The Sewing Place

Silhouette/Body shapers

Holly Berry

Silhouette/Body shapers
« on: March 14, 2017, 17:03:46 PM »
I was looking to get the Craftsy course until I saw it had gone up from £19 to £38  :(

Could someone in the know tell me please, the fabric I need to make these. At the moment I'm only looking to make a slip to wear under jersey dresses, similar to one I bought from M&S. The Craftsy course mentioned powernet, but I haven't a clue as to what to buy when I look on Sewing Chest.

This is the M&S one, firm control,

Thank you
Procrastination get behind me 

Maximum

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2017, 18:14:37 PM »
I've never made one but if you email The Sewing Chest they are really friendly and helpful

Francesca

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2017, 11:15:48 AM »
Keep an eye on the Craftsy class cost. They have regular sales. A bit like DFS there never is truly a "full" price. It'll go back down, usually around bank holidays or American holidays.

Francesca

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2017, 11:17:21 AM »
As for powernet/mesh the English Couture Company sells it in two weights. Here is the medium they also do a lightweight. I expect medium would give you firm control.

Marniesews

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2017, 12:13:06 PM »
You'll see powernet and powermesh most frequently in the retailers' dance fabric sections. They'll be 150cm wide there (ECC is the first place I've come across it at 90cm) but the don't always say if they're light hold or medium hold as they're generally sold for their transparent stretch in dance dresses rather than their strength of hold. Generally speaking I always assume that if they're available in multicolours, they'd be light hold and medium/firm if just in black and nude.

The lighter mesh would be very suitable for the Vogue Slip in pattern 1386 which Sandra Betzina demonstrated in the Power Sewing video no. 226. It's not a body shaper but ideal for stopping jersey dresses from sitting on your least favourite bumps! I came across it by accident and kept the tab open to watch it later but I now discover I missed my chance to watch it free and it's now pay to view.  :(
Aka Jacky F in a former life...

DementedFairy

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2017, 19:16:09 PM »
I was looking to get the Craftsy course until I saw it had gone up from £19 to £38  :(

Could someone in the know tell me please, the fabric I need to make these. At the moment I'm only looking to make a slip to wear under jersey dresses, similar to one I bought from M&S. The Craftsy course mentioned powernet, but I haven't a clue as to what to buy when I look on Sewing Chest.

This is the M&S one, firm control,

Thank you

I was chuffed to find M&S slips on sale at the local market for about 3 or 4 quid...not worth making them at that price!
C'est moi!

Holly Berry

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2017, 22:22:32 PM »
Thanks for all the replies.

As for powernet/mesh the English Couture Company sells it in two weights. Here is the medium they also do a lightweight. I expect medium would give you firm control.

I will try them, she was really helpful when I enquired about speed tailoring.
You'll see powernet and powermesh most frequently in the retailers' dance fabric sections. They'll be 150cm wide there (ECC is the first place I've come across it at 90cm) but the don't always say if they're light hold or medium hold as they're generally sold for their transparent stretch in dance dresses rather than their strength of hold. Generally speaking I always assume that if they're available in multicolours, they'd be light hold and medium/firm if just in black and nude

Am I right in the assumption that the higher the amount of Lycra the firmer the fabric? I saw some at 6% and some at 16% I understand it will have more stretch and recovery.
Procrastination get behind me 

BrendaP

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2017, 00:45:13 AM »
For an explanation in lay terms of the difference between stretch and power have a look at
http://tektextil.com/news/understanding-elongation-and-compression-in-knit-fabrics/

BTW, spandex is the generic name, Lycra is DuPont's brand name for spandex.
Brenda.  My machines are: Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy, Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born in 1940. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitch.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Marniesews

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2017, 00:54:23 AM »
Am I right in the assumption that the higher the amount of Lycra the firmer the fabric? I saw some at 6% and some at 16% I understand it will have more stretch and recovery.

Short answer, HB - yes and no. Higher lycra/spandex/elastane content the firmer the fabric but no, not stretchier with more recovery so much as greater resistance and recovery, which is just what you want in bra making or compression garments.  :D

Useful article, Brenda P. i do enjoy the details - been getting a bit nerdy about needles recently, particularly the different overlocker and stretch types! 8)
Aka Jacky F in a former life...

BrendaP

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2017, 10:37:31 AM »
As I understand it, in very general terms the more spandex/lycra the further the fabric will stretch, and recover, but to increase "strength" you have to increase the overall weight/thickness of the fabric.

A lightweight 20% lycra fabric will stretch maybe 100% but won't support anything, a heavyweight 20% lycra fabric will stretch just as far but needs a lot of force to stretch it and thus it will be supportive.

I've spent the last half hour with Mr Google but can't find any charts listing typical gsm for various fabrics.
Power mesh for bra wings seems to be about 200-230 gsm and swimsuit fabric is about 180-220 gsm.

Brenda.  My machines are: Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy, Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born in 1940. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitch.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

BrendaP

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #10 on: March 16, 2017, 11:16:41 AM »

Could someone in the know tell me please, the fabric I need to make these. At the moment I'm only looking to make a slip to wear under jersey dresses, similar to one I bought from M&S. The Craftsy course mentioned powernet, but I haven't a clue as to what to buy when I look on Sewing Chest.

That M&S one says 42% lycra!! but it doesn't say how heavy (gsm) the fabric is.

Have a look at Funky Fabrics
They have a huge range of lycra fabrics, the body stocking lining is 110 gsm with 16% lycra.
The swimsuit fabric I bought was printed on flex which is 190 gsm with 18% lycra

Be aware that their prices do not include VAT or postage until you get to the checkout.
Brenda.  My machines are: Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy, Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born in 1940. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitch.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Holly Berry

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #11 on: March 16, 2017, 13:42:27 PM »
Thanks for all your research Brenda. I have just looked at the M&S one and you're right it's 42% Lycra.

I have the Julie Cole book on pattern drafting for knits. In the section on underwear she suggests Powernet in 2way stretch heavy weight. On the M&S one there is stretch width ways, but only minimal stretch length ways. I've just done a stretch test and it's 100% stretch but it does take an effort to pull, hence why it holds you in I suppose. The bra section is a much lighter fabric with the same stretch, which doesn't squash you, so you retain the shape of your bust.

When drafting her slopers /blocks, she reduces in 1/2" increments, so from a minimal stretch i.e. Interlock or ponte Roma to super stretchy, with 100% or more stretch there would be a decrease of 1.5 inches on each side seam!

So you're right the more Lycra the greater the stretch and recovery but it's the weight that gives the strength. I think I will order some swatches, that way I will be able do the stretch test and feel the weight. 

Many thanks for all your input, I will report back when I've got some swatches.  :)
Procrastination get behind me 

Greybird

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2017, 16:29:50 PM »
I bought this on Ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Power-Net-Power-Mesh-Bra-and-Costume-Making-Medium-Weight-Black-Colour-/262780233371?var=&hash=item3d2eec269b

I had an all-in-one which was lovely but simply not strong enough for what I needed! I lined it with this and it did the trick. It says medium and it's very similar to other RTW shapewear I have.

JeanHT

Re: Silhouette/Body shapers
« Reply #13 on: March 31, 2017, 14:18:54 PM »