The Sewing Place

How much extra for checked fabrics?

Missie

How much extra for checked fabrics?
« on: June 03, 2020, 09:24:21 AM »
Hi All,

I'm going to be making a tailored trouser suit for my friend's daughter; it's for her graduation next year.  She has picked out the fabric (a checked fabric in pink).  How much extra would they need to get over and above the suggested yardage to allow for pattern matching.  I really need to get this right as this young lady deserves a special outfit.  Thanks all.

BrendaP

Re: How much extra for checked fabrics?
« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2020, 10:01:43 AM »
It depends on the size of the checks and on the layout.  For each main piece across the width of the fabric you need to allow a full pattern repeat. 

For instance if the folded fabric is wide enough to get both trouser leg pieces side by side you will need to add a pattern repeat to the length of the pieces. If the fabric requires the legs to be cut one above the other you will need two extra repeats.  Same with the jacket pieces.  Each 'row' of pattern pieces will require an extra repeat.

If it's a case of placing, say, a jacket front next to a trouser leg the chances are that the jacket piece will be shorter than the leg and so whatever fabric is allowed for the trouser piece will be enough for the jacket piece.

Can you post a picture of the suggested layout?
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Missie

Re: How much extra for checked fabrics?
« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2020, 11:08:42 AM »
@BrendaP   therein lies the problem.  I haven't yet sourced the pattern.  My friend has the found the fabric on Ebay, so I have suggested she get the fabric sooner rather than later.  I was just going to take a ball park on a variety of patterns and then add extra on for pattern matching, but wanted a rough guide.

wrenkins

Re: How much extra for checked fabrics?
« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2020, 11:12:15 AM »
I have no idea but I will give you this pearl of wisdom passed down by a wise old colleague.

Better looking at it than looking for it!
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

BrendaP

Re: How much extra for checked fabrics?
« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2020, 13:34:08 PM »
@BrendaP   therein lies the problem.  I haven't yet sourced the pattern.  My friend has the found the fabric on Ebay, so I have suggested she get the fabric sooner rather than later.  I was just going to take a ball park on a variety of patterns and then add extra on for pattern matching, but wanted a rough guide.
How wide is the fabric?  That will give you an idea as to how it might be laid out.

Trousers usually have four pieces, two fronts and two backs and should be easy enough to guage the required length  by measuring another pattern.

A jacket will typically have a back, two fronts and two sleeves, but any of those pieces might be split to form princess seams or a two piece sleeve.  If that happens you need to ensure that bottom edges of fronts and backs are all level and that all sleeve parts have the lower edges at the same level.  You could get a good idea using an existing pattern

Other pieces don't usually need pattern matching, and even if they do the chances are that the extra needed for the other pieces is likely to accomodate them.

Bottom line though is that you over order rather than trying to skimp and then not have enough.

Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Missie

Re: How much extra for checked fabrics?
« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2020, 13:52:16 PM »
Bottom line though is that you over order rather than trying to skimp and then not have enough.

Lol, I'm definitely no skimper, well not when I'm making for others.  I always ask them to get at least 1m extra fabric, just in case of any mishaps, or mis-weaving!  Just not sure how much would be appropriate for pattern matching.  I made a jacket about 20 years ago which had to be pattern-matched, but I've not idea how much extra I got.

Greybird

Re: How much extra for checked fabrics?
« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2020, 14:09:53 PM »
@Missie on my diary thread (greybird 2020) there is a blue jacket on which I had to line up the pattern, although not exactly match it, I had 2 metres to start with but had to send for another metre  because, although there was plenty of fabric the pattern was just too big. Might this give you a rough idea?

elisep

Re: How much extra for checked fabrics?
« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2020, 07:52:49 AM »
I can’t offer any suggestions on how much extra to buy I’m afraid, but I just wanted to also mention, make sure it is a balanced plaid/check!

I once got some pretty plaid wool fabric on sale and proceeded to make it up into a coat. I just could not get the checks to match up and finally realised that it wasn’t a balanced plaid - only slightly rectangular so not obvious at first glance, but became obvious when trying to match up the pieces, and I ended up binning it.
Possibly why it was on sale. Learn from my mistake!!
Stash Busting 2023
Used: 4 metres

Missie

Re: How much extra for checked fabrics?
« Reply #8 on: June 05, 2020, 08:41:44 AM »
Thanks for that tip @elisep .  I've been sent a pic of the fabric; its a Royal Stewart Blackwatch tartan in shocking pink and it's only 44" wide!

jintie

Re: How much extra for checked fabrics?
« Reply #9 on: June 05, 2020, 09:25:40 AM »
Missie, can you gently persuade her to go for something like a marl that's much easier to match, and easier to wear after the event? Tartan sounds a nightmare.
Rottweiler with scissors

BrendaP

Re: How much extra for checked fabrics?
« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2020, 10:31:37 AM »
Is it this?  Ebay is telling me it's a sell that I have bought from in the past.

I used something very similar for a winter shirt about 18 months ago - it definitely has a viscose content - and although I always prewash fabrics for making clothes this fabric continued to shrink and after a few washes the shirt became uncomfortably tight and I couldn't move my arms with the buttons fastened.   It's not me that's got bigger because two other shirts from the same pattern still fit.

That shirt has gone so I can't measure, but from memory the pattern repeat is about 4-5"/10-12cm.

44 inches wide means that you will probably get one pair of trouser pieces from the folded width, so that's two lots of pattern repeats extra.  A jacket front front from the width and a jacket back from the width, so that's another two pattern repeats, and then a pair of sleeves from the width and to get the pattern matching at the tops of the sleeves allow another pattern repeat.
  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
colour looks darker in the photo than it was.


« Last Edit: June 05, 2020, 10:38:58 AM by BrendaP »
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.