The Sewing Place

How did they do this? (skirt gather)

Roger

How did they do this? (skirt gather)
« on: December 19, 2017, 21:28:02 PM »
Hi All,
I was taking a look at (shh) Pinterest, and the Mrs sneaks a peak over my shoulder and was cooing over this...

I started a bit of a dissection looks like an RTW underskirt (and the colours arent a good match in my opinion) - but the over skirt rear overlapping tail arrangement is quite something. I thought it was probably a folded/pleated semi circle, but wanted to ask in case anyone had any better ideas or even a name for the technique?

Thanks in advance

Roger
A bit of a vintage sewing machine nut! Singers: 500a, 401g, 48k Elnas: lotus SP & grasshopper, Bernina 530-2 F+R 504, Pfaff 30, Cresta T-132

datcat23

Re: How did they do this? (skirt gather)
« Reply #1 on: December 19, 2017, 21:41:14 PM »
The underskirt picks up the colours in the top/hood, which I think is why that colour was chosen.  It also helps the gold to pop. 

As for the overskirt, it looks like it might be an oval, perhaps cut with the waist area off-centre, and then heavily gathered at the centre back.  Note also, that it has a flared frill (not quite gathered) perhaps that is utilising the selvedges of a sari panel, to give that gold edging.   

Vegegrow

Re: How did they do this? (skirt gather)
« Reply #2 on: December 19, 2017, 21:41:24 PM »
totally random reply but how about looking at the tail pattern for  swags and tails curtain they hang like that http://www.merrick-day.com/acatalog/The_Swag_and_Tail_Design_and_Pattern_Book.html      scroll down on this page
"The only place where housework comes before needlework is in the dictionary." ~Mary Kurtz

BrendaP

Re: How did they do this? (skirt gather)
« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2017, 09:05:14 AM »
Have a look at http://carolinejoynson.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/bustle-skirts.html.

The overskirt is much longer at the back than at the sides, and like the curtain tails, it's that which enables the pleated fabric to fall in a zig-zag fashion.
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Roger

Re: How did they do this? (skirt gather)
« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2017, 21:09:59 PM »
Thanks all!

I've attached Vege's pic below for future reference, its really handy. Datcat's oval shaped drape combined with Vege's diagram really helps me get my head around the build.

Brenda, the zip fitting is an aspect I hadnt considered.. Zips arent usually used in belly dance kit, I suspect the motions arent kind on zips/clasps so ties tend to be preferred even for tops.

Thats given me some ideas for when I get round to it. I have a lovely black (and diamond bling) extra long Sari that needs converting into a circle skirt, top and possibly bustle now... at least I seem to have acres of the material although the bling will need some tactical cutting tho...
A bit of a vintage sewing machine nut! Singers: 500a, 401g, 48k Elnas: lotus SP & grasshopper, Bernina 530-2 F+R 504, Pfaff 30, Cresta T-132

CarolC

Re: How did they do this? (skirt gather)
« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2017, 09:55:42 AM »
What a nice outfit! You could do it as an offset circle, but I think what they actually did is much simpler and like the bustle skirt that Brenda linked to. It would lend itself to sari-converting (which is also what I think they did).

It looks to me like the outer layer is simply a long, narrow rectangle of material with an extra sewn on border, cut along the lengthwise grain to the desired width and made significantly longer than the waist measurement. The excess, which is probably seamed along the upper edge beyond the waist opening, then falls down at the back into that tail.

If you look at the link Breda posted (http://carolinejoynson.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/bustle-skirts.html), you can clearly see how the white threads on the selvage edge form exactly those pleats where the back of the rectangle is longer than the body. I don't think there is a zip, as the upper edge of your skirt has gathers suggestive of elastic, but you could use a zip if you wanted to.

There is also what might be a diagonal seam on the right side that suggests they pieced in an extra triangular panel to give a better fall at the back. If you played around draping the sari, without cutting it, I think you'd find a good way to make it work quite easily.

Morgan

Re: How did they do this? (skirt gather)
« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2017, 12:20:03 PM »
It's a variation of a cascading flounce.


Two ways of getting the effect - flat pattern drafting or draping
- to use the properties of bias so that there is minimal fabric at the waist - the pattern pieces would be a variation on a spiral, like an asymmetric spiral
or
- stitch together the short ends of a long length of fabric so you have a band. ( the fabric length can be two or more pieces joined together).
On one long edge that will become the waist, divide it into 4 equal parts and mark the points CF, CB, S1 and S2.
Fold the fabric length so that S1 and S2 are on CB.
Put the fabric on a body with CB (S1 and S2) and CF in the correct position.
place a strong elastic band around the waist over the fabric.
Next adjust the fabric to form pleats/flutes by pulling up the fabric of S1/S2  above the elastic where you want to shorten the length and then adjust the fall of the fluted pleats at the back.
Draw the waist stitching ling and tack/baste the pleats.
With some forethought, place the joining seam so that it's hidden by a pleat near the side.  You can unpick the top section of the seam to insert a zip before attaching a waistband.  (you'll need to unpick a short section of the seam to remove the tacked/pinned pleated skirt from the body before cutting away the excess fabric above what will be the waist seam. 

Marniesews

Re: How did they do this? (skirt gather)
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2018, 22:21:48 PM »
I've not been about for a couple of months probably, so this is a nice post to find on my return.  :D

I don't have any immediate idea of how I'd use this skirt feature right now but it appeals to me so I've printed the thread to file to keep for future reference - if only I'd done that more with TSF!

Do tell us which method you go with and some pics of the results please Roger.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2018, 22:53:37 PM by Marniesews »
Aka Jacky F in a former life...

Sewingsue

Re: How did they do this? (skirt gather)
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2018, 22:34:37 PM »
I've printed the thread to file to keep for future reference - if only I'd done that more with TSF!

I'm trying to forget all the 'stuff' I had filed in TSF for future use.
Bernina Aurora 440QE, Brother BC-2500, Singer 99K (1938), Silver Viscount 620D overlocker.

Roger

Re: How did they do this? (skirt gather)
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2018, 22:42:33 PM »
Thanks Carol and Morgan,

I think I followed your description Morgan I might need to sit down with some paper and draw...

The below pic looked quite good too.

Good to see you about Jackie, glad this was interesting,
A bit of a vintage sewing machine nut! Singers: 500a, 401g, 48k Elnas: lotus SP & grasshopper, Bernina 530-2 F+R 504, Pfaff 30, Cresta T-132