The Sewing Place

Another collar question

sewmuchmore

Another collar question
« on: June 19, 2020, 09:16:48 AM »
OK, so in all my years of sewing i have not yet found a good method of dealing  with those pesky little triangle you have when you have attached the collar band to the garment. I have tried cutting them close to the stitch line, not ideal. Cutting the stand a slightly different shape on the edge, no that didn't work. I usually end up shoving them inside and quickly sewing the edge then give it a good bashing with my toffee hammer (oh so useful for lots of sewing technique's).
But the result is always the same, a bumpy lump.
Anyone any tips?
It's not easy being this perfekt

Janet

Greybird

Re: Another collar question
« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2020, 09:56:35 AM »
No - mine are the same and I thought it was just me!

Ploshkin

Re: Another collar question
« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2020, 10:17:45 AM »
I've not found the magic solution either but I live in hope.  I think it does help if you turn up the bottom seam allowance of the inside collar stand before you sew it to the outer so it is stitched in place at both ends but you do then have to be very precise at the ends when attaching the collar.
Another thing I have tried is attaching the outer collar stand to the neck first then pin on the inner stand, turn up the lower seam allowance of the inner stand so that you know it will cover the stitching line, then sew the outer and inner together stitching over the turned up 'hem' at each end which holds it in place.
 I also cut off the seam allowances from the collar stand interfacing which loses a bit of bulk.
That's all probably as clear as mud!

Life's too short for ironing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Another collar question
« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2020, 13:42:55 PM »
@sewmuchmore I’m assuming this is a shirt style collar with separate stand? 
It’s a while since I did one of these but I use the burrito method.  The stand is sewn to the garment and then the collar is sewn in after.  It makes for a very neat finish.  If anyone has David Page Coffin's shirtmaking book or Singer Sewing for Style it is in both of those. 

dolcevita

Re: Another collar question
« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2020, 14:49:09 PM »
It helps if your interfacing only goes as far as the stitching line rather than all the way to the edge as this removes two or more layers of interfacing at this junction. Also, finishing the edge of the collar a couple of mm away from the front edge rather than right up against it gives the collar a bit of fabric to wrap around the front/front facing rather than trying to stuff it all up into that tight corner, which then wrinkles and gives bumps.

Efemera

Re: Another collar question
« Reply #5 on: June 19, 2020, 15:33:55 PM »
I use this method... don’t know if it’s any different from yours.
http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2013/09/sewing-collar-different-order.html

sewingj

Re: Another collar question
« Reply #6 on: June 19, 2020, 16:29:25 PM »
Thanks so much for that @Efemera . I made a shirt last week and was very pleased with it except for the wretched collar stand. I'll certainly give this method a go next tine

coffeeandcake

Re: Another collar question
« Reply #7 on: June 19, 2020, 16:34:45 PM »
I use the same method as Efemera. It transforms collars. :D

Ohsewsimple

Re: Another collar question
« Reply #8 on: June 19, 2020, 17:02:45 PM »
Pretty similar.  Works so much better than making it all up and then trying to sew it on the garment. 

Flobear

Re: Another collar question
« Reply #9 on: June 19, 2020, 19:18:13 PM »
Thanks @Efemera I intend to give that method a go. I've made so many over the years that I have probably tried it like that but I can't remember now!
Proud new owner of Elvistoo !!

sewmuchmore

Re: Another collar question
« Reply #10 on: June 21, 2020, 19:23:52 PM »
@Ploshkin i understood what you were describing, it is basically what i do and the method is the same as the link @Efemera posted. Interesting the blogger still has the pesky tringles and she talks about pushing (shoving) the seam allowance inside. @dolcevita I do trim away the interfacing before finishing the collar, just didn't do it before i took the photo but i will try finishing the edge a couple of mm away from the front edge next time. I think i will just have to persevere.
It's not easy being this perfekt

Janet