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Messages - Holly Berry

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1
Current Projects / Re: Christmas tree skirt
« on: December 22, 2019, 13:18:05 PM »
I found the pattern on YouTube https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yA-f2a3icIo. The link to the pdf pattern doesn’t work, but I downloaded it from Studio E fabrics website.

There is also a tutorial by the same lady for doing the inny outy pointy bits.  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5hv53Eq44Uo

It was easy, once I’d done a couple of the points. The hardest bit was trying to scale up the templates on my printer!!

I used mainly fat quarters and metre piece I bought in Doughty’s January sales, but had to buy the backing fabric, which I also cut the binding from. I cut straight grain binding for the points as they were on the bias, and bias binding for the centre. My tip, watch the binding video before trimming around the points.

2
Current Projects / Re: Christmas tree skirt
« on: December 21, 2019, 11:57:36 AM »
Thanks for your lovely comments. If I were to do it again, I would baste together the open ends and trim the wadding and backing as a square before quilting, as it was difficult to keep rolled under the the machine’s harp.

@snoozi soozi yes it’s a sheffellera.

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Beautiful work of art

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Current Projects / Christmas tree skirt
« on: December 20, 2019, 18:10:03 PM »
After 20 years of putting up our artificial tree, I decided to make it a skirt.

Quick project I though, even though I don’t do much patchwork. I hadn’t bargained for the inny/outy pointy bits.

One of my dogs loves it.....to lie on!! I had a really cute photo opportunity, but she moved at the last minute.


5
Not sure about the chassis of the computerised one I don't like or use, but the model that @SkoutSews and I have has a metal chassis. I think that is another reason why my ancient (1989) Brother 730D 3 thread overlock which I actually think was made by Viking Husqvarna (seen identical model in US with Husky badge) sounds and usually performs better than the Brother 2104 4 thread I bought as a back up a couple of years ago. The old one's chassis is metal.

I believe it was the other way round, that Brother made the Huskylock. When the blades went on mine a few years back, the service engineer told me the machines were made by Brother and parts were interchangeable. Somebody else makes the Huskylock now.

6
I inherited my Mum’s Husqvarna #1 which was one of the first all bells and whistles computerised machines of the early 90s.

It has something called Sewing Advisor, where you tell it what you want to sew eg lightweight jersey and it will set tension, foot pressure stitch length and even tell you which foot you need. You do have the option of overriding if you want.

I loved this machine so much that I bought the Husqvarna Sapphire. I love the auto cut, although I still, on seams, don’t use it very often, only through habit. I also love the fix at the beginning and end, up down needle and that the foot lifts with a tap on the foot pedal.

However the overriding positive about my manual Singers is the quality of the straight stitch and button hole attachment, my modern computerised stitch isn’t as good. However, the Husqvarna is so easy to use I rarely get the Singer out unless I’m sewing upholstery.

The other downside is maintenance. I can strip my Singers down and do all the maintenance myself, but the computerised ones have to go a service engineer, although I do clean it after every use.

My verdict, the computerised one are so much more versatile, maybe need more reading of the manual and practice to get the best out of them.

7
The Haberdashery / Re: Rough pins
« on: December 05, 2019, 18:16:08 PM »
You need to fill it with sand instead as sand apparently keeps pins sharp!

My mouse pin cushion has emery sand in the base and it does keep the pins sharp. As it was for wearing on my wrist I wanted something lighter, but it didn’t work.

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The Haberdashery / Re: Rough pins
« on: December 04, 2019, 23:43:38 PM »
I made myself a wrist pin cushion, with velvet covering a foam rubber dome. I stopped using it as I found it blunted pins.

9
I’ve got the Coverpro 1000, which until a few weeks ago I would gladly have thrown out of the window. I’d tried every suggestion on the Internet, but nothing cured the skipped stitches and tunnelling on flimsier fabric, until I read on Facebook about adjusting the back feed dogs. What a difference, definitely now a keeper. Not only were the front ones higher, but the back ones weren’t level, no wonder they didn’t feed the fabric properly!! My only complaint now is that it’s a bit plasticky.

If and when I come to replace it, it will be a Juki, simply because, I’ve got a Juki overlocker and I’m soooo impressed with it. It’s so solid and feels like it’s built to last.

10
Overlockers & Coverstitchers / Re: Janome coverstitch skipped stitches
« on: November 26, 2019, 11:34:22 AM »
Until reading the FB page I hadn’t thought about the feed dogs. On closer inspection the back ones were lower and not level. All I did was set them level with the front and hey presto perfect stitches. I’ve use on fleece and denim ( not flat fell seams) and flimsy John Caldor jersey. I haven’t even had to adjust the tension.

My suspicion is that at the factory they are just put in and probably only adjusted on some for quality control. This could explain why they work well for some and others just can’t get them to work despite adjusting tensions differential feed etc.

11
Overlockers & Coverstitchers / Re: Janome coverstitch skipped stitches
« on: November 25, 2019, 21:12:46 PM »
A bit late coming to this, but I too have raised the back feed dogs on my Coverpro 1000 CPX after seeing this on Facebook and it has been a revelation. I was about to throw it out of the window as I’ve never successfully used it. It’s a keeper now.

As so many people have the same problem with Janome, and have altered the feed dogs and had success, it makes you wonder if some aren’t adjusted properly at the factory?


12
Vintage Machines / Re: Going to be rewriring a 221 - want to watch?
« on: September 30, 2019, 09:20:32 AM »
My ‘54 221k had a cylindrical capacitor, which I removed, so that green wire is probably from there as I can’t see a capacitor. They were put in the reduce noise and interference from radio, shortwave??

I’ll follow with interest, as mine really needs rewiring, but I know nothing about electrics, my OH though does, but has been reluctant to have a go in case he renders it useless. Would it be possible to let us know where you source your new wires from.

I agree with you about the oil/grease, it’s perished most of the wire protection on mine.

13
Technical Help / Re: About interfacing.
« on: September 05, 2019, 17:47:09 PM »
When I made this jacket I used fusible knit interfacing. https://www.sewessential.co.uk/vlieseline-vilene-fusible-woven-bi-stretch-interfacing-75cm-wide-white.

In fact I use this on everything now including wovens, as well as jersey.

Tip. When fusing interfacing on fleece, press on a thick folded towel to prevent flattening the pile

14
In the wardrobe / Re: Love Notions Harmony - Full bust version
« on: September 03, 2019, 14:03:18 PM »
Sorry Annie, missed this completely.

It looks lovely and well done on the FBA, perfect fit. The binding is very effective, too good to just be a toile.

15
Sewing Spaces and Furniture / Re: Cutting table
« on: August 29, 2019, 09:27:26 AM »
@sewingj I spoke to Horn before I bought mine and they said not a sewing machine because of it’s weight and “bounce”, but an overlocker or coverstitch would be ok.

I would find it too high to sew on anyway, as I would have to stand up to sew. If I sat on a bar stool type chair I couldn’t reach the foot pedal.

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