The Sewing Place

Vogue business article.

Surest1tch

Vogue business article.
« on: July 17, 2020, 12:49:57 PM »
Just stopped for a cuppa while I'm trying to clear my house of some of the crap that's built up in the house over the last year or so and having a browse around the web while I'm drinking it. I've stumbled across this and thought it might be interesting for some of the more curvy amongst us. Not sure which section it should go in so please admin can you put it in the right place for me, sorry if it's going to cause you work  :'(.

https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/challenging-a-fatphobic-industry-to-adapt

Ohsewsimple

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2020, 13:46:49 PM »
Interesting article and some good ideas in there. 

UttaRetch

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2020, 14:06:01 PM »
I like the notion of secret adjustments, but none of the clothing pictured in the article was very inspiring.

Acorn

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2020, 14:17:28 PM »
That is very interesting.  I am slightly bemused by the designer who says that they are making clothes more comfortable because it keeps them out of landfill... don't they want to run a successful business by satisfying their customers for their own sake?   :thinking:
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Esme866

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2020, 17:52:38 PM »
Interesting article.

@Acorn - I understood that the concept of having adjustable clothing to keep them out of the landfill, wasn't necessarily for comfort but to allow the piece to adjust as the wearer's body could change over time -  theoretically allowing someone to wear a piece for many years.  I immediately wondered if they are using a quality of fabric that will last that long - and where can I get some!?!

I'm with @UttaRetch though. The designs shown seemed to be blousy, frilly potato sacks for the most part.

OTOH I understand the dilemma the manufacturers.I am definitely plus size. But by the time anything fits my chest, the bum area, the neck and shoulders are massively huge.

They'll probably have to bury me in my best pair of black Jean's and nicest mens' pull over (jumper). 'Cause I can honestly say, once I'm dead, who cares....bury me.....creamate me.....do whatever with my stuff.....just please, please, please...do NOT force me to spend eternity in a ruffled potato sack.....unless of course those sacks come with ridged, fried chips....in which case.....bring them on....the worms and I can party!

Acorn

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2020, 19:14:23 PM »
Ah - that makes more sense @Esme866!

 
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

sewingj

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2020, 19:26:20 PM »
I`m interested in this as my daughter is very much plus size.  She spends her whole time in loose trousers and top - always dark colours because she doesn`t want to stand out.  The problem is that she really wants clothes to make her look a lot thinner than she is.  I don`t think they actually exist but the designs featured here would not appeal to her at all.

Tamnymore

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2020, 22:46:38 PM »
These clothes don't really appeal! If you are making your own clothes the Big 4 pattern companies mainly go up to size 22 but they have sime larger sizes. However Stylearc patterns all go up to size 30 so no need to go for a frilly sack. The more I use their patterns the more impressed I am with their fit and styling. They are really well drafted and properly graded between sizes.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

WendyW

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2020, 03:16:31 AM »
I didn't see anything there that would appeal to me either. I never thought about making clothes "adjustable" other than elastic, and grow features for children such as deep hems. I like the idea of internal drawstrings and I'll have to think about other things that might work. It would not be hard to add such details to self-made fashion, and my weight fluctuates enough for it to be worth the time.

I think the big problem with making plus-size clothing is that women gain fluff in different areas. Belly vs. bumm vs bust vs. large frame all require different shapes. A designer could potentially make several size lines (like "curvy" jeans) but the cost/return ratio for production would probably not be worth it.

UttaRetch

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2020, 08:37:11 AM »
Dealing with returns costs businesses billions and is, in fact, a broken retail model.

The clothing line of Bravissimo offer clothing in curvy, really curvy and super curvy.

Esme866

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2020, 19:46:51 PM »
The only pattern I've drafted for myself, that I am almost happy with, is a trouser pattern.  All I have left to do is taper the leg at the bottom from the knee down, but this will of course require an adjustment to the slope of the back rise - and so it has yet to be done.

For the life of me, I don't understand how someone like me that thoroughly enjoys drafting architectural drawings, can feel so miserable about pattern drafting. Boggles my mind.

But anyway- to get back to the topic:

My one adjustment to a classic trouser style was something referred to as a "Daks" waistband back in the 60's and 70's for men. I've even seen Sean Connery in them back then.

There is a piece of elastic encased in the center back waistband and it has fabric strips attached at both ends that fasten via buttons or hooks to each side of the band. All of this is hidden on the inside of the band, yet gives the benefits of elastic without what I refer to as the "frumpy" look of elastic. It takes the place of having to wear a belt.

My once abnormally tiny waist (what originally caused me to HAVE to sew) is now so round it can no longer keep a pair of trousers on my body, and I have looked and felt hideous with a belt on for decades now.

This is one item of adjustment that could make a drastic difference in ladies RTW trousers, yet I've not seen it anywhere.

It would of course be a tiny bit labor intensive and therefore eat into the potential profit margin.

If there is enough interest here, it could get me off my arse to do a tutorial - plus I'd have the trousers I want FINALLY.

I know most of us are happy with our elastic waistbands at home, but having to wear them for dress wear or work, simply makes me feel old and frumpy. Anyone else feel the same?

I NEED less "frumpiness" in my life.

P.S. Before anyone freaks out, I know I would need to call it something else besides "Daks" as I'm certain there's most likely a patent somewhere. I'm thinking the "No Saks" waistband.

Hmmm...I'm going to make myself start on this, this week.

jintie

Re: Vogue business article.
« Reply #11 on: July 19, 2020, 06:21:48 AM »
Tailors put two buttons each side, for adjustment after large meals (maybe the valet did this the next day).
Make do and mender