The Sewing Place

Sleeve confusion

snoozi soozi

Sleeve confusion
« on: June 20, 2020, 12:16:33 PM »
I need advice and guidance please.

I'm setting in sleeves on a dress, gathering at the sleeve head. Now, I always thought that once this was done, the sleeve head would magically smooth out and would not be wrinkled. But, I cannot fathom how to set the sleeve in without some wrinkles showing.   :thinking:

What is the right way?
Let it sew, let it sew, let it sew

So Chic

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #1 on: June 20, 2020, 12:44:49 PM »
I always use the Ann Ladbury method which doesn't involve gathering the sleeve head but uses masses of pins.  I will try to find details and let you have them if I can work out how to scan and send.
So Chic
Bernina Artista 630, Bernina 800DL, Janome Cover Pro 1000CP and an elderly Singer Touch & Sew 720G as a back up

Ploshkin

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2020, 12:50:21 PM »
Are you using only one line of gathering stitch?  You get a much better gather with 2 lines.  Makes it easier too.
Life's too short for ironing.

So Chic

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2020, 13:08:26 PM »
@snoozi soozi
I've managed to find details but can't work out how to send it to you as there doesn't seem to be anything that will allow me to send it as a document through TSP.  I could post it or try to send it in an email.

Also I found details on YouTube by Clothing Patterns 101 which shows this method.
« Last Edit: June 20, 2020, 13:23:41 PM by So Chic »
So Chic
Bernina Artista 630, Bernina 800DL, Janome Cover Pro 1000CP and an elderly Singer Touch & Sew 720G as a back up

snoozi soozi

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2020, 16:26:34 PM »
@Ploshkin I use two lines of gathering stitches quite close to the raw edge, should they be further in?

@So Chic thank you I'll have a watch of the tut later, am having a much-needed coffee  :P
Let it sew, let it sew, let it sew

Ploshkin

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2020, 16:41:00 PM »
@snoozi soozi the gathefing lines should be close to the stitching line.  If its a 5/8" seam I do the first one 1 /2" from the edge and the second closer to the seam line but  still within the seam allowance .
Life's too short for ironing.

Flobear

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2020, 16:46:46 PM »
And you might find it helps to stay-stitch the armhole just inside the seam allowance line then clip the inward curves.
Proud new owner of Elvistoo !!

Elnnina

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2020, 16:53:46 PM »
i use a completely different method and it works extremely well for me.  It is on Youtube 'Ease sleeve cap using bias tape'.

I have cut my tape or strips of bias from calico 3.5 cms wide and 45cm long,  and have pressed a crease 1cm  in along one side only.  I then apply this to the sleeve head and machine stitch along the crease which is nearest to the cut sleeve cap and machine with a long stitch.  All of this is within the seam allowance, and it just works like magic.  You can then adjust the fullness or ease it out if too much before you actually sew the sleeve (still with the bias strip intact, just hold the loose edge up out of the way) into the armhole, remove the strip - the long stitch will just pull out, and you have a perfectly set in sleeve.

I picked this tip up I believe from Morgan a long time ago and it works well for me, so give it a go and see how you get on.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2020, 17:04:09 PM »
I use the staystitch plus method. 
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=N_eGgc4XcbkC&pg=PA150&lpg=PA150&dq=inserting+sleeves+with+staystitch+plus&source=bl&ots=B4y7M0aNl6&sig=ACfU3U2sEZWmq6xyJRwhsuE0GbBKNAssNA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj4oP3_4JDqAhUcQEEAHQn2AokQ6AEwCnoECAUQAQ#v=onepage&q=inserting%20sleeves%20with%20staystitch%20plus&f=false

It involves pushing fabric into the stitches as you sew.  See the photo with the yellow sleeve.  It automatically shapes the sleeve head for you.  Sometimes you might need to pull the threads up slightly to fit.  When I sew the sleeve in I always sew with the sleeve against the the feed dogs. This way the machine is easing in the fabric for you.  I’ve taught countless people this method and they could all put in a decent sleeve after.

snoozi soozi

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #9 on: June 20, 2020, 17:21:30 PM »
@Elnnina  I have watched the vid, that looks too good to be true  0_0

Can't wait to try it  :thumbsup:
Let it sew, let it sew, let it sew

Elnnina

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #10 on: June 20, 2020, 20:21:27 PM »
Snoozi soozi originally I cut myself two bias calico strips so both sleeves could be done at the same time, then last year I decided to make myself four new shirt type tops, of course in different colours, so I was trying to be more economic with my time, and as I was using more than one machine plus an overlocker, I cut myself some more, so when preparing the sleeves, they were all treated to this calico bias strip at the same time.  (yes I get through quantities of calico in my toile making!!)

When I have finished with them, I just roll them up in pairs and they sit happily in the corner of a box waiting for the next outing.

I agree with you it does look like magic and indeed it is magic, and I haven't been disappointed yet.  By the way I also sew my sleeves in using a triple straight stitch, this is a super stitch it goes forward one stitch, then back over that stitch, then forward again over the two previous stitches - so there are three on top of one another, before moving on and repeating the sequence again.  This has plenty of give in so you should run no risk of having an armhole seam popping.  This stitch can also be used especially on the crotch seam of trousers, and in fact anywhere where there is likely to be strain and the risk of popping.  BUT be warned, trying to unpick this stitch is near impossible and will drive you crazy.  Have a look at your stitches on your machine and see if this stitch is there - I have used this stitch hundreds of times on both adult and children's wear and haven't had it pop once.  If you have this stitch, grab a piece of fabric, fold it so it is double and stitch a line, then also stitch a line on the bias - then give the fabric a good tug and see if it will pop, also try an ordinary row of machining - nothing fancy just plain straight stitch, and then another using the triple straight stitch and again give the fabric a good tug and see what happens.

snoozi soozi

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #11 on: June 20, 2020, 21:01:46 PM »
Thank you so much for your valuable advice. I do have this stitch on my machine, I believe it's called a straight stretch stitch, it does give a very secure seam, I use it sometimes for strength.
Let it sew, let it sew, let it sew

Ploshkin

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #12 on: June 20, 2020, 22:54:51 PM »
That bias strip thing looks very natty - I'll give it ago some time.  You're never too old to learn.
Life's too short for ironing.

toileandtrouble

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #13 on: June 20, 2020, 23:24:45 PM »
i reduce the seam allowances on both sleeve and armhole to 6mm.  They are much easier to ease together then. If the fabric is apt to fray then I cut them with the overlocker.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

sewmuchmore

Re: Sleeve confusion
« Reply #14 on: June 21, 2020, 20:10:10 PM »
Some times, no matter which method of easing in the sleeve you use, you find that there is just too much fabric to get a clean seam. The big 4 are often guilty of this. You can remove some of the ease before you cut out the fabric. Fold out a small dart at the top of the sleeve and then reshape the pattern to give a gentler contour. You can find the method here but you will have to sign up for a free trial if you aren't already a member.
It's not easy being this perfekt

Janet