The Sewing Place

The Emporia => A bit of a 'do' => Topic started by: charlotte on April 21, 2017, 14:25:05 PM

Title: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 21, 2017, 14:25:05 PM
I have four weddings in the next two years – two I am a bridesmaid at so no need to worry about what to wear there – although one may involve the bride-to-be choosing fabric and me making my dress, and possibly helping another bridesmaid to make hers, but that will be a whole different thread.

The other two are consecutive weekends in October. One of them is a multi-cultural Bangladeshi-English affair. The first part would be more English (her family) and the second part more Bangladesh (his) and there was even the suggestion from the groom’s cousin that we could do a costume change half way through! My idea was to make a western style dress out of sari silk – although I did worry that this would not be warm enough for October.

Anyway… my latest issue of Threads magazine arrived with an article on sewing with Sari silk (yay!) but also this top on the front cover:

(http://threadsmagazine.assets.tauntonnet.com/assets/uploads/posts/66743/T190-cover-digital-issue_xl.jpg?20160629)

So now my idea is (drum roll) a peacock blue silk dupion shift dress (fabric from India, so correct vague geographic area at least), with a sheer panel of peacock feathers (like the one down the centre of the top, but I don't want a sheer bit over my boobs!) going horizontally just above the hem, and also a vertical one on the upper back (above bra line). My idea is that the sheer panel at the bottom will reflect the border pattern on the pallu of a sari.

It’s a bit dressier than what I would normally wear to a wedding but I think you can get away with that for a winter wedding, and the multi-cultural nature will mean there will be a real mix of styles anyway.
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Francesca on April 21, 2017, 14:41:41 PM
I think that sounds gorgeous!

Could you put the "sheer" layer over the top of something else? I think it'll look really nice.
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Snowgoose on April 21, 2017, 14:55:48 PM
That would be absolutely beautiful!  I do envy you ladies - and gentlemen  :) - that can do 'proper' sewing  8)
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 21, 2017, 15:13:52 PM
I did think about something behind the sheer panel but I though you would lose the floating effect, so I decided to just go for a more strategic placement.
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Iminei on April 21, 2017, 15:19:03 PM
love it, post loads of gorgeous pics please!
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Samantha on April 21, 2017, 15:27:23 PM
Love the dress on Threads and also your dress ideas - hope you post photos!
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Mama likes to make on April 21, 2017, 15:35:27 PM
Gorgeous
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Kittensposies on April 21, 2017, 15:47:26 PM
That sounds gorgeous!!!

You must post photos, it's compulsory;)
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Tamnymore on April 21, 2017, 16:02:30 PM
Many, many years ago I made my own wedding dress from royal blue silk with an overlay of peacock feather print on the skirt (Liberty Hera silk chiffon) and I think it looked very effective- not unlike the effect here though more demure. Of course the dress has unaccountably shrunk in the wardrobe in the intervening decades  ;)........
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: b15erk on April 21, 2017, 16:19:40 PM
Sounds lovely!  Happy to cheer you on with this one!

Jessie
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: UttaRetch on April 21, 2017, 18:16:18 PM
... I don't want a sheer bit over my boobs!)

What about a panel with peacock feathers.  Asian fabric shops sell trimmings like this

(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcR3Jx66mwmdQSc1d7kjLADZd_gzOuwRIqv9IOHDp44JUcdXO6UIpr6zDkNbbQ&usqp=CAE)

and you may come across just the thing.  I would also check that no [bad] symbolism is attached to the peacock. 

Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: DementedFairy on April 21, 2017, 22:15:13 PM
I wore peacock coloured silks for my daughter's October wedding- a dress and coat, both from vintage patterns.  Both were underlined in silk organza, and also lined.  Warm as toast!

I bought peacock feather clips to tart up some boring black slingbacks, and put peacock feathers in my hat.  I loved it!

Some people think peacock feathers are unlucky, but you won't get that interpretation at an Indian wedding, so I wouldn't worry!
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Catllar on April 21, 2017, 23:15:28 PM
You could back the sheer bit with a flesh coloured silk organza or similar to avoid spoiling the look.
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 24, 2017, 14:06:56 PM
Thanks for all the suggestions. :D

I thought about a flesh coloured backing, or wearing a flesh coloured slip but I don't even want it to look like I have sheer bits in potentially inappropriate places, especially for a Muslim wedding :| so I'll just make sure they are only revealing bits of skin I don't mind having on display!

The bride is not superstitious at all and I'm fairly sure there aren't any peacock feather issues in Muslim culture - peacocks are a symbol of royalty so they'll just think I have ideas above my station!

I got my fabric out and I think the silk dupion is more like a raw silk - I'm not sure what the difference is to be honest, but this is finer and more slub-y than silk dupion I've used in the past. It's also fairly transluscent so I am underlining with subtle grey wax printed/ tie dyed cotton (instead of the silk organza I originally planned) which gives a lovely effect when the light shines through it.

I've cut out all my pieces and marked all my stitching lines on the underlining and now I'm just hand-tacking my layers together, then I'll get to work on the sheer back panel (pictures soon!).

I'll do a hand tacked fabric fit before I sew everything together properly.

I probably won't even be able to dry clean this dress with the feathers, etc., so I'm thinking I will make a separate slip instead of a lining, with thread chains and snaps to attach it at the shoulders, as well as removable dress shields at the underarms, so at least those bits can be washed!
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Catllar on April 25, 2017, 20:13:59 PM
Sounds like a plan!
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 29, 2017, 16:05:12 PM
I'm at the tacking together for fitting stage. Here's a picture of the back yoke panel.

(https://i.imgur.com/eN2LzCN.jpg)
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Efemera on April 29, 2017, 16:37:06 PM
That's going to be a work of art... fabulous.
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Fiona M on April 29, 2017, 16:52:27 PM
It's going to be gorgeous!  Can't wait to see the finished item.
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: UttaRetch on April 29, 2017, 17:25:29 PM
It's looking good, Charlotte.  I downloaded a copy of that Threads issue and didn't realise there was so much work involved in actually creating the panel.
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 29, 2017, 20:31:18 PM
Tack fitting has revealed the slight issue that I cannot get in or out of it.  :S Because of the back panel it has to have a side zip and with the sleeves it is a real battle to get on and off

I will lower the front neck and increase the armholes (and sleeves) a touch. Unfortunately I can't really tell if it will be okay until the sleeve seam allowances are trimmed, so I will just go for it and absolute worse case scenario it will have to be sleeveless.

I have a dress from the same pattern in cotton with a side zip and that works fine, so I am hoping it will be okay with just those slight adjustments.
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Catllar on April 29, 2017, 21:23:40 PM
Wot, you mean you don't have collapsible shoulders!!!
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Francesca on April 29, 2017, 21:36:37 PM
That is so beautiful!
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: charlotte on May 02, 2017, 23:42:36 PM
Got one sleeve in and it fits, so that is a huge relief!
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: BrendaP on May 20, 2017, 21:20:44 PM
It's looking really good - and unique 0_0

Because of the back panel it has to have a side zip and with the sleeves it is a real battle to get on and off


IME getting out of a dress with a side zip is more difficult than getting into it.
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: charlotte on May 22, 2017, 10:30:44 AM
Yes, BrendaP - it's still rather tricky to wiggle out of, but it's doable!!

So pretty much all that's left to do is hemming (it's all pinned in place) and then I want to add some bra catches to keep the shoulders in place and some dress shields under the arms.

The trouble is I'm just not sure about it.  :S I tried it on again last night and I do like it a lot (which is good, because I thought I didn't). The problem is I'm worried that it looks a bit too Asian (much more so than I was expecting), so I am a bit worried about cultural appropriation and looking a bit silly, especially as we have been told it is 'not an Asian wedding'. I will get some pictures up soon and you can all give opinions! Plus I have my mum and my sewing friend round next weekend so they can have a look as well.




Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Francesca on May 22, 2017, 10:35:32 AM
Interested to see a full picture of it, but I really wouldn't worry. As long as you are not breaking any sort of sacred rules, it's just fashion. And you've been invited to join (this is the argument usually used in cultural appropriation discussions, have you been invited into it or not. I don't fully believe in cultural appropriation at the same level some do, but this is usually their distinction).
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: Ploshkin on May 22, 2017, 11:13:03 AM
I would think what you wear with it i.e. shoes, jewellery etc and how you have your hair will determine how more or less Asian it looks.  I love Chinese style tops but I definitely don't look as though I'm trying to appear  Chinese when I wear one.
Title: Re: Silk Dupion Peacock Dress
Post by: maliw on May 22, 2017, 17:19:27 PM
Years ago while shopping at Bombay Stores in Bradford I asked one of the assistants if it bothered them that we wanted to wear their clothes, the reply was that they looked on it as an honour, so go ahead and wear your dress with pride. The reason I asked in the store was because when we lived in Glasgow I got some very negative comments from people when I mentioned wearing a tartan, no I don't belong to a clan but it wasn't seen as an honour for someone wanting to wear the tartan.