The Sewing Place

Pattern makers rulers help?

Sewot

Pattern makers rulers help?
« on: July 23, 2020, 05:50:15 AM »
You might have seen the shirts I made in the wardrobe.
I plan to make trousers next to my own design that will be in the style of loose fitting jogging pants but from lighter material.
I have sent off for two books on mens pattern making.
I just want to continue making clothes for myself as I enjoy sewing and sewing machines and get to wear what I have made.
I have no illusions of being a top male fashion designer...no no.
I notice that on googling pattern makers rulers the whole world had jumped on the band wagon wanting to sell me complete cased outfits for professional pattern designers or on the opposite side cheap Chinese plastic sets that are likely to snap as the plastic is too brittle.
As far as I can make out, the french curve for arm holes and crotch lines seems what I need.
What do " you" use please?
What would be a good brand?
I'd rather spend out once than be sorry I bought cheap rubbish.
I rather like the idea of the old wooden ones but they could be out of fashion like the Singer 201K.
Ahem!!....
I hope you get my drift!
I have a Singer 201.
Maybe a vintage ruler might be better?
All help appreciated.
Pete

Renegade Sewist

Re: Pattern makers rulers help?
« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2020, 06:55:51 AM »
This recent thread from over in The Haberdashery might answer some questions for you.
Hey Bill! Read the manual!  Hehehe.

Kwaaked

Re: Pattern makers rulers help?
« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2020, 08:02:10 AM »
While the thread certainly will be useful, they don't have to be vintage.  And India uses wooden rulers that you can buy new, so it's not necessarily "vintage" to use them.

My men's work stems from 4 books, one from the 1880s (I rarely use it, so the name escapes me at the moment and it's at work) and Moda Aloi - Il Taglio del sarto moderno from 1932 and 1 from Muller und Sohn, one fairly recent (the 21st Century) and one from Soviet Russia from the 40s or 50s.

You will need an L square with it at the very least in addition to the curve rulers.  Tailoring is also often fairly precise, and you need to make sure all the lines are actually lined up, precisely, to achieve this.  Having a cuff ruler, while not necessary, is also immensely helpful.

Generally, the Fairgate designer set will have everything you need in it and probably a little more.  They're metal, sort of flimsy...but the thing is, you take care of your rulers because you use them.  Chinese made ones are generally fine, but sometimes the measurements are off...fine if you don't use them for that, not so great if you do.

As to the machine, I did an internship with a tailor I got because I used vintage machines.  In my interview, I was asked what I learned to sew on, what I had at home and what I could use.  I learned to sew on a 201, and I got the job because that was a main machine in his tailoring portion of his business, I didn't have to learn to use it.

In my own shop, most of my tailoring is done on my 66 treadle outfitted with a tailor stitch (20 SPI), and I do use my 201 fairly often in work, especially on days I don't want to think about what I am doing since I learned on that machine and it is a quality machine, one that has long been in use in dressmaker's shop and at tailors. I have machines from the 1800s to 2016 in there.  If I could find a real industrial treadle, I would get rid of my Consew in a heart beat.

Being vintage is neither here nor there...the machine that does the best work for the job is always the one in use.


Esme866

Re: Pattern makers rulers help?
« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2020, 08:31:54 AM »
@Sewot That thread does have a lot of good info. Thanks @Renegade Sewist I missed that one before.

The patternmaster thingy (one of my favorite technical terms!) does look quite interesting and guess what? Like so many other things, especially sewing related, it was out of stock on one of the posted links.

Don't be afraid to buy something inexpensive to make do at the moment. I first started drafting 45 years ago. The overwhelming majority of damage inflicted on my drafting tools resulted from being hauled back and forth to classes. So long as the equipment is properly squared and marked, cheap can work just fine until you find something you love.

Like the $29 stainless steel architects' scale I had to buy on my way to close a $350,000 sale. I'd forgot mine and it was the only architects scale in stock. Could a bought an engineers scale for $6.99.

A word on french curves: most are manufactured for mechanical/architectural drawing, so most sets aren't very practical for pattern making due to their small arcs. When I finally made my first pair of trousers that fit, I just eyeballed and free handed the crotch curves as I had nothing available to draw them with. Nailed that part on the first attempt. This was after considerable in depth studying of numerous selfies taken with the timer on my phone camera. Those selfies are my #1 pattern drafting aid.

I do use metal rulers with a cork backing for a straight edge. I like being able to get the accuracy of using a scale for measurements and there's no problem with warpage- which can be a problem with long plastic rulers.

One of my favorite drafting tools is a 6" very thin plastic architects scale received as a freebie gift from a sales rep decades ago. Very handy for adding seam allowances.

Basically, drafting tools are all about what you personally feel comfortable with.

Regarding old wooden drafting tools - they tend to be quite dented. Just the nature of the beast - in case something on ebay catches your eye. :dance:

And @Kwaaked 's post is spot on.


Sewot

Re: Pattern makers rulers help?
« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2020, 08:41:31 AM »
I went to the sewing store this avo and bought the Sew Easy french curve.
It is Australian design but made in China.
It is transparent bendy plastic which will not shatter.
It is about 24" long and does necklines, armholes, sleeve caps, hiplines , waist and hemlines.
It comes with a straight inbuilt grading ruler.
This should cover everything I need.
Well happy.
Pete

UttaRetch

Re: Pattern makers rulers help?
« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2020, 08:51:01 AM »
I have one of those as well as a pattern master, but you don't need both.  I bought mine when I had more money.