The Sewing Place
The Emporia => Fun with Fabric => Topic started by: sewingj on November 21, 2017, 07:31:03 AM
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That’s a vey logical assumption to make. However, what it means is the direction from one selvege edge to the other. All knits have varying degrees of stretch in this direction. The lengthwise direction (same direction as the selvage) may have any amount, from none to lots of stretch. Confusingly, a fabric which only has stretch width-wise is often called 2-way stretch and if it stretches in both directions it’s called 4-way. Good luck with your project!
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I’ve never measured any knits... every piece of knit fabric behaves differently. I find the stretchier the fabric then I may go down a size.
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That "crosswise folded" term would have thrown me too :S
I don't sew with knits half as much as I should so I'm no expert, but I've referred back to this article a few times when trying to figure out if a knit fabric has a suitable stretch for a pattern: https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2014/04/about-knit-fabrics-what-and-where.html (https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2014/04/about-knit-fabrics-what-and-where.html)
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I suspect having to work out the stretch and suitability of different knits puts a lot of people off starting to work with them.
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This is a timely thread for me....I am endeavouring to do more knits as they are quick to do and I like not having to 'set in sleeves' etc...hate that job.
One point, on the back of a pattern which is for stretch knits it usually gives you a guide as to how far a fabric needs to stretch to be correct for the pattern use.
I have sewed fleece and some lighter knits, stretch jersey etc but am wondering have any of you used the chunkier knits to make a sweater weight garment? There is one on Fabric Godmother I'm sort of interested in.....(see if I can link)
http://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/ottavio-wool-mix-knit-pink-blue/
Thoughts and advice welcome - my aim is to make a quick warm sweater......
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If using patterns from the big companies they have a stretch guide on the back of the envelopes to determine if your chosen fabric is right.
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I have a printed out stretch guide that shows what percentage of stretch your fabric has - it has a scale on it and you stretch a piece of the fabric and see how far it goes. It was free from one of the indie pattern companies, but I can't remember which one.
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Another thing you have to bear in mind is recovery. If the fabric doesn’t return to the 4inches or very near to it, it’s likely to “bag” on certain garments. This would be important for trousers/leggings, straight dresses when sitting down, and for sports, dance and swimming garments.
Elastane (Lycra/Spandex) is added to allow the fabric to stretch and return.
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Another thing you have to bear in mind is recovery.
Elastane (Lycra/Spandex) is added to allow the fabric to stretch and return.
Yes, I've learnt over the years not to buy interlock for tee shirts. I usually only buy jersey with elastane in it. Sweater knits are different.
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Yes, I've learnt over the years not to buy interlock for tee shirts. I usually only buy jersey with elastane in it. Sweater knits are different.
So no one has yet come forward to let me know if they have used a sweater knit to sew a sweater suitable for winter.
I am interested to hear the pros and cons of the heavier jersey qualities.
Do tell!
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Oh dear, I should not start a sentence with 'So' - so sorry!!
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Oh dear, I should not start a sentence with 'So' - so sorry!!
0_0 0_0 0_0
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Start your sentences with 'sew' rather than 'so'...... :D
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Like that!!
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The fabric you’ve posted about looks like it has a stabilising thread running through it, so it may not be as stretchy as you think and behave more like a stable, but loose weave. I would get a sample and see what it’s like.
I haven’t sewn this type of fabric yet, I have some similar in my stash, but I would sew the seams with 4 thread overlocker and stabilise the shoulders, and use a knit interfacing. Hopefully, someone will have sewn this and be of more help.
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Thanks HollyBerry for replying.....just an ordinary machine here, no overlocker etc....but interfacing yes.
Thanks for all that information. Just want to know what others think.
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Sorry, not specific to sweater knits, but about size. I find it more useful to work out what size to cut a pattern for a given knit by taking the piece to a mirror, wrapping it round my hips to the desired degree of tightness and measuring the width used - then checking the actual measurements of the pattern at hip level. This allows for how figure hugging one might want the finished result.
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Hernibs - that fabric looks lovely but do get a sample because I have a feeling it might fray when cut. Look at the Jalie site for videos on sewing knit fabric with a sewing machine.
Can't help with actually using sweater knits, it's on my list of things to do.
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Hernibs, I haven't made jumpers out of any of this sort of thing. I prefer cardigans or jacket types.
I'm afraid when you put the link up I saw the word 'wool' and thought aaagggggghhhhh. I can't wear wool ne t to my skin so wouldn't have been one I might have used. I have had a look and it does look nice, shame it would drive me mad.
It would be a really good idea to get a sample as Maximum said. Could you email and ask what sort of stretch it has? Other than that I really like jen's idea for determining the width you need, it's so logical and simple!
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I like Jen's idea too. Very simple, and I don't know why I've never thought to do it this way before!
Thanks Jen!
Jessie