fabric  being used either use a twin needle to sew a double row of topstitching or fold the hem back do that you can use the blind stitch option with  the 3 or 4 stitches going into the overcast or zig-zag and the stitch which swings to the left just going into the main fabric.

[BrendaP]

Also, how do you cycle with a full circle skirt (from taille to knee)? The skirt just keeps on getting in the wheels

[Kad]

My grandma used to use a netting needle and fine cord to construct a piece of fine guage netting that fitted  from one side of the back wheel axle, over the mudguard and down to the axle on the other side of the wheel. The fine guage netting prevent long skirts from catching in the rear wheel.
They were very common years ago, indeed she used to be an outworker for a bicycle shop in Coventry.

I'd have thought that there's more problems with the skirt blowing about in the breeze and showing your ' next week's washing' 

[Vivianne]

My grandma used to use a netting needle and fine cord to construct a piece of fine guage netting that fitted  from one side of the back wheel axle, over the mudguard and down to the axle on the other side of the wheel. The fine guage netting prevent long skirts from catching in the rear wheel.
They were very common years ago, indeed she used to be an outworker for a bicycle shop in Coventry.

I'd have thought that there's more problems with the skirt blowing about in the breeze and showing your ' next week's washing' 

Haha that is actually a pretty good idea! I’m currently at work and was thinking to just bundle up my skirt and tie it with my hair elastic

[Vivianne]

I always run a line of gathering stitches ( hand or machine) about  5/6mm from the finished edge and then draw this up gently to absorb the excess fabric into the hem. This method ensures that there aren't any unsightly pleats/lumps etc.

I responded to your comment but doesn’t look like it posted! I’m not sure how to get this working. Do you add the gathering stitch before folding the fabric to make the hem? Do you have an example so I can figure out the steps?

If your machine is stretching the fabric out it may be that the presser foot tension needs to be reduced.

The Knit 'n' Stable tape helps; just iron it on all around the edge of the fabric.

Depending on what stitches you have on your machine, overcast or zig-zag over the Knit 'n' Stable tape, close to the edge and trim neatly if necessary (this is where an overlocker makes it a doddle!) and turn the hem.  Then depending on personal preference and the fabric  being used either use a twin needle to sew a double row of topstitching or fold the hem back do that you can use the blind stitch option with  the 3 or 4 stitches going into the overcast or zig-zag and the stitch which swings to the left just going into the main fabric.

The machine doesn’t stretch the fabric when adding regular stitches. I stretch it a little when adding the hem, otherwise it ‘catches’ more fabric than needed and that results in the ruffles.

Is that tape the same idea as biasband? I have a bunch of that laying around and it kind of sounds like the same idea. I’m still figuring out how to get good zig zag stitches on the machine. If I do it close to the edge with this stretch fabric, the needles pushes the fabric away and will get knotted in itself.

Any tips?

[Catllar]

Simple - tuck skirt in knickers - voila.

[Kad]

I always run a line of gathering stitches ( hand or machine) about  5/6mm from the finished edge and then draw this up gently to absorb the excess fabric into the hem. This method ensures that there aren't any unsightly pleats/lumps etc.

I finish the raw edge first and then pin and press the hem up before sewing the line of gathering stitches. You can then gather the fabric as you sew, by hand or machine, around the circumference.

[Lizzy777]

I thought this was an interesting and easier way of doing the hem although I would use tape that was closer to the colour of the skirt, although the skirt on the site looks great too! I have to admit I haven't ever sewn a circular skirt (not sure why I haven't though).

http://www.cucicucicoo.com/2017/03/easy-way-to-hem-a-circle-skirt-bias-tape/


Hope you sort it out soon.

[Jo]

There are several ways to hem, most of them mentioned above. I'm too lazy tho, and usually use a very narrow hem on circle skirts (about 1/4 inch). I fold about 1-2 inches in front of the presser foot using a seam gauge, sew, fold a bit more...well, you get the idea. The trick is to make sure you are folding perpendicularly, otherwise you get ripples. Does take forever tho
Another option is to use horsehair braid. Thant makes it super easy, but it gives a bit more volume to the hem.

[BrendaP]

Is that tape the same idea as biasband? I have a bunch of that laying around and it kind of sounds like the same idea. I’m still figuring out how to get good zig zag stitches on the machine. If I do it close to the edge with this stretch fabric, the needles pushes the fabric away and will get knotted in itself.

The tape is a long strip of fusable stretch/knit interfacing and goes between two layers of fabric. 

When you say biasband I think you mean a strip of woven fabric cut at 45° to the straight grain.  That could be used on a circular hem if you were using woven fabric; you would allow the strip to stretch very slightly as you stitch it to the bottom of the skirt and then turn it and allow the natural movement of the bias to pull it in so that you don't get wrinkles when the second side of the strip is stitched down.  The bias strip ends up on the inside surface of the fabric, not between two layers.

If you are having problems stitching very close to the edge of the fabric try putting tissue paper underneath.  Left over bits of pattern tissue is fine and can be torn away afterwards.