The Sewing Place

Patterned fabric

Gernella

Patterned fabric
« on: July 08, 2020, 15:27:27 PM »
I made a skirt earlier this year with a remnant, Lady McElroy's Stripey Palms. It was that gorgeous I even made it longer  than I usually wear to get value on the pattern.

So I've decided to make dress in the same fabric but got a query.  Would it be better with seams at the front or darts to avoid spoiling the pattern?

I'm currently using the pattern I'd picked out on a plain fabric which has four darts at the front.

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/808177251/fabric-lady-mcelroy-stripey-palms?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_uk_en_gb_ds-c-Supplies-craft_supplies_and_tools-other&utm_custom1=cd5f7f25-89b8-4ec0-98f8-ce4a72319562&utm_content=go_6479444538_74547372381_380917264451_aud-371913912633:pla-295462056907_c__808177251engb&utm_custom2=6479444538&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3ZX4BRDmARIsAFYh7ZKOA_OpvvqsdRfjcPEbfQg_ALG1cQoHRDjkBjxIgfjl7B-IXgPx-GAaAvplEALw_wcB
Stash extension 2020 - 18.8 meters
Left at the end of 2019 - 39 meters

BrendaP

Re: Patterned fabric
« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2020, 16:08:29 PM »
@Gernella  Are you meaning princess seams or darts?

I personally would opt for darts to have an unbroken area of pattern across the front bust.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Gernella

Re: Patterned fabric
« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2020, 10:08:47 AM »
That's the word I was looking for princess seams. So you think darts, even though there two each side of the front.  I suppose really with two seams you are taking a chunk out even with a small allowance. The skirt I did  with it had a two inch band at the top and more by pure luck than judgement, the pattern followed on nicely. Thank you.
Stash extension 2020 - 18.8 meters
Left at the end of 2019 - 39 meters

charlotte

Re: Patterned fabric
« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2020, 10:16:17 AM »
By four darts do you mean a waist dart and a bust dart on each side of the bodice? Depending on your shape and size and how fitted you would like the dress, I might be tempted to move everything into the bust dart if you really wanted a nice unbroken pattern across the front. I would definitely choose darts over seams though, and I think this fabric would work fine keeping both waist and bust darts.

Kwaaked

Re: Patterned fabric
« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2020, 10:42:54 AM »
Another for darts.  With careful placement of the pattern piece on the bust darts, like on the tops of the tree in the leaves, you can minimize the more broken look as well.

But Charlotte is right, it should look fine making darts anyway.

Gernella

Re: Patterned fabric
« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2020, 13:06:26 PM »
Actually if you count the bust darts there is 6 of the beasties.




So darts it will be, when I get round to it.  I'm in the middle of the tryout.

Stash extension 2020 - 18.8 meters
Left at the end of 2019 - 39 meters

Stitchalot

Re: Patterned fabric
« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2020, 06:49:28 AM »
I think that perhaps if I were making this dress with that fabric I would mark the fish eye darts without stitching them initially (you  need to sew bust darts). Then do the main construction and try it on to see if they are really needed. It could be that you decide they are unnecessary or you can slightly adjust side seams for a good fit. Or you might do just one rather than pairs. There’s nothing to be lost with this approach. Hope it works out well, it’s lovely fabric.

Gernella

Re: Patterned fabric
« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2020, 10:01:55 AM »
To be perfectly truthful @Stitchalot  when I tried on the trial dress I  thought then that the front seemed all darts, I think it would be better with only one set, that maybe this is the way to go and easier with the fabric pattern.  I can see they are aiming for a shaped bodice but on a plain fabric, they draw your eye.
Stash extension 2020 - 18.8 meters
Left at the end of 2019 - 39 meters

charlotte

Re: Patterned fabric
« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2020, 11:37:17 AM »
Ah I see, lots of darts!

I think I would be tempted to close up one of the waist darts on each side if you want to keep the fitted look. I think that they would add interest on a plain fabric, but could look a bit much with your stripes.

Goth Gardiner

Re: Patterned fabric
« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2020, 17:51:49 PM »
If lack of pattern matching and broken patterns bothers you I would find a pattern with fewer darts and keep this pattern for plains, small prints or geometrics.

Stash busting: 2.25m in; 2.25m sewn  |
UFOs finished: 1 | Items repaired:
1