The Sewing Place
The Emporia => The Show Must Go On => Topic started by: Heikedog on June 08, 2017, 23:21:52 PM
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I thought I read somewhere that the elastic for a standard, run of the mill neckline on a lycra leotard should be 90% of the actual length of the neckline, but I can't find that factoid anywhere for confirmation. Does such a pearl of wisdom exist?
Thanks!
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It's usually 85% when binding a neckline with the lycra itself but I can't say I've seen a percentage quoted for elastic. I was a big fan of rubber tape and, while it's still my favoured type of elastic I'm using less and less frequently in favour of self binding and folded bands around leg openings too. My GDG likes them better, a little softer and no wedgies either.
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Jacky do you make the binding the same length as the elastic and what width do you use xx
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No I stopped using the loop technique for elastic after seeing a Threads article by Sarah Veblen (http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3839/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits) in which she described the principle of adding more stretch in the areas of transition between the vertical and horizontal directions and very little where the neckline goes primarily up and down or across (ie. the sides of the neckline and the bottom of the centre front/back). I found this really helped in preventing the elastic from tipping outwards at the centre front & back and under the arm.
Although the video isn't really related directly to elastic, I discovered this technique of where and how to stretch worked really well for elastic too.
Because I now do it by feel, I don't measure the elastic and don't cut it until I get to the end. And I've more or less stopped using elastic when I use a loop lycra band either as a binding or a loop facing.
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Please could you explain what you mean by a 'looped lycra band either as a binding or a loop facing'. Sorry to be a bit thick! Ann x
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Of course, I dare say it's just my description rather than the correct terminology. ;)
I'm talking about when you measure out a strip of crosswise lycra (same fabric as the body) around 85% of the neckline length plus seam allowances, then sew the ends together to make a loop. Mark both the loop and neckline in quarters (or eighths if it's quite a long one), sew it together then fold over and under and machine down. This Jalie video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BQzOR-WCgE) shows it well from 1:34mins in. They sew in on the wrong side and fold it outwards giving an effect that looks most like that done with a binder attachment. I like that for stretch mesh (as it is in the video) but for ordinary lycra I prefer to sew it to the right side then fold it over, not always bothering to fold the cut edge under. I often just top stitch it with my coverstitch and trim off any excess.
With regard to the facing, if you sew the band to the right side then turn it over until the strip is folded entirely to the inside hiding the lycra loop from view, it effectively becomes a facing but a very narrow one. Here's a video from Professor Pincushion (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLnH0Qpprnw).
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Thank you Jackie - Its perfectly clear now! I suppose the 'facing' method is just like using ordinary bias binding really, only softer and more comfortable finish. Just one point. You mentioned crosswise strips of lycra. Do you really need to cut the strips crosswise as the lycra is going to stretch whichever way you cut it? Thanks for the explanation though. Ann x
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Do you really need to cut the strips crosswise as the lycra is going to stretch whichever way you cut it?
Strictly speaking I should have said to cut the strips in the direction of the greatest degree of stretch as very occasionally you can find a fabric that has more stretch down the grain that across it but they're few and far between. The purpose of this is that when it's bent around a curve that property will help to smooth the inside of the curve so it stays flat to the body even whilst the outside edge is stretched over a longer distance.
The facing method shown in the video is just like traditional bias binding but generally I don't fold the inside edge under: it won't fray, it's thinner and smoother and as I use a coverstitch the cut edge is no issue.