Yes Wrenkins I am desperate to learn that you have mastered an FBA once and for all and that you now have a top that fits you and covers you where you want it to cover.
Now whilst only Wrenkins knows about my recent tissue fitting on my personal dress stand (one that was made to be me some 10 years ago now and more recently padded out to be more realistic to today's shape) I actually had part of my pattern for a robe drawn out on tissue paper and this part included CF line plus the fold line for facing, shoulder line - well beginning of it, side seam and armhole these were taken from a top that I had made the pattern for and fitted me, and the rest was from a long ankle length towelling robe that has seen better days. I must add that I have strings of curtain weights sewn on to my dress stand, so I could feel where the ridges were and pinned the tissue in place down the CF, the side seam and the beginning of the shoulder seam. I then smoothed the tissue paper across over the upper chest towards the armhole and then from the armhole towards the wave of tissue of the upper chest and a dart magically appeared and that was so easy. Then I did the same for the underarm dart, and these two darts look just right and appear to give me the shape I need. So in theory instead of having one huge underarm dart, and I do mean huge, having two darts, one at the underarm and one from the shoulder so far is looking good, and if this works well on this thin poly cotton, then I am hopeful that it will be the same on thicker fabrics.
So come on Wrenkins, find your pattern and order your fabric and let us see how you get on, or are you going to make a toile first?
I also have on a piece of coloured card the shape of an armhole that I am happy with, so I tend to use this armhole on anything I make - again this was trial and error getting it right, and like Wrenkins I do not like a bra showing under the arms.
Back to my old towelling robe this had dropped sleeves, and a shawl collar and a wrapped front with a tie belt, well I didn't want most of that, certainly not the dropped sleeves, the shawl collar and wrapped front with tie belt. So I have spent quite a while playing with tissue paper and have now created a pattern for my new robe that will have a buttoned front, set in sleeves, and a little shallow frilled neckline.
I have 14mtrs. of fabric left over from when I made two previous nightdresses, so I am getting a new ankle length robe and three ankle length nightdresses from all of this, and whilst the nightdresses again my own pattern so a peasant style neckline elasticated, puffed elasticated short sleeves, and a deep frill at the hem, I then turn under just the depth of the overlocking stitch and then embroider a delightful small scallop stitch all around the hems of the frill, the neck edge and the sleeve hems, and I will also stitch this scallop on the hem of the robe, and the sleeve hem and also the edge of the neck frill. I have spent a few days working out the layout and cutting out of all of this, as when I ironed the fabric ready for use came across some flaws in the weave, some worse than others, so it has been a bit of a juggling act, but I think I am there now for the final lot of cutting out. The fabric is a lovely poly cotton, so just right for the summer, but I will then have to make myself another robe for the winter months.