The Sewing Place

Neckline Help

fulhamnonny

Neckline Help
« on: July 02, 2020, 12:08:18 PM »
Hi Everyone,

I’m new to sewing and have started a new project, but I’m struggling with understanding the instructions for the neckline. The pictures don’t quite make sense either.

I’m making the Simplicity 8696 Kimono as a present.

The instructions read:

With Right Sides together, pin neckband to neck edge, matching centres back, placing small dots at shoulder seams and large dots at finished front edge. (End of neckband 1cm beyond front edge of kimono). Stitch 1cm seam. Trim seam and clip curves. Press neckband our pressing seam towards neckband.

Press under a scant 1cm on notched edge of neckband facing.
With Right sides together, pin neckband facing to neckband, matching centres back, having raw edges even. Stitch a 1cm seam, clip curves if necessary.

Under-stitch neckband facing as far as possible. Turn neckband facing to inside; press. Pin pressed edge of facing over seam, placing pins on outside.
On Outside stitch in the ditch of the seam, catching in pressed edge of facing on the inside.

For the 1st part of the instructions, it kind of shows the dots and that the interfacing is folded, with the notches inline with each other and pinned with the rights sides together and nothing on the wrong side. Is that I pin it, sew a 1cm seam, then fold the side with the interfacing back on itself.

For part 2, The first part is to just press a fold into the neckband facing at a scant 1cm? Do I pin the 2 neckbands at the top or towards the rest of the kimono? Where is the 1cm seam going?

All help is appreciated! TIA!

On part 3 where does the under stitching go?

Efemera

Re: Neckline Help
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2020, 12:50:12 PM »
I’d have to see the pictures to be able to help...

toileandtrouble

Re: Neckline Help
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2020, 14:25:29 PM »
When you have sewn the neckband on, it is pressed out so it almost looks as if the kimono is finished. The neckband facing lines the neckband.
When you have pressed under 1cm on the notched edge, put it right sides together on top of the neckband and stitch the outer edges together.
Press the facing out from the neckband, both part of the seam lying under the facing. To under stitch, sew close to the seam you just sewed, on the facing side. (This stops the facing from rolling out and spoiling your nice new neckband)
Now press the facing to the inside, under the neckband and stitch in place. (It is much easier to press when it is understitched)  It should match up nicely with the other side of the neckband.

BrendaP

Re: Neckline Help
« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2020, 21:14:55 PM »
As @toileandtrouble says.

Understitching is done through both seam allowances and the facing, and if you can put a bit of tension on the facing by pulling it away from the already stitched seam. The under stitching is only a couple of mm from the seam.

Once understitched I like to use my duckbill scissors and trim the remaining seam allowances close to the understitching. 
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/