The Sewing Place

Bengaline pencil skirt

Syrinx

Bengaline pencil skirt
« on: August 24, 2020, 08:15:54 AM »
I figured my stretch fabric journey has been going reasonable well, and I'm in need of a new pencil skirt for being smart and professional
« Last Edit: August 24, 2020, 08:19:36 AM by Syrinx »

wrenkins

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2020, 08:33:29 AM »
What a great haul @Syrinx. By far the most versatile item I ever had in my wardrobe was a silver grey looong pencil skirt. 
Can't wait to see what you make.  8)

As for the stretchy fabric I'll be interested in the answers to this as I have a beautiful piece I bought to make a sleeveless shirt/blouse and was stumped when it arrived. It has a stripe too so just another complication.  :S
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

Efemera

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2020, 08:38:35 AM »
There’s really no fabric laws... if you feel it would be better with the stretch going across then that’s fine. ( it’s what I would do )

Missie

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2020, 09:08:51 AM »
There’s really no fabric laws... if you feel it would be better with the stretch going across then that’s fine. ( it’s what I would do )

Totally agree, and just what I was going to say!

Helen M

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #4 on: August 24, 2020, 09:12:21 AM »
Style Arc recommend bengaline for their stretch woven pants but they warn you to cut with the stretch going round your body. If the pattern isn't for stretch fabric I'm not sure how it will workout.
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Syrinx

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #5 on: August 24, 2020, 09:17:55 AM »
Thanks, my gut was to cut with stretch across!

The pattern is pretty good, for wovens or suiting fabric, or suiting with a little stretch. I don't think it would work for a pure Jersey though, its a bit too structured for that. It's one of those "taper it to suit" and big kick pleat up the back designs so I may just take it in a little from my usual and taper a bit closer to the leg, maybe run the pleat up higher.

I'm hoping it may need less tweaking than usual as the stretch should help the bum fitting issue!

I'm quite looking forward to a silver grey pencil skirt! Just got to decide the length. Though that may be limited by the width of the bengaline!

I'm going to chuck it in the wash today so will measure up this afternoon if it's dry enough.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #6 on: August 24, 2020, 10:04:22 AM »
I think the stretch should go across.
I remember making pair of stretch denim wide leg trousers, it was very stretchy and the stretch went downwards, those trousers sort of bounced up and down as I walked!

wrenkins

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #7 on: August 24, 2020, 10:19:05 AM »
I think the stretch should go across.
I remember making pair of stretch denim wide leg trousers, it was very stretchy and the stretch went downwards, those trousers sort of bounced up and down as I walked!
You'd have to walk like a BeeGee.  :laughing:
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

BrendaP

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #8 on: August 24, 2020, 10:50:43 AM »

I remember making pair of stretch denim wide leg trousers, it was very stretchy and the stretch went downwards, those trousers sort of bounced up and down as I walked!

I once had a pair of very stretchy (4-way stretch) trousers and one day whilst wearing them I was caught in a very heavy shower downpour of rain.  The trousers got wet and they grew lengthways!

I agree with everyone else, maximum stretch should always go around the body so yes, cut on the cross grain.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
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Syrinx

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #9 on: August 24, 2020, 10:57:03 AM »
Phew! It's one of those things you think and then second guess because you "ALWAYS" cut on the grain!

I have decided to wash all the fabrics separately because I'm paranoid. I've also sewn them together to hopefully stop fraying. So here's hoping they all dry with minimal shrinkage and I get to sew up a pencil skirt this week!

It's weirdly so stretchy on the grain and so not stretchy cross grain. It's a bit of a mind bendy thing as it's all backwards hahaha.

Celia

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #10 on: August 24, 2020, 13:08:40 PM »
I have sewn  a whole wardrobe in Bengaline  and it is a great fabric to sew and to wear, some I have used was a bit of. Pig to iron so do test it out, the more it is washed the better it irons. Another tip do pre wash it if you can.

Syrinx

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #11 on: August 24, 2020, 14:26:28 PM »
Oh thank you @Celia ! It is in the wash as we speak. It came in the same parcel as the suiting which smelled very warehousey so into the wash it has gone.

I hadn't even thought about ironing! What sort of problems did you have? Not ironing wrinkles out or it melting with too much heat (that is a perennial fear of mine hahaha)

Celia

Re: Bengaline pencil skirt
« Reply #12 on: August 24, 2020, 16:10:10 PM »
It doesn’t melt at least in my experience but can be difficult to get the creases out and in my case, I made a lot of trousers and I had a problem getting a crease in.
Hope it all goes well
Karen