The Sewing Place

Basic how-to guides for a ham-fisted measurer

Emerion

Basic how-to guides for a ham-fisted measurer
« on: August 15, 2020, 16:13:21 PM »

I’m a beginner, and I’m finding measuring fabric straight really difficult. For example, I spent hours trying to measure out the pieces for a large oblong cushion cover. I borrowed a metal right angle, not really designed for sewing, and the results improved, but still not perfect. I expect it’s because fabric moves and flexes, even when you think it hasn’t. I think if I could just get this skill right, the sewing but would be so much easier. I’ve had a scan around this website, hoping to find a section with a few idiot guides for beginners. Is there one on here? If not, can you recommend a site that would help? Thank you
Machine: Singer 99K 1954
Ability: Plenty of room for improvement

Elnnina

Re: Basic how-to guides for a ham-fisted measurer
« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2020, 17:00:00 PM »
Hello Emerion, I suspect your fabric is not quite on the grain, this is the main warp thread which runs from top to bottom, the other thread is called the weft thread. 

Whilst you have mentioned cushions, have a look at a youtube that I have found really useful even though it is for dressmaking.    I just type in youtube FD50 layout, cutting and marking  and this should take you to the West Valley College, and the lady showing you how to straighten woven fabric is Karen Kurtz, once she has straightened her fabric she then proceeds to layout her pattern pieces and mark them and then cut them out.

When I was at school we often had to grab a partner and each hold the fabric in question diagonally and give a really hard pull in order to get the fabric straight.  Karen is showing how you can do this by yourself, and it is quite a work out, but it does work  once you have the fabric straight then it is much easier to actually cut out what you want and know it is on the correct grain.  If the fabric is not straightened up it will always hang or look crooked - this is just something that happens during the weaving/printing of the fabric.

wrenkins

Re: Basic how-to guides for a ham-fisted measurer
« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2020, 17:20:26 PM »
Here you go @Elnnina  and @Emerion  :)
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

Elnnina

Re: Basic how-to guides for a ham-fisted measurer
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2020, 17:24:32 PM »
Sorry Emerion, I forgot to mention that first you must get a straight edge to your fabric before you try to straighten this, and this is achieved either by pulling a thread which is extremely difficult and time consuming but oh so worth it, or if the fabric allows is to tear this and the tear will of course go along the weft thread.  The danger of tearing the fabric is that sometimes it can snag and pull some of the warp threads, but these can be eased back by a little ironing with some steam.  Once you have the fabric straight you can lay it on a table and see whether it is laying straight to match the table's edge or board edge if you are using a cutting out board, if it isn't then you need to start pulling it as in the You Tube clip.

BrendaP

Re: Basic how-to guides for a ham-fisted measurer
« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2020, 19:23:30 PM »
I agree with everyone that the fabric needs to be on grain.

Marking fabric, with a pen, pencil, chalk or whatever can be tricky as fabric is much more likely to move as you mark than paper would be.  Even if you are only trying to cut a square you might find it easier to make a paper pattern, pin that to the fabric (being sure it's on-grain) and cut out from that.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Emerion

Re: Basic how-to guides for a ham-fisted measurer
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2020, 09:07:01 AM »
Thank you, I didn’t know about the importance of the grain. So there’s hope!
Machine: Singer 99K 1954
Ability: Plenty of room for improvement

Elnnina

Re: Basic how-to guides for a ham-fisted measurer
« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2020, 10:31:35 AM »
Believe me Emerion  straight grain makes such a difference.  Fabric cut at the shop whilst they try to cut it straight, it will not be on the grain, so when looking at that cut edge, try and decide which side is going to be the best to say start pulling a thread, use a pin to try and pick it up.  A warning though this thread will break so easily as you try to pull it out, so it is a question of trying to pick it up again where it broke.  You do need good light to see what you are doing.  Perhaps practice on some scraps first to get the hang of thread pulling and see how you get on.  Also on some larger scraps try giving an edge a snip and then tear - again just for practise and once done fold it in half and see if the fabric lays totally flat no wrinkles, if it wrinkles then you have to start the pulling into shape as per the You Tube link FD50.

Greybird

Re: Basic how-to guides for a ham-fisted measurer
« Reply #7 on: August 16, 2020, 11:42:48 AM »
When pulling threads I always make a short cut into the fabric at the side so that I can tease out a thread to pull. If it breaks, I carefully cut along the "track" that it's left, up to the break, and then tease another thread out at that point to continue pulling. Carry on in this way until the other side is reached. It is a fiddle but it is so worthwhile and I actually enjoy doing it.