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Messages - Manuela

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1
In the wardrobe / Re: Summer dresses - share what you make/made
« on: August 12, 2017, 23:13:28 PM »
I made another dress using denim lave (let's just say I bought a lotof it  ;) ), the pattern is Vogue 1469.
Given that the fabric has less drape than the boucles, and the fact that I have very straight shoulders, I made a muslin and had to pinch out a shoulder dart at the neck hole. I pivoted the amount out, and now the V-neck sits nice and flat.


2
In the wardrobe / Re: Buttonholes (heavy sigh)
« on: August 12, 2017, 00:41:13 AM »
I'm with Brenda and Jessie in recommending a basic vintage Singer and complementing buttonholer. My latest toy is the Singer Autopilot Buttonholer used with my Singer 338. The buttonholes are beautiful no matter how thick or knobbly the fabric is. The Autopilot buttonholer takes the same cams as the professsional buttonholer, but is smaller and made of metal.

3
The Cafe / Re: Dreams and regrets?
« on: August 10, 2017, 14:32:12 PM »
Not really regrets, because there was nothing I could do or change, but here it goes:
As some of you know, I was born and grew in East Germany. Ever since I was a teenager, I wanted to be a teacher. When my brother was 16 years old, he tried to leave East Germany. Luckily he wasn't shit, but caught and ended up in prison. (A little snippet here, IKEA had a deal with the East German government, and used political prisoners as cheap - or slave - labour). With such a political background, I wasn't allowed to go to university, let alone become a teacher.
Oh, and I shouldn't have married my ex-husband   :devil:
Dream - becoming a teacher. Thanks to Mr Manuela's support and my hard work, I did a degree I'll be studying, doing a PGCE in Design and Technology starting in September.
It was a long and rocky road getting there, but I don't regret any of it.

4
In the wardrobe / Re: Summer dresses - share what you make/made
« on: August 07, 2017, 23:42:49 PM »
I made another dress inspired by Chanel's latest resort collection  :)

5
In the wardrobe / Re: Jeans alteration?
« on: August 07, 2017, 13:16:54 PM »
If it helps, more often than not topstitching and seams of jeans are sewn on chainstitching machines, hence unpicking could just mean finding the right end of the seam....  ;)

6
Wow, wow, wow CarolC, you're definitely onto something there with your sketch. That way I can utilise the scallop edge of my fabric. Thank you for the fantabulous sketch  :loveit:
Need to put my thinking cap on about the mullet effect.... I might put the horizontal back seam to good use for that.
I'm happy to forfeight the horizontal front seam, as it might affect the drape.
Current recap with all the input
- handkerchief hem at the front using my TNT pattern with darts pivoted to the hem to create a trapez shape
- ruching at the side seams done via channels with inserted self fabric ties
- and some more thinking about the back using the horizontal seam ( I think about two triangles joined at the center back, to have side seams and centre back at the same length, thus creating the mullet effect)

7
Elephun, thanks for the link to the Threads article, I didn't think about doing that. Certainly a possibility to be explored when it comes to the front seam.
At the hem I'd rather let the scallop edge of the fabric shine, this is what I got.



For the ruching on the side, I am thinking about turning the side seams into casings, insert a ribbon made from the fashion fabric, pull the side seam up according to how frivolous I am on the day, and tie it.  :)

8
Thank you Elephun for finding the actual dress.
https://www.farfetch.com/shopping/women/antonio-berardi-jacquard-asymmetric-dress-item-11831408.aspx?storeid=9941&from=1

I think the difference in appearance between the dress on Farfetch and the pink dress is the material. The pink fabric has much more drape, I prefer that to the brocade. I have some beautiful teal coloured eyelet fabric, hmmmm

I'm ogelling at all the detail pictures to see how I can achieve a similar effect. And yes, I'd call it a trapez shape rather than tent, I'd prefer it fitted up the bust area, and then draping down.
Great sleuthing here, keep up the good work  :)

Enlarging the picture of the back shows a horizontal seam there, just below the zipper...


9
https://www.farfetch.com/shopping/women/antonio-berardi-embroidered-flared-dress-item-12027924.aspx?storeid=9523&from=1

Maybe you could buy one. A snip at half price 🤑

I'd rather spend that money on fabrics  :devil:
Thank you for finding the link, lots of detailed pictures of the front bit - really helpful  :)

10
I have just cut out this one:

http://www.sewdirect.com/acatalog/Vogue-V1550.html

which you might be able to adapt. The the short tunic and the long one are on the same pattern piece.

Oooooooh, there is definitely potential. I have this pattern, need to investigate the hemline  :)

11
Thank you all for the input and suggestions, please keep them coming  :)

Utta & Tamnymore I have the Marcy Tilton pattern, but it's not really adaptable to replicate the shape due to the circle bits and curved seams.

Jessie, it's most definitely a dress, there is a seam of sorts at the front, maybe even an overlapping one.

Efemera, that's what I think too.

At the moment my thought process is:
- use my semi-fitted TNT pattern
- slash and pivot the bust darts to create circumference at the bottom for ruching up the side seam
- slash and open the back to match the front shape

That leaves two issues open:
- figure out the seam line at the front - curved or straight?/how to deal with a straight border embroidery to create a soft curve/line
- figuring out the mullet hem

I suspect that the original dress features a border embroidery the is shaped, and ,of course, made to suit the seam lines. What I can use will have straight border embroidery, so I might have to compensate for that with gathering/shaping darts or seams.... hmm...

Any ideas and suggestions are more than welcome  :)

12
Thank you elephun, food for thought indeed. I'm still wrecking my brain about the mullet and ruching detail....

13
Ever since I saw Rosamund Pike in that Antonio Berardi dress I pondered about how to approach the pattern.
I intend to make it in eyelet cotton, but just can't get my head around the pattern bit.
It does look like a mullet dress, that is draped/ruched up at the side seam.

Any input on either a pattern to startwith or modifying an existing basic pattern is more than welcome.





Here a picture from the show, I like Rosamund Pike's version a lot more....


14
In the wardrobe / Re: Sewing darts - where do you start?
« on: August 05, 2017, 01:52:42 AM »
For anyone curious about Alison Smith's method, I found a taster video of her craftsy course of couture dressmaking techniques and it's the sewing darts bit!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdeEF-9U86U
[edited to sort out link that i could do on tablet last night]

Out of curiosity I watched that video. Most of the time I wondered how she can get any sewing done with all that jewellery on her fingers and those nails   :devil:
I'm firmly in the 'mark dart with chalk and sew from the wide side' camp  :)

15
Fun with Fabric / Re: What have you bought?
« on: August 04, 2017, 00:53:40 AM »
The fabrics arrived today, and they are beautiful   :)
Earlier this week my colleagues and I went to Sham Shui Po (Hong Kong's garment district) and I found this Chanel like viscose tweed/boucle for £3.50 per meter

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