That dress

[Syrinx]

A few of you may remember me struggling to find a dress pattern a while back and being given lots of good suggestions. I went with (brenda's find I think) the Closet Core pattern as it looked closest and had pockets! This is also the design I can't pick buttons for  (as always, please send any button ideas my way!)
I figured I'd do a follow up post for the dress as it will be a work in progress type thing as opposed to sit down and get it all done in a day thing. I want it to fit right!

First off a little review of the pattern and instructions.
Notes - The instructions for this are rather spectacular. There is even a link to a fitting guide specificaly for this pattern (though the usual things, FBA, apex adjustments, seat and back adjustments etc) but all drawn out with diagrams and instructions on what each fit issue looks like and how to fix it. The FBA bit is particularly good and shows exactly where etc the slashes and spreads should be which I think is a nice touch.

The pattern printing section is great as it lists all the page numbers for the pages you need to print for each bodics and each skirt so a 50 page pattern can be reduced to 30 - saving paper! The only negative is the lack of layers and the fact that each size is b&w so I'll have to be careful cutting it all out. I may email them about it, because I do get a little frustrated.
The pattern layout section is outstanding as it shows options for all sizes and both views, so big plus for them there very inclusive.

The sewing instructions are clear and detailed with an overabundance of diagrams. This will be quite the relief after the style arc pattern I made at the weekend where I had to engage my brain and remember stuff! So I feel like I have gotten far more than my money's worth with this pattern and am very much looking forward to making it up.


I wasn't going to bother with a toile originally as I'm lazy, but reading through the instructions I think I should at least make a bodice toile (as heavily recommended) as I'll probably have to adjust the bust (FBA) anyway and possibly the torso length. I know I'll have to adjust the skirt length but hoping I can do that on paper rather than fabric. This means I have to dig out my calico. I am not sure where it is. Or how much is left if any.

I am as yet undecided on the pockets, the pattern has them on the front, but I'm tempted to change it and shove them in the side seam so there isn't anything to detract from the batik as I won't be able to pattern match.

[UttaRetch]

I occasionally make a toile, BUT with a dress do add the skirt too because this enables you to position the bodice correctly.

[snoozi soozi]

Sidetracking a wee bit but have I missed something..... I've heard of Closet Case patterns but not Closet Core. Are they linked?

[sewmuchmore]

I have made the cielo dress from this pattern company (and someone has made the top). I made it according to the size chart/my measurements and it was massive, so definitely a toile or some very careful measurement of the pattern pieces.
@snoozi soozi they are now called Closet Core, their is a blog on their site as to why.

[Syrinx]

I don't think I have enough calico left for the skirt. I will see what I can do.

I've made the bodice toile. After a load of confusing myself because I'm lazy and didn't press the straps

[UttaRetch]

The straps are definitely too long.  The addition of the skirt will probably pull down the bodice, but to be sure I would have toiled the skirt too.

[Helen M]

As someone who can't bear anything tight does it feel tight on you? For me I think it could do with a little easing.

Looked at photos on their website and straps seem to be set quite wide.

[coffeeandcake]

Agree that it needs a little easing around the upper bust. I would toile the skirt down to hip level to see how it affects the bodice. If you don't have enough calico just use something else. I use old sheets for toiles.

[Efemera]

It’s sitting up at the back.. the side seam isn’t at right angles to the floor. I think you need a FBA and to add some ease around the band at the top.

[Syrinx]

Ah efe, you're thinking it's a front problem not a side/back problem? I was so hoping to avoid an FBA

[sewmuchmore]

I agree with @Efemera the bodice is sitting away from your back and the side seams are veering towards the back. I think that the straps are probably the right length but they appear too long because the bodice should be sitting lower down your back. Have a look at the back view on their website. If the bodice sits lower down your back then this would also straighten the side seams. Did you measure your high bust and bust? The pattern is drafted for a b cup ie bust is 2 inch bigger than high bust. So if your bust measurement is more than 2 inch bigger than your high bust then you need to do a FBA and also add the ease around the top band as efemera says, as it appears a tad too tight. The design looks as if it should skim your body and not be as close fitting as you made it.
Hopes this helps.

[Syrinx]

I'm always borderline on FBA. If I don't FBA I need to move the apex.
I'll do a little FBA tomorrow, maybe a 1/4 inch or something. See how it goes. I was so hoping it was side seam adjustment

[sewmuchmore]

I'm always borderline on FBA. If I don't FBA I need to move the apex.
I'll do a little FBA tomorrow, maybe a 1/4 inch or something. See how it goes. I was so hoping it was side seam adjustment

[Missie]

I agree with @UttaRetch that you should also toile the skirt as well as the weight of it will change how the bodice sits on you.  But for now, you need to do and FBA, the side seam needs swinging towards the front and the back needs lengthening. 

Lovely style bodice though.

[Syrinx]

In a bid to do as little adjustment as possible I added on the skirt (short as all the calico I had left