The Sewing Place

Practice Dress

charlotte

Practice Dress
« on: June 03, 2020, 10:41:11 AM »
Now that I have drafted the pattern and done my toile fitting for my wedding dress, I am embarking on a 'practice dress', using the same pattern, with a shorter, slightly less full, skirt, and a sheer yoke, rather than a full bodice overlay. The fabric is Liberty's Tana Lawn in "Eltham" (which I where I live, although unfortunately not in the actual palace the print is named after!) The yoke is a coordinating silk organza, which I will also use as an overlay on the waistband. I am just finishing off the bodice, so I thought I would share some progress shots.

Here is the right side. You can see the edge of the waist stay and wrong side of the corselette peeking out underneath. I didn't need to use the fashion fabric for the boning channels, but I had a long selvage edge so I went for it. I am currently finishing off the bias binding by hand around the neck and armholes.


And here is the inside. I used self-fabric for the corselette, which makes it tricky to photograph, but I think you can just make out the hanging loops, foam lined cups and underwires. I machined the two layers together but on my wedding dress I will attach them by hand. I still need to understitch, which I will do by hand.


And here from the back. The back panels of the bodice are not joined to the corselette so that they can fasten independently. I sewed the hooks and eyes in individually, which I think was ultimately easier than using tape, after watching lingerie week of GBSB! The waist and bust stays are elastic and fasten together at the waist due to the low back. They are secured at the centre front of the corselette and threaded through gaps left in the boning channels to keep them in position. The bottom edge of the corselette is finished with bias binding.


Possibly the most exciting part: corded rouleau loops and buttons! I made the loops myself but the buttons I had covered.


Once I have completed all the hand finishing on the bodice, I just need to sew the skirt seams (and inseam pockets, obviously) then attach the skirt and bodice with the waistband and hem it! I think that will all come together quite quickly, but we will see!

Acorn

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2020, 10:51:41 AM »
That is gorgeous!  It's going to be so useful having a hidden trial run for your wedding dress - you'll know if anything isn't absolutely as you want it to look and feel throughout the day.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2020, 11:31:32 AM »
@charlotte that is absolutely stunning.  Can’t wait to see it finished.  Where did you get your silk from?  I agree about the hand finishing.  It’s so much nicer and more flexible than machining. 

sewingj

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2020, 11:40:12 AM »
@charlotte   seriously impressive!  Is this what you do for a living?  I`m wondering how you learnt how to do it

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2020, 11:41:33 AM »
That looks lovely!

Efemera

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2020, 11:41:55 AM »
That’s  some dress!.... love to see the finished article

Ploshkin

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2020, 11:43:43 AM »
You should wear it as your wedding dress!
It's beautiful and such excellent workmanship.
Life's too short for ironing.

charlotte

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2020, 11:43:56 AM »
Where did you get your silk from?

It was from Euro Fabrics on eBay (silk organza, light China rose). I really like them for high quality plain coloured fabric. The cotton lawn underlining from my wedding dress is from them as well.

charlotte

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2020, 11:51:32 AM »
@charlotte   seriously impressive!  Is this what you do for a living?  I`m wondering how you learnt how to do it

Not at all - I'm a civil servant!! I am mostly self-taught. My mum showed me the machine/ dressmaking basics, and I have done a lot of reading and online classes - Winifred Aldrich and Suzy Furrer for pattern drafting, and then Alison Smith, Claire Shaeffer and Susan Khalje are my go-to authors/teachers for couture techniques! I am very sad that Bluprint (formerly Craftsy) is closing down, as I probably learned most from online classes there.

SkoutSews

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #9 on: June 03, 2020, 11:52:36 AM »
Beautiful! You have great sewing skills. Where did you learn to sew? (Now answered!)

I'm intrigued by the covered buttons, I didn't know that you could get them covered. I have always done my own, with mixed results as it's very fiddly.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #10 on: June 03, 2020, 12:07:34 PM »
I’m a huge fan of Claire Shaeffer, have several of her books and a video.  Also have Susan Khalje's bridal book.  Stuffed full,of useful info not just for wedding gowns.  Even now I might flick through some of these and think 'ooh, that’s a useful tip or trick I didn’t know'. 

Missie

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2020, 12:25:31 PM »
That is utterly beautiful @charlotte and the finish is excellent.

My only comment would be in regards to your wedding dress, I would make the waist stay non-elasticated.  Its purpose is to support the weight of the skirt, which given your wedding dress will have a fuller skirt and therefore be heavier, an elasticated stay will not support as much as non-elasticated.

charlotte

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2020, 12:33:55 PM »
I'm intrigued by the covered buttons, I didn't know that you could get them covered. I have always done my own, with mixed results as it's very fiddly.

Mine were from Bridal Covered Buttons. They were very quick and (I thought) very reasonably priced. They do loops as well, but I wasn't ready to commit to the spacing.

Sandra

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #13 on: June 03, 2020, 13:23:25 PM »
Beautiful work.  :)

Sandra.
xxx

Ellabella

Re: Practice Dress
« Reply #14 on: June 03, 2020, 13:29:45 PM »
That’s wonderful,you should be very proud.