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The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: talamasca on April 25, 2017, 15:07:06 PM

Title: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on April 25, 2017, 15:07:06 PM: Hi, so I came across this pattern and fell in love with the style...now to make it, bearing in mind I've never followed a pattern before and only made a couple of circle skirts with zips from my own drawn pattern and that's the extent of my dressmaking abilities LOL

Just looking at picking the fabric...thought I'd get something cheap first in case I make a complete hash of it, but I don't know about diff fabrics types either....there's so many and some seem the same, i.e. can I use a sweatshirt or cotton jersey instead of the lightweight wool jersey/double knit the pattern suggests. What about using a poly cotton or 100% cotton instead of lightweight linen?

Also, the pattern says self-lined bodice, which I think means (if Google was correct!) that I cut out 2 front pieces and 2 back pieces and sew them wrong sides together? But if that is the case, why do I also need to buy sew in interfacing? Though that question may be premature as the pattern hasn't arrived yet and the interfacing could be for something other than the bodice.

Hope some wise sewers can help allay my trepidation :D
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: UttaRetch on April 25, 2017, 15:41:41 PM: I love this pattern and someday will actually make it. Our own DementedFairy has made this and here (https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/132453) is her review. Doubtless she will pop by to give you re-assurance. You can also read some of the other reviews and see their fabric choices.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Vegegrow on April 25, 2017, 15:42:55 PM: I think Demented Fairy has made this a couple of times...I expect she'll pop along and give you some tips
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on April 25, 2017, 16:46:57 PM: I've made many versions of this. I love it. It is very dramatic. The interfacing on the bodice is there to stabilise the stretch jersey or stretch knit that you will be using for the bodice.especially in the neck and armhole areas. IMHO an iron on intefacing is better thsn sew in intefacing but it depends on whether you can get a lightweigt stretchy iron on interfacing.

A cotton jersey would be ok I think but sweatshirt fabric for the bodice would be too thick as you would end up with a double layer of sweatshirt fabric as well as the interfacing.

I think that this dress is ok for relative beginners as long as you follow the instructions. It is a long dress. I'm 5'7" and it is quite long on me. I made some adjustments to it. First, I made the neckline narrower and less deep. That's just a personal preference. Demented Fairy seems to have kept the original neckline and it looks great on her. Second, I always omit the zip as I think you can just pull a stretch jersey over the head. It's never been a problem for me. See what DF says about the zip on her versions.

You will notice that the bodice has no darts. If you are the kind of person who requires to make a full bust adjustment (FBA) you may well find that the dress is too sticky outy (that's a technical) term from the body. DF has done something clever with elastic under the bust to draw the dress in again. Now I do not have to make an FBA on clothes I make (ahem) so the dress sits ok on me without being sticky outy!!

Hope that helps. :D
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: BrendaP on April 25, 2017, 16:54:25 PM: https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/v1312#.WP9t6Y4ikg4 (https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/v1312#.WP9t6Y4ikg4)

Pattern info states:
FABRICS: Lightweight Denim, Lightweight Gabardine, Lightweight Linen. Contrast B: Lightweight Wool Jersey, Lightweight Double Knit.

Denim, gabardine and the linen are woven fabrics, so you shouldn't use a jersey (knitted) for the main part. Version A is woven fabric throughout, version B is woven fabric with a lightweight jersey bodice - that means tee-shirt weight rather than fleece.

Self lined bodice does mean lining and fashion fabric are the same. The interfacing will probably be around the neck and armholes, sandwiched between the two layers, and will be to add stability to the fabric.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on April 25, 2017, 17:36:12 PM: If you use a woven for the bodice you probably will need a zip and you would need to be confident about the bodice fit as it would not then have the 'give' that a stretchy fabric has.

The best combination is stretchy on the bodice and woven on the skirt.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Francesca on April 25, 2017, 19:08:01 PM: Lovely pattern, but why does the model look like she's doing the haka?
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 25, 2017, 19:12:43 PM: What they all said.

Fran- you HAVE to do the haka wearing this, including all the face pulling and chest slapping, it's essential. Mainly though, the outrageously huge square skirt makes you want to stick your knees out sideways and pretend to be a table.

That's my story anyway.

I definitely would not recommend making the bodice in a woven, unless utterly boobless, it simply wouldn't work. In jersey, you don't need a zip either.

If you don't want to self line, you could use a thinner fabric to line [as long as it is as stretchy], or fiddle about making facings. Thinking about it, you DO need the two layers, because that skirt is HEAVY, and a single jersey layer would probably go all doo-lally.

Make it make it make it it's a fab dress especially if you add pockets
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: UttaRetch on April 25, 2017, 19:15:56 PM: Quote from: Francesca on April 25, 2017, 19:08:01 PM
Lovely pattern, but why does the model look like she's doing the haka?

or this one

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AqjnwVT-LOg/UBDPb2iLM4I/AAAAAAAAAoM/ac_5RFpio40/s1600/V1317.JPG)

reaching for an imaginery loo seat? 0_0 Vogue has just about the most ridiculous sleeve photographs.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on April 25, 2017, 19:36:05 PM: Haha
Yes they were all doing funny poses in that release of Vogue patterns. Some of the patternreview reviews adopt the same pose. I daren't in case the wind changes direction and I can't get back to normal...
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: sewmuchmore on April 26, 2017, 09:13:35 AM: Don't forget to use a stretch interfacing if you are going to use a stretch fabric.
http://www.tailormouse.co.uk/store/Bi-stretch-fusible-interfacing-K__p-341.aspx
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Francesca on April 26, 2017, 09:40:08 AM: Quote from: UttaRetch on April 25, 2017, 19:15:56 PM
or this one

reaching for an imaginery loo seat? 0_0 Vogue has just about the most ridiculous sleeve photographs.

"Someone's robbed me chair!"
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 26, 2017, 10:48:10 AM: Quote from: sewmuchmore on April 26, 2017, 09:13:35 AM
Don't forget to use a stretch interfacing if you are going to use a stretch fabric.
http://www.tailormouse.co.uk/store/Bi-stretch-fusible-interfacing-K__p-341.aspx

I just used very lightweight stuff, to no bad effect- silk organza on the one I think. You don't actually want or need the neckline to stretch, you want full stability.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on April 26, 2017, 11:47:17 AM: Hi, thank you everyone for the replies. I'm going to the fabric store on Sat and as I'm not keen on mixing fabrics, I'll go with version A in a lightweight woven denim or linen and add the zip and iron on interfacing. I'm nearly boobless 0_0 so hopefully it should hang OK on me.

I do a like pocket in a skirt, but as the pattern doesn't have them it's prob a step to far for me, though I'm hoping I'll make more after this and I could have a go at pockets then.

Just been watching some very informative sewing tuts on YouTube so feeling a bit more confident now, though I do have a question about fabric choices. Why wouldn't I be able to use a heavier weight fabric for this pattern...if the top and bottom are made in the same then surely the top part wouldn't be affected by the weight of the bottom too much....would it?
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on April 26, 2017, 12:32:27 PM: Actually, it isn't very difficult to add in seam pockets but you may want to leave that for now as you say.

No reason why you can't use heavier fabric but there is a LOT of fabric in the skirt and the whole thing could end up feeling very weighty so possibly best to keep the fabric reasonably light weight.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 26, 2017, 12:46:58 PM: I just add patch pockets, inseam wouldn't work with this because of the unusual skirt construction.

There is a LOT of fabric. My added elastic waistband helps to keep some of that weight from pulling down on the bust, I can see it absolutely flattening you if made in all woven, or with anything very heavy. My white and green one is a fairly weighty cotton damask for the skirt, and it weighs a ton. Without the stretch top and elastic waist, I would fall over it every few minutes!

When you're a beginner, best to stick to the rules suggested for fabric choices, with experience, you'll know the effect of breaking away, and how to deal with the consequences.

Usually, very full skirts are supported by a fitted waist. Not here though, it drops straight down from the bust. I seriously recommend using the stretch bodice option for a better finish.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: UttaRetch on April 26, 2017, 12:54:51 PM: Quote from: DementedFairy on April 26, 2017, 12:46:58 PM
When you're a beginner, best to stick to the rules suggested for fabric choices, with experience, you'll know the effect of breaking away, and how to deal with the consequences.

Sound advice for a beginner, indeed. However, I have long admired this dress and would be looking for a light to mid-weight woven. I saw the most delightful linen mix in Woolcrest Textiles and nearly bought it just because.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on April 26, 2017, 13:59:29 PM: Actually DF I don 't agree about the pockets. I always put in seam pockets in this dress and they work really well for me so both kinds of pockets will be fine.

So what do you say, shall we have a pockets duel? Seam rippers at dawn in the Rag Market! :D
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 26, 2017, 14:53:42 PM: Fairy nuff- i would have thought that the seams fall at odd angles, but whatever works, works!

Patch pockets are still easier though!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on April 26, 2017, 15:32:52 PM: My patch pockets never look very neat. At least the inseam pockets are hidden (mostly). I put inseam pockets into that other Mizono dress and that works too. I even put inseam pockets into hats (ok I made that one up. :devil:)
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 26, 2017, 17:35:35 PM: A good trick for patch pockets [as a not very neat sewer in general] is to line them. You can then bag them out, and attach with no fuss whatsoever about all the seam allowances. Works for me!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on April 26, 2017, 18:14:40 PM: Think I'll make 2.......I've got a decent amount of spare cotton fabric left over from making a skirt....think I'll use that along with a double knit/jersey for the top section of option B....does the fabric allowance include for the sleeves too as the sketch shows the sleeves in same colour (white) as skirt section?
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 26, 2017, 18:20:47 PM: Hard to say as I used knits from stash. Easy enough to check with the pattern pieces though
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on April 26, 2017, 18:26:57 PM: Ok...thanks...I'm waiting for the pattern to arrive. Hope it's before the weekend as looking forward to having a go!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 26, 2017, 18:30:00 PM: I'll dig mine out and take a look if you like
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on April 26, 2017, 18:30:49 PM: You should be able to see fabric amounts required on either the Vogue patterns or sewdirect websites
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on April 26, 2017, 18:32:47 PM: Quote from: Tamnymore on April 26, 2017, 18:30:49 PM
You should be able to see fabric amounts required on either the Vogue patterns or sewdirect websites
Yep but for some reason the pattern only quotes for bodice in knit, not sleeves
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on April 27, 2017, 10:33:51 AM: Thanks DF, but it's OK. After measuring, I don't have enough leftover fabric to make another one so I'll stick with original plan of making all in one fabric without sleeves and when the pattern arrives I can take a look at it and measure out how much needed for the sleeves in contrasting material for the next one I make :D
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Snowgoose on April 27, 2017, 11:09:41 AM: This blogger https://corecouture.wordpress.com/2013/07/28/ones-better-ones-worse/ cut off the bodice and turned the bottom into a skirt! I think it makes a gorgeous skirt - I love the drama of it :) I do have some lovely curtain fabric somewhere... :D goes away to rummage around...
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on April 27, 2017, 11:19:45 AM: Yes, I'm thinking of trying just a skirt at some point too.

So the pattern has arrived and it does state that the sleeves are made in same fabric as skirt, with only the bodice in diff fabric....don't think I've seen any with sleeves made like that though.

Being the first time using a pattern I'm reading thoroughly and so far so good, except for understanding cutting out double thickness without a fold, but I'll probably get it when I start.....I'm not very good with written instructions...I need visuals! LOL

ETA: Ooo interesting....whenever I've been told the seam allowance that's where I stitch to (when I'm quilting), but on this pattern the allowance is 5/8" and you sew 1/4".....couldn't quite understand why until a bit of googling revealed it's for adjustments.....it's a lot isn't it!!??
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Holly Berry on April 27, 2017, 14:35:36 PM: I will be watching with interest how you get on. I've had this pattern for a while now, but haven't got round to making it up. Story of my life really!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on April 27, 2017, 15:15:45 PM: Quote from: talamasca on April 27, 2017, 11:19:45 AM
ETA: Ooo interesting....whenever I've been told the seam allowance that's where I stitch to (when I'm quilting), but on this pattern the allowance is 5/8" and you sew 1/4".....couldn't quite understand why until a bit of googling revealed it's for adjustments.....it's a lot isn't it!!??

LOL, it's a good job I'm watching some dressmaking vids beforehand, as I didn't understand the above correct at all. So, I need to sew 5/8 seam allowance.....then I try on and if fit is OK then I cut off some of the bulk/excess, and if not OK then I can unpick and use a smaller seam allowance make it me slightly bigger....Am I correct this time? :|
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Vegegrow on April 27, 2017, 15:46:01 PM: yes you are correct ..A 5/8th seam allowance is standard in dress making
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on April 27, 2017, 15:56:24 PM: Great, thank you.

Just watched how to add in seam pockets so think I'll give them a go too :D
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on April 27, 2017, 16:09:03 PM: In seam pockets aren't difficult. You just need to find a pocket shaped pattern piece (or construct one) and cut 4 of these. Decide on the pocket placement on each side. I've just measured and I see that I put the top of my pockets 28cm below the armhole- you can vary this depending on whether you are taller or shorter.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on April 27, 2017, 16:41:16 PM: Quote from: Tamnymore on April 27, 2017, 16:09:03 PM
I've just measured and I see that I put the top of my pockets 28cm below the armhole- you can vary this depending on whether you are taller or shorter.

Great, thank you.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 02, 2017, 19:49:45 PM: Hope I'm not bugging you all with my questions....going to book on a dressmaking class but it's not available yet :'(

I've got my fabric, etc and I've measured myself and traced and cut out pattern pieces onto greaseproof.....as I knew the bodice would need altering as my top is 2 sizes smaller than bottom.

But, should I have cut pieces to match finished measurement sizes or the sizes listed on back of packet?

Should the finished waistline measurement match my waist (smallest part)? Do I need to worry about hip measurement, as that's my biggest area, or not since the bottom half of the skirt is so big?
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on May 02, 2017, 19:58:06 PM: I think what you are asking about is ease. All patterns for woven fabrics will include a certain amount of extra width or ease otherwise we'd all go around with skin tight clothes. (The story is a little different for stretch fabrics but don"t worry about that at present).
You need to choose the correct size for you (note that this may be different to your ready to wear size) and cut this size and not your actual bust or waist measurement otherwise you won"t get the ease that is included in the pattern. So if your bust measurement matches the measurement on the envelope for a 12 say then you cut a 12.

Just to add. It is possible to cut different sizes on top and bottom as your pattern will be multisize. Might be an idea to see if there is a youtube tutorial as it would be easier to see it being done rather than having it explained!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on May 02, 2017, 19:59:58 PM: The waistline is higher than the natural waist, and it won't come near your hips, trust me! All you need to worry about is getting the bodice fitting nicely.

As for which size, it depends on how close fitting you like it. I chose the size with finished measurements close to my bust, as I used jersey both times, and that should have negative ease. If you're using woven, you need to allow for ease.

Either way, there are no darts or other shaping, so it has to be big enough to accommodate your boobs, after that it just drops down a bit, then the skirt comes out horizontally.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: BrendaP on May 02, 2017, 23:56:14 PM: Quote from: talamasca on April 27, 2017, 15:15:45 PM
LOL, it's a good job I'm watching some dressmaking vids beforehand, as I didn't understand the above correct at all. So, I need to sew 5/8 seam allowance.....then I try on and if fit is OK then I cut off some of the bulk/excess, and if not OK then I can unpick and use a smaller seam allowance make it me slightly bigger....Am I correct this time? :|

You cut the fabric with ⅝" 16mm seam allowances but you don't normally cut it off.

With patchwork you have ¼" seams which are then covered up by the wadding and backing fabric and they don't get a chance to fray.

When you sew clothes the insides of the seams, and thus the seam allowances, are often exposed and will be in moving contact with the skin and/or other clothing. That means that you have to finish the raw edges to prevent fraying and you need the extra width to do that. Sometimes small pieces like collars, cuffs and straps only have ¼" or ⅜" seam allowances, but only if the seams will be totally enclosed as part of the garment construction.

https://www.seasonedhomemaker.com/finish-seams-without-a-serger/ (https://www.seasonedhomemaker.com/finish-seams-without-a-serger/) shows several ways of finishing seam allowances.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 03, 2017, 08:59:10 AM: this pattern is on my to do list - anyone up for a sew-along?
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 03, 2017, 11:35:58 AM: Quote from: Tamnymore on May 02, 2017, 19:58:06 PM
So if your bust measurement matches the measurement on the envelope for a 12 say then you cut a 12.

Just to add. It is possible to cut different sizes on top and bottom as your pattern will be multisize. Might be an idea to see if there is a youtube tutorial as it would be easier to see it being done rather than having it explained!

Thank you. Yes, I've been watching a tutorial for a diff dress where the pattern is altered a fair bit so I think I've got the jist of it.

Quote from: DementedFairy on May 02, 2017, 19:59:58 PM
The waistline is higher than the natural waist, and it won't come near your hips, trust me! All you need to worry about is getting the bodice fitting nicely.

If you're using woven, you need to allow for ease.

Great, thank you.

Quote from: BrendaP on May 02, 2017, 23:56:14 PM
You cut the fabric with ⅝" 16mm seam allowances but you don't normally cut it off.

That means that you have to finish the raw edges to prevent fraying and you need the extra width to do that.

https://www.seasonedhomemaker.com/finish-seams-without-a-serger/ (https://www.seasonedhomemaker.com/finish-seams-without-a-serger/) shows several ways of finishing seam allowances.

Ah I see, thank you.

Oooo loving the pinking blade for rotary cutter.

I really like the look of French seams.

Quote from: Lyn-J on May 03, 2017, 08:59:10 AM
this pattern is on my to do list - anyone up for a sew-along?

Oooo yay! If everyone put's up progress photos I'll be able to follow along :D ;)
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on May 03, 2017, 12:36:44 PM: The bodice on this is double, and I think you said you aren't doing sleeves, so the only raw edges would be on the skirt, everything else is enclosed.
I wouldn't recommend French seams on this, as although they are straight seams, you do have to turn corners, and that would be a pain.
Stick to zigzagging, or overlocking, or pinking, or binding if you want it really nice-looking.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 03, 2017, 13:26:38 PM: Will do, thanks DF :D

As a newbie I've found the cutting layout a tad confusing...obv it's self-lined so you need two 2's and two 4's, however the pattern pieces say cut 2 on fold, but the layout shows the pieces laid across the folded fabric with a right side of pattern and wrong side of pattern butted together. To get best use of fabric am I supposed to cut around half and then flip the pattern piece and cut around the other half? Seems it may be easy to make a mistake doing it like that! I'll prob have enough fabric to cut 2 of both on the fold anyway, but I was just curious since that's what it shows in the instructions.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on May 03, 2017, 13:29:35 PM: If your fabric is laid out single layer, do as the pic says, otherwise put to fold. This is why I NEVER pay attention to cutting layouts. They're mathematically unsatisfactory for one thing, and waste so much. Remember, they are drawn to represent a suggested way of getting it all on, and pay no attention to size, and only the briefest to fabric width. If pattern matching the are no use whatsoever.
By ignoring them, I must have saved miles of fabric over the years!
The only thing you need to worry about is grainline, and in time, you'll know when it's safe to ignore that too!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 03, 2017, 17:43:28 PM: ok! Ready to go!
Black printed viscose for the skirt. The sleeves and bodice in plain black viscose. I'm using polycotton for the interfacing. I've starched the fabric as it is slippery slidey, going off grain all over the place. I won't put a zip in unless absolutely necessary.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4191/33588134164_8df6600079_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Tb4Y6s)001 (https://flic.kr/p/Tb4Y6s) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
I labelled where the pieces go as they are unusual shapes.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4189/34430283695_e62cbbcd48_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UsucNX)002 (https://flic.kr/p/UsucNX) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Here's an inside out version of one I made sometime ago (wince) It's not my best work.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4161/33588139654_707526d087_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Tb4ZJ7)003 (https://flic.kr/p/Tb4ZJ7) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr

If you haven't already it may be beneficial to read the information an the pattern, "Fabric Cutting Layouts", "Sewing Information" and "Glossary". Nobody ever does but there's a wealth of knowledge there.

TIP: Make the seams in the bodice lining the try it on for size. This pattern is notorious for needing adjustment. It runs large and it's quite possible it will need taking in.

ETA: re cutting out front and back. I'm going to fold my fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge, then in half again, fold to selvedges. Then I will cut my pieces (lining and garment) out an a double fold at the same time. (Lazy and not approved by Vogue :) )
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 04, 2017, 10:43:32 AM: Ooo yay, really glad to see you're starting yours too. Love the fabric and love the fabric of your previous one too. I've gone plain light grey as wanted something for work this time, but def going to make others in some prettier fabrics.

Thanks for the fab cutting tip of the double fold....will def do that.

I've some spare fabric so going to whip up the bodice and top part of skirt just to see how it fits, then I can amend the pattern pieces before starting. Hoping to do this Sat aft and then start Sunday on the dress.

I've read everything a few times (takes a while to sink in! LOL). I find the instructions a bit odd, as they're quite detailed on putting in the zip, but when it comes to sewing lining to bodice it's not that clear 'pin lining to bodice'! Fortunately, after watching a few vids and reading some tutorials I found one that makes sense to me and has great pictures:

http://www.crafterhoursblog.com/2011/02/all-in-one-facings-tutorial.html
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 04, 2017, 10:50:35 AM: I haven't cut mine out yet. I didn't quit have enough of the patterned fabric and so I had to get a bit creative with the layout. By the time I'd worked out what to do , it was to late to get started.
So the plan is to cut out tonight
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 06, 2017, 10:47:08 AM: Finally getting around to doing the marking this morning
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 06, 2017, 17:40:43 PM: I redrafted the pattern 2 sizes smaller and made it in spare material, including top part of skirt..which def fits better than the last one I made, but I think I should go down 1 more size as I can wear it (it's made in cotton) just by slipping it over my head, it's a little baggy under arms and across high bust and at waistline.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 06, 2017, 18:22:25 PM: The last on I made I took the seam in a good inch (4 in all) under the arms tapering towards the waste line. This one has sleeves so I'm not going to attempt that alteration, but it does have that same bagginesses under the arms.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 07, 2017, 15:41:50 PM: Gosh....it's tiring learning new stuff! Lol

I've made a third practice top 3 sizes smaller than originally planned and it fits :D So this morning I re-cut the pattern pieces and then cut out my dress fabric and transferred the markings.

This aft I sewed the interfacing to bodice, sewed bodice pieces together at sides and sewed lining pieces together at sides. I'd printed out a photo tutorial for sewing lining to bodice and I started pinning but my brain has had enough and I couldn't quite get it.....not helped cos my fabric is plain and I had to keep checking I was putting right sides together so I'm leaving it until next weekend.

Oh and I must remember to add a note to my instructions for when I need to add the pockets!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 07, 2017, 15:59:07 PM: I'm not having happy times with mine either, because I didn't have enough fabric - took me longer to cut than to sew. I've just got to hem mine, tv job for tonight.
I know what you mean about the lining, I can talk you through it, but when you have had a rest. Its one of those things that's easy, ONCE you know how.
You know what we need :toast: :toast: :toast:
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 07, 2017, 16:14:04 PM: Oh wow, hemming already! Great stuff. Thanks....trouble is I'm hopeless without pics. I got it but unpinned it to iron seams and then lost it and couldn't think lol lol.....def can't wait for wine o'clock!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 08, 2017, 16:34:11 PM: I'm going to do a sleeveless one, light blue chambray. On a roll with the pattern 0_0. I will post pictures every step of the way. The fabric is in the wash so will post pictures every step of the way. Plus a few extra ones between step 4 & 7.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 08, 2017, 16:38:33 PM: Ooo you're on with another one :D Pics would be fab, thank you. I've not got time to sew during the week, but I'm def going to crack on with it at the weekend and hopefully finish it. I've been thinking about making another too......need to buy more fabric though.....tempted by one with sleeves
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 13, 2017, 18:42:22 PM: Steps 1 - 2
I stay stitched the front and back of the bodice neckline 1/2" away from the edge. I have also stay stitched the armhole above the circle on the bodice and the lining to make it easier to keep track of where the seam allowance. (This step isn't necessary but nice to do.)
The interfacing has been tacked to the bodice.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4160/34472573322_55c1ccfdb5_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UwdX3s)P1020323 (https://flic.kr/p/UwdX3s) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 13, 2017, 18:47:45 PM: Step 3 - 4
The side seams. I'm not doing the zip so stitched the whole of the seam.
Accidentallly stitched the shoulder seams too, so had to unpick them. :|
No picture for this step.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 13, 2017, 18:52:13 PM: Step 5
Stitching the bodice to the lining at front and back neckline. Partially stitching the armhole.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4158/34249118690_e20d53ba84_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UbtFLo)P1020324 (https://flic.kr/p/UbtFLo) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4184/34472572002_cdf330b9bd_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UwdWDG)P1020325 (https://flic.kr/p/UwdWDG) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
(there's an embroidery on the bodice front, feeling creative ><
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 13, 2017, 18:58:49 PM: Step 5a
Trim the neckline and armhole seams.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4183/34249117820_47338eb77a_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UbtFvo)P1020326 (https://flic.kr/p/UbtFvo) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Like so
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4191/34472570892_1c85ba304f_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UwdWjy)P1020327 (https://flic.kr/p/UwdWjy) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 13, 2017, 19:05:08 PM: Step 5b
Clip the curves.
(Vogue! what ever is the matter with you, "trim seams, clip curves"! You always used to say it - why can't you now! - end rant)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4185/34249116690_e226115eec_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UbtFaU)P1020328 (https://flic.kr/p/UbtFaU) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
The tighter the curve the more the clipping. Take your time so you don't cut through you sewing. s a rule of thumb, if you can pull the seam into a straight line you have done enough. Too much is better than not enough.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 13, 2017, 19:05:55 PM: More to come taking a break mid-posting
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 13, 2017, 19:24:29 PM: :D :D thank you so much for these...I'll be having a go tomorrow afternoon
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 13, 2017, 20:19:33 PM: Step 5c Turn
Al trimmed! - lining on the outside.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4159/33824820233_96cd482cbb_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TwZ3BK)P1020329 (https://flic.kr/p/TwZ3BK) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
pull the lining up
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4187/34593620536_6669636230_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UGVmao)P1020330 (https://flic.kr/p/UGVmao) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
through
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4189/34593620116_3231c95eae_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UGVm39)P1020331 (https://flic.kr/p/UGVm39) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
and pop the shoulders through
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4190/34634767575_2bbcdb2563_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ULyeK6)P1020335 (https://flic.kr/p/ULyeK6) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 13, 2017, 20:26:36 PM: Step 5d
Press the seam and the lining away from the bodice around the neck and armholes.
A sleeve board, tailor's roll or even a wooden spoon will help press the bit at the fiddly top of the neckline.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4178/34504237801_210c151545_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Uz2eMK)P1020334 (https://flic.kr/p/Uz2eMK) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
now fold the lining to the inside
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4183/34593616406_0beb4bb01c_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UGVjWb)P1020336 (https://flic.kr/p/UGVjWb) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 13, 2017, 20:31:19 PM: Step 5e
Press the lining to the insde along neckline and armholes. so the seam line is JUST to the side of the lining. This will prevent it showing on the right side.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4191/34593614566_e11a7a4467_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UGVjos)P1020338 (https://flic.kr/p/UGVjos) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4183/34593616406_0beb4bb01c_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UGVjWb)P1020336 (https://flic.kr/p/UGVjWb) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 13, 2017, 20:47:01 PM: Step 6
Open up the shoulder seams and pin
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4169/34593613666_394169a41d_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UGVj7W)P1020339 (https://flic.kr/p/UGVj7W) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
I'm going to tack mine as it's curling back on itself.
That's as far as I've got for now
Sorry if some of this is obvious, but I'm trying to put myself in the position of a complete beginner.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 14, 2017, 05:42:17 AM: The details and step by step instructions are fantastic. I really do appreciate you helping me like this...it's like a dressmaking class, thank you so much :D
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 08:38:57 AM: You're welcome! :)
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 08:59:26 AM: Step 6 - 7
Press the shoulder seam open then fold to the inside along the neckline.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4193/34646478985_eaeabee6a4_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UMAg8X)P1020341 (https://flic.kr/p/UMAg8X) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4156/34260910590_608062ff33_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ucw861)P1020342 (https://flic.kr/p/Ucw861) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr

Turn the bodice seam allowance under and pin.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4158/34260909700_b7037627ea_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ucw7PE)P1020343 (https://flic.kr/p/Ucw7PE) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Then turn in the lining. Nudge it around until you're happy with its appearance. (Make sure both shoulder seams are the same width ;) )

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4172/34605543746_c9f95b413e_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UHYsvY)P1020344 (https://flic.kr/p/UHYsvY) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr

Slip stitch the edge together. This (Fig 28-22) (https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=t0t6AWUQgTsC&pg=PA452&lpg=PA452&dq=claire+shaeffer+slip+stitch&source=bl&ots=xQTgOZR40d&sig=4MNIOMF7Of7bk2yMfPwmOgnfXCk&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiewI3O2-3TAhXjLMAKHTzqBpUQ6AEIKjAA#v=onepage&q=claire%20shaeffer%20slip%20stitch&f=false) is the best way. Tiny stitches going straight across are less visible.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 09:14:34 AM: Step 9
Edge stitch about 1/8" away from the edge. use a blind-stitch or edge-stitch foot to do this. If you are not very confident about stay on the edge you could always make you stitching a bit further from the edge.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4189/34646480255_cd2c4734b8_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UMAgvR)P1020351 (https://flic.kr/p/UMAgvR) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 09:30:59 AM: Step 18
I stay stitched the curves on pieces 6 & 7
I pressed my seams open. The way you do your sams is a matter of personal choice and fabric. Pictures 18 and 26 ar inconsistent.
My bodice lining was hanging slightly lower than the bodice, but I will trim that off.
Skirt pinned to bodice, ready to sew.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4190/34261512120_33a9ba6a15_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UczcUd)P1020353 (https://flic.kr/p/UczcUd) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 09:36:54 AM: Step 25
I pressed my seam allowances open. I stopped sewing 5/8" from the top of the seam. This will make it a lot easier to attach to the top part of the skirt.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4163/34646479305_b03481091e_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UMAget)P1020352 (https://flic.kr/p/UMAget) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 14, 2017, 13:31:19 PM: Hi, I've just put the lining into the bodice right sides together and pinned ready to sew neckline and armholes....but I noticed you've sewn with your lining on the outside.....does it matter.

Gosh, it's really ridiculous how nervous I am! You'd think I'd never sewn before -<
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 14:08:38 PM: it should be just the same, i sew interfacing side up as it is less inclined to stretch. Don't forget to stop at the circles on the armholes. :)
Are you putting a zip in it?
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 14, 2017, 14:18:42 PM: I bit the bullet and sewed it....never sewed so slowly in my life lol lol

Just thought I'd check before trimming and apart from seeming like a puzzle pulling it the right sides out....I think it's ok 0_0

Yes....I'll be adding a zip :S
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 14, 2017, 16:30:20 PM: Thank you again....I really don't think I could've gotten this far without your photos. I had hoped to finish the bodice today but I'm at the hand sewing stage....I absolutely detest hand sewing and I'm rubbish at it....worried I'll spoil the finish! Might have to beg a friend at sewing class to do it! Lol
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on May 14, 2017, 16:40:01 PM: Well done- it definitely looks more work on the sleeveless version!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on May 14, 2017, 16:46:50 PM: Looks good, Talamasca. Can you remind me what you have to hand sew on this dress? I can't rememember doing any hand sewing on the versions I did. Might just be me being lazy though.

In any case, with hand sewing, unless it's a really delicate fabric you can always unpick and resew your stitching if you don't like your first attempt.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 17:45:58 PM: Well done Steph, I'm proud to have been a small part of that :) :) :)
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 17:57:17 PM: For completeness
Step 19
Check that the waist seam has no puckers then finish
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4166/34655781645_47d8b88e28_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UNpWuD)P1020354 (https://flic.kr/p/UNpWuD) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4180/33813215224_a9ba4e5e24_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TvXyRo)P1020355 (https://flic.kr/p/TvXyRo) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr

I'm not pressing my seams, because the fabric is full of starch and leaving gunk all over my iron. this is ok as the seams are not being crossed by others.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4180/33813215224_a9ba4e5e24_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TvXyRo)P1020355 (https://flic.kr/p/TvXyRo) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 17:59:27 PM: I did a 5/8" seam on mine, just thought it was more suited with the embroidery (this is supposed to be the last step)

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4167/33846014513_4cffa50944_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyREWn)P1020356 (https://flic.kr/p/TyREWn) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 14, 2017, 18:09:01 PM: Yours looks lovely Lyn and I love the addition of the embroidery <3

I've a quilted bag class next weekend so won't get chance to do any more until the weekend after.....if only I didn't work!

I need to hand sew between top of shoulder strap and under arm with a slipstitch. I know how to do it but I've no patience for hand sewing :'(

If the sleeve version doesn't have hand sewing I'll def make that one from now on lol lol
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 18:09:36 PM: Step 26
I worked this as 4 separate seams.
first bit
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4168/34655779615_1d0a3ea0b4_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UNpVTD)P1020357 (https://flic.kr/p/UNpVTD) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr

Then trimmed with the overlocker
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4187/34655778275_d003c7b6d1_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UNpVux)P1020359 (https://flic.kr/p/UNpVux) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 18:14:41 PM: Steph there's no hand sewing on the Sleeved version - so you're committed now :D

This one has only a tiny bit and its on the inside, so no-one will see it. It may also be possible to catch that while you are edge-stitching, but a bit risky

ETA thank you :)
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on May 14, 2017, 18:18:55 PM: That explains it. I've only ever done sleeves with this pattern so no hand stitching.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 14, 2017, 18:22:17 PM: Ta Dah
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4187/34493696602_b13f0b2b40_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Uy6dfW)P1020360 (https://flic.kr/p/Uy6dfW) by Lyn-J (https://www.flickr.com/photos/75662823@N06/), on Flickr

ooh look the creases!!!
I'm now removing superfluous tacking thread, trimming ends then in the wash :) hoping its goiing to drape a bit better afterwards

There's eight hours worth of embroidery in the skirt
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: UttaRetch on May 14, 2017, 18:28:04 PM: Gorgeous. I hope there is going to be an 'action shot'. :D
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Snowgoose on May 14, 2017, 19:26:09 PM: That is so, so pretty! I love the wildflower embroidery, such a summery look. I would like to try this dress at some point in time, I do have an overlocker - a vintage Bernina Bernette - but am still too nervous of it to try and learn how to use it :o silly, I know! I think maybe the week ahead I will take it out of its mothballs and get acquainted :). First step, the dreaded threading -< Off to YouTube for help :)
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on May 14, 2017, 19:43:45 PM: Overlocker not necessary by any means, I sewed for many years without needing one
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: UttaRetch on May 14, 2017, 19:57:16 PM: I had one and struggled to lace the beast up only to find that I didn't like it. It remained in its box for nearly a year before Fran bought it. Unfortunately, it misbehaved but Fran said it was a good introdution to overlockers - she's a nice person.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Vegegrow on May 14, 2017, 20:14:25 PM: Many thanks to Lyn-J and Talamasca and all other contributors for an amazing thread ...like ..like ..like...like ...like
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Fabric Lover on May 14, 2017, 21:01:48 PM: Lovely dress Lyn-J, like it very much
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 15, 2017, 10:21:44 AM: Oh wow Lyn, I <3 <3 <3 the embroidery on the bottom panels, what a fab idea.....I could so picture something similar on mine.....pretty coloured flowers 0_0 ..........me thinks I need an embroidery machine now ;) :D

ETA: Ooops, I was so distracted by your beautiful embroidery I forgot to ask my question LOL

I'm not sure whether I need to add the zip or not. What does adding a zip do to the fit and is it necessary? I can put the bodice on over my head and it fits fine, it is perhaps still a little big around the bottom part, but I can live with that this time.

ETA again: Googled at lunch and found this, which I think I can do instead of hand stitching?:

https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/video-how-to-clean-finish-a-lined-armhole
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 15, 2017, 20:05:53 PM: <3 thanks for your kind comments everyone <3

Steph not entirely sure I could follow the Colette method, but I think it would work.

You don't have to hand sew, you could rely on your edge stitching holding down the edge of the lining ;)

Wondering whether this dress would work in a border print or broderie anglaise.

ETA: Missed the zip question. I didn't need the zip to get the dress on, so that was the reason I didn't use it. It does nothing for the fit.
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 24, 2017, 15:04:15 PM: Yay, really excited as I've booked tomorrow and Fri off work to specifically finish this dress and work on a couple of other projects over the bank holiday weekend. Fingers crossed I'll get the dress finished tomorrow, barring any mishaps!

I'm not going to bother with the zip so I'll need to sew the left side up first and then I will hand stitch the armholes. I managed to practice a bit and even though I still really dislike hand stitching, at least they're only small sections.

So looking forward to my craft :vintage: :snip: :wool: weekend 0_0
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 24, 2017, 21:24:47 PM: Quote from: talamasca on May 24, 2017, 15:04:15 PM
I've booked tomorrow and Fri off work to specifically finish this dress
Now that's serious sewing!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 25, 2017, 13:07:00 PM: I don't believe what I've done....I was sure I'd pinned everything correctly, but no. I've sewn bodice and skirt together wrong way......and I've not just sewn them.....I've finished them and overedged too :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 25, 2017, 13:20:27 PM: First pic bodice wrong, skirt right

Second pic bodice right, skirt wrong

At least pockets are in correct position!

Goodness :'( so I'm going to have to unpick overedge and both sewn lines and re-pin etc etc....I'd best get cracking....gonna need a huge
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Acorn on May 25, 2017, 13:45:23 PM: :( You'll have earned that
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 25, 2017, 14:08:51 PM: Yeah I was a bit excited to finish! Unfortunately I couldn't get the second line of stitching out...my thread matches too well and I almost tore through tje fabric with my seam ripper so I've cut it off!!!! I'm hoping this will be ok cos only going to have 1/4" seam :o I'm going to use a small stitch and go over it before overedging .....hope it will be secure/strong enough
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 25, 2017, 16:21:22 PM: Good grief I'm struggling.....I can't figure out how to line up the corner with the seams when adding bottom part of skirt....I know it shouldn't be this difficult but I don't know where I'm going wrong....please help :S
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 25, 2017, 16:55:09 PM: I've called it a day....so close! I just really don't understand how to line corners up with seams whilst keeping the edges straight...I lined up as per instructions but I end up with a fold in fabric....like I've too much...may be I've stretched something along the way :S
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on May 25, 2017, 17:43:51 PM: Excess in the bottom bit I'm guessing? Did you take any length out at any stage, cos it has a knock on effect?

Anyway, easy fix. Line up the centres of the bottom rectangles, withe the centres of each section of the top bit, ie CF, CB, and side seams. Work from the middle to corners, and where there is excess, take it out of the bottom along the seam line. It will all balance. Remember the odd tuck gather or pleat won't show when you're wearing it as it's very forgiving
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on May 25, 2017, 18:31:45 PM: Yes I'm sure DF is right. However if you haven't shortened anything let us know cos it might be something else - still eminently fixable though. :D
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 25, 2017, 19:21:30 PM: Hi, I've not shortened anything. I had to remove 1/4" or so from bodice but that was within the seam allowance.

I'm going to re-pin bottom part tomorrow and make sure everything is centred.

I found lining up the corner with the seam difficult and now I understand why Lyn said to leave 5/8th at top edge
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on May 25, 2017, 20:06:10 PM: I'm sure you realise this but the 4 sections that make up the lower skirt comprise 2 sbort and 2 long. You join them long, short, long, short to make a rectangle. The shorter pieces fit across the front and back of the dress repectively. The longer pieces fit along the two sides. Each point at the bottom of the upper skirt joins to where there is a seam in the lower skirt. Is there any way you could have mixed something up here?
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on May 25, 2017, 20:33:58 PM: the corners are the only tricky bit in the whole thing, and that's mainly because the instructions make them so.
get it lined up as I said, and then sew, bottom section on top, from the'midpoint' of the corner [I put pen dots to help] straight across one edge to the next corner.
Fasten off thread, rearrange the fabric, and do the next side. Sew all four as separate seams, instead of trying to turn the corner.
Then sort of adjust any excess at those corners , effectively making darts or tucks along those seams. Cut away any leftovers. The shape will not be harmed.
How do I know? Because I buggered it up on the first one, and had to faff about. This is the best way!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 25, 2017, 22:03:53 PM: Just catching up with this thread! so tired I can't think straight, will re-read in the morning :[
(I think there has been some good advice here)
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 26, 2017, 07:55:57 AM: Thank you everyone for all of your help. I couldn't have made/nearly made this dress with it :loveit:

OK....I think I've got it.....

Pic 1 - lined up and pinned front bottom panel with front top

Pic 2 - start sewing from green pin all the way across to same spot on opposite corner?

Pic 3 - as pic 2 but folded up to show bottom panel seam
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on May 26, 2017, 13:04:05 PM: WOOHOO I did it! :D :D :D

Those corner bits were a pain but I've only got a little crease which is hardly visible.

I've learnt so much, in particular to read instructions properly and check if I'm not sure (I topstitched neckline and armholes!). Always triple check I've pinned things correctly!!!!

It's in the wash now ready for wearing when I go out on Sunday :D
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Acorn on May 26, 2017, 13:21:15 PM: That looks wonderful - very classy! 0_0

Well done!
:flower: :flower: :flower: :flower: :flower: :flower: :flower: :flower: :flower: :flower:
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Snowgoose on May 26, 2017, 13:36:04 PM: That is a gorgeous dress, I love the colour, very elegant! Have a lovely day wearing it - hope the sun shines for you :)
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on May 27, 2017, 15:25:56 PM: Yes you've cracked it, Talamasca. Well done! That's exactly how it should look. You will enjoy wearing it and getting lots of nice comments

Now then, time to make another one? Sleeves this time? I have 5 versions of this dress! :devil:
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on May 27, 2017, 17:47:24 PM: Fantastic job¬ Well done! I sure you will love wearing it <3
What's next?
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on June 03, 2017, 17:16:14 PM: Not had chance to wear it yet! I've just started crochetting a shrug to wear with it.

I've a few sewing projects to do so no dressmaking just yet but when I do I'll either make another Vogue dress or try the Burda 6549 dress A.....but it's got pleats and things :S
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on June 03, 2017, 18:19:51 PM: It doesn't look difficult. Those are either tiny pleats or gathers at the bust -either way they will be easy. I think the main thing with this dress will be putting in the zip and getting a good fit but you've been in training !
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: talamasca on June 11, 2017, 14:32:59 PM: Yeah I'm looking forward to making that dress...even with pleats lol.

I wore the vogue dress with my crochetted cardie this weekend. I do think the bodice would benefit from pleats or something to give a better fit/shape.

I'd quite like to make a cropped three quarter sleeve jacket in the linen.....been looking for something plain with a wide neck but not come a cross a pattern yet
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: DementedFairy on June 11, 2017, 14:38:27 PM: Well done!

Quote from: talamasca on June 11, 2017, 14:32:59 PM
I do think the bodice would benefit from pleats or something to give a better fit/shape.

Yep that's why I recommend making the waist a closer fit, by using elastic inserted between the two layers, and stitched into a channel. It works particularly well with the jersey bodice. If you can pull it on over your head OK, no zip needed, and it helps support the weight of all that skirt fabric too.
A more 'couture' fix would be to add an inner waiststay, and maybe do some darts, but that's a lot more work!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Lyn-J on June 11, 2017, 14:49:26 PM: That looks superb!
The cardie sets it off very well too, well done!
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Snowgoose on June 11, 2017, 17:26:54 PM: Stunning! The Cardie is beautiful and sets the dress off so prettily, I am in complete awe of your crochet skills :)
Title: Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
Post by: Tamnymore on June 11, 2017, 17:27:16 PM: The first time I made this dress I made it too big so I put in a couple of tucks either side of the centre front in the seam where the bodice meets the upper skirt. These acted as makeshift darts and did the job of pulling in the dress suitably- so that might be an alternative. In any case I think your dress looks fab. Onwards and upwards! :D