The Sewing Place

Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?

Holly Berry

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #30 on: April 27, 2017, 14:35:36 PM »
I will be watching with interest how you get on. I've had this pattern for a while now, but haven't got round to making it up. Story of my life really!
Procrastination get behind me 

talamasca

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #31 on: April 27, 2017, 15:15:45 PM »
ETA: Ooo interesting....whenever I've been told the seam allowance that's where I stitch to (when I'm quilting), but on this pattern the allowance is 5/8" and you sew 1/4".....couldn't quite understand why until a bit of googling revealed it's for adjustments.....it's a lot isn't it!!??

LOL, it's a good job I'm watching some dressmaking vids beforehand, as I didn't understand the above correct at all.  So, I need to sew 5/8 seam allowance.....then I try on and if fit is OK then I cut off some of the bulk/excess, and if not OK then I can unpick and use a smaller seam allowance make it me slightly bigger....Am I correct this time? :|
~ Steph ~

Vegegrow

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #32 on: April 27, 2017, 15:46:01 PM »
 yes you are correct ..A 5/8th seam allowance is standard in dress making
"The only place where housework comes before needlework is in the dictionary." ~Mary Kurtz

talamasca

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #33 on: April 27, 2017, 15:56:24 PM »
Great, thank you.

Just watched how to add in seam pockets so think I'll give them a go too  :D
~ Steph ~

Tamnymore

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #34 on: April 27, 2017, 16:09:03 PM »
In seam pockets aren't difficult. You just need to find a pocket shaped pattern piece (or construct one) and cut 4 of these. Decide on the pocket placement on each side. I've just measured and I see that I put   the top of my pockets 28cm below the armhole- you can vary this depending on whether you are taller or shorter.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

talamasca

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #35 on: April 27, 2017, 16:41:16 PM »
I've just measured and I see that I put   the top of my pockets 28cm below the armhole- you can vary this depending on whether you are taller or shorter.

Great, thank you.
~ Steph ~

talamasca

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #36 on: May 02, 2017, 19:49:45 PM »
Hope I'm not bugging you all with my questions....going to book on a dressmaking class but it's not available yet  :'(

I've got my fabric, etc and I've measured myself and traced and cut out pattern pieces onto greaseproof.....as I knew the bodice would need altering as my top is 2 sizes smaller than bottom.

But, should I have cut pieces to match finished measurement sizes or the sizes listed on back of packet?

Should the finished waistline measurement match my waist (smallest part)?  Do I need to worry about hip measurement, as that's my biggest area, or not since the bottom half of the skirt is so big?
~ Steph ~

Tamnymore

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #37 on: May 02, 2017, 19:58:06 PM »
I think what you are asking about is ease. All patterns for woven fabrics will include a certain amount of extra width or ease otherwise we'd all go around with skin tight clothes. (The story is a little different for stretch fabrics but don"t worry about that at present).
You need to  choose the correct size for you (note that this may be different to your ready to wear size) and cut this size and not your actual bust or waist measurement otherwise you won"t get the ease that is included in the pattern. So if your bust measurement matches the measurement on the envelope for a 12 say then you cut a 12.

Just to add. It is possible to cut different sizes on top and bottom as your pattern will be multisize. Might be an idea to see if there is a youtube tutorial as it would be easier to see it being done rather than having it explained!
« Last Edit: May 02, 2017, 20:04:10 PM by Tamnymore »
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

DementedFairy

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #38 on: May 02, 2017, 19:59:58 PM »
The waistline is higher than the natural waist, and it won't come near your hips, trust me!  All you need to worry about is getting the bodice fitting nicely.

As for which size, it depends on how close fitting you like it.  I chose the size with finished measurements close to  my bust, as I used jersey both times, and that should have negative ease.  If you're using woven, you need to allow for ease.

Either way, there are no darts or other shaping, so it has to be big enough to accommodate your boobs, after that it just drops down a bit, then the skirt comes out horizontally.
C'est moi!

BrendaP

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #39 on: May 02, 2017, 23:56:14 PM »
LOL, it's a good job I'm watching some dressmaking vids beforehand, as I didn't understand the above correct at all.  So, I need to sew 5/8 seam allowance.....then I try on and if fit is OK then I cut off some of the bulk/excess, and if not OK then I can unpick and use a smaller seam allowance make it me slightly bigger....Am I correct this time? :|

You cut the fabric with ⅝"  16mm seam allowances but you don't normally cut it off.

With patchwork you have ¼" seams which are then covered up by the wadding and backing fabric and they don't get a chance to fray.

When you sew clothes the insides of the seams, and thus the seam allowances, are often exposed and will be in moving contact with the skin and/or other clothing.  That means that you have to finish the raw edges to prevent fraying and you need the extra width to do that.  Sometimes small pieces like collars, cuffs and straps only have ¼" or ⅜" seam allowances, but only if the seams will be totally enclosed as part of the garment construction.

https://www.seasonedhomemaker.com/finish-seams-without-a-serger/ shows several ways of finishing seam allowances.
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born in 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Lyn-J

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #40 on: May 03, 2017, 08:59:10 AM »
this pattern is on my to do list - anyone up for a sew-along?
Lynne

talamasca

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #41 on: May 03, 2017, 11:35:58 AM »
So if your bust measurement matches the measurement on the envelope for a 12 say then you cut a 12.

Just to add. It is possible to cut different sizes on top and bottom as your pattern will be multisize. Might be an idea to see if there is a youtube tutorial as it would be easier to see it being done rather than having it explained!

Thank you.  Yes, I've been watching a tutorial for a diff dress where the pattern is altered a fair bit so I think I've got the jist of it.


The waistline is higher than the natural waist, and it won't come near your hips, trust me!  All you need to worry about is getting the bodice fitting nicely.

If you're using woven, you need to allow for ease.

Great, thank you.


You cut the fabric with ⅝"  16mm seam allowances but you don't normally cut it off.

That means that you have to finish the raw edges to prevent fraying and you need the extra width to do that. 

https://www.seasonedhomemaker.com/finish-seams-without-a-serger/ shows several ways of finishing seam allowances.

Ah I see, thank you.

Oooo loving the pinking blade for rotary cutter.

I really like the look of French seams.


this pattern is on my to do list - anyone up for a sew-along?

Oooo yay!  If everyone put's up progress photos I'll be able to follow along  :D ;)
~ Steph ~

DementedFairy

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #42 on: May 03, 2017, 12:36:44 PM »
The bodice on this is double, and I think you said you aren't doing sleeves, so the only raw edges would be on the skirt, everything else is enclosed.
  I wouldn't recommend French seams on this, as although they are straight seams, you do have to turn corners, and that would be a pain.
Stick to zigzagging, or overlocking, or pinking, or binding if you want it really nice-looking.

C'est moi!

talamasca

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #43 on: May 03, 2017, 13:26:38 PM »
Will do, thanks DF :D

As a newbie I've found the cutting layout a tad confusing...obv it's self-lined so you need two 2's and two 4's, however the pattern pieces say cut 2 on fold, but the layout shows the pieces laid across the folded fabric with a right side of pattern and wrong side of pattern butted together.  To get best use of fabric am I supposed to cut around half and then flip the pattern piece and cut around the other half?  Seems it may be easy to make a mistake doing it like that!  I'll prob have enough fabric to cut 2 of both on the fold anyway, but I was just curious since that's what it shows in the instructions.
~ Steph ~

DementedFairy

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #44 on: May 03, 2017, 13:29:35 PM »
If your fabric is laid out single  layer, do as the pic says, otherwise put to fold.  This is why I NEVER pay attention to cutting layouts.  They're mathematically unsatisfactory for one thing, and waste so much.  Remember, they are drawn to represent a suggested way of getting it all on, and pay no attention to size, and only the briefest to fabric width.  If pattern matching the are no use whatsoever.
By ignoring them, I must have saved miles of fabric over the years!
The only thing you need to worry about is grainline, and in time, you'll know when it's safe to ignore that too!
C'est moi!