The Sewing Place

Neckline help and ideas

rachel

Neckline help and ideas
« on: August 27, 2020, 10:33:31 AM »
(My second dress was made from what looked like a similar pattern to the first but came out a bit big and shapeless looking. I carefully unpicked, caarefully checked cutting and darts and seam allowances and carefully remade, but it seems that either I'm a funny shape or I've chosen completely the wrong size as the shaping bits (side darts and back darts) don't seem to be where I need them. Anyway, the second version was also unpicked (it's a shame as the invisible zip had gone in almost perfectly) and is now a shorts and vest set for sleeping in. Hey ho. I really liked the fabric and might rebuy to get that dress I wanted! )


Anyway, I have a question about necklines. I reverted to the original pattern to make a longer version and experiment with the hemline.

But I think I must have narrow shoulders because the pattern seems to be almost 'off the shoulder' on me. I have googled for info on how to adapt the pattern and will try that later, but this current one is already cut and there's no going back. Off the shoulder as a look is fine, but during wear it rides up and causes a gaping neckline. So, for now, I'm experimenting with darts or pleats in the neckline to try to get it to sit better. Fortunately, the fabric has a small flower print, not like the sharks where any such darts would have been too obvious.

Anyway, I'm after some advice and creative ideas to disguise neckline darts - a flounce/frill or simple collar around the neckline? Or is that too complicated to bother with at this stage?

I may get some cheap cotton fabric to practise making vest style tops to see how the shaping works, any fails can always be used to sleep in.  -<

Many thanks for any suggestions

rachel

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2020, 10:49:33 AM »
Sorry, tried to fix typo in title but not working :/

BrendaP

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2020, 11:40:08 AM »
@rachel which pattern is it?

Sometimes a small dart (pair of darts) at the neckline can help, but if the garment isn't fitting in other areas then you do need to go back to basics.  It might well be worth the time an effort to make up a fitting shell to sort out exactly what your fitting problems are.  Once you've done that you can then compare the "master" to any other pattern.

https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/b5627?variant=347607405

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vogue-Patterns-V1004-Misses-Fitting/dp/B000TUZ52Y/ref=asc_df_B000TUZ52Y/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=256093557972&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11382634390229358010&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007021&hvtargid=pla-414279442317&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

rachel

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2020, 11:57:54 AM »
Hi, thanks for the reply

The pattern is this one https://so-sew-easy.com/lilly-shift-dress-pattern-potm/. It seems to fit the model nicely on her shoulders but is sliding off mine.  To clarify, it was a different pattern that I gave up on entirely - this one http://thelittlesewist.blogspot.com/search?q=shift)

 Thank you for the pattern ideas - I will experiment with different patterns to see which fits best.
On this one,I will go with the neckline darts but it would be nice to work out what I'm doing wrong.


Edited to add, scrolling down that pattern link, there's a lady further down, the third one down, who has the shoulders like mine, almost sliding off her.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2020, 12:12:30 PM by rachel »

BrendaP

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2020, 12:14:55 PM »
scrolling down that pattern link, there's a lady further down, the third one down, who has the shoulders like mine, almost sliding off her.

The green dress or the multi coloured dress?

The green dress looks to fit quite well, but she says she did some alterations (shortened the bodice) but it also looks as though she scooped the neckline a bit too.

The multi coloured dress has a much straighter neckline and her shoulders appear to be quite sloping, which can cause problems with the neckline gaping.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

toileandtrouble

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #5 on: August 27, 2020, 12:20:57 PM »
Have you checked high bust measurement against full bust?  If there is more than 2"/5cm difference, you need to use the high bust measurement for pattern size and do a full bust adjustment (easier than it sounds) This usually sorts out neck width problems.
If the darts are wrong on you, then you need to raise or lower the dart to make it fit you.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

rachel

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #6 on: August 27, 2020, 12:32:14 PM »
The green dress or the multi coloured dress?

The green dress looks to fit quite well, but she says she did some alterations (shortened the bodice) but it also looks as though she scooped the neckline a bit too.

The multi coloured dress has a much straighter neckline and her shoulders appear to be quite sloping, which can cause problems with the neckline gaping.

I meant the multicoloured one



Have you checked high bust measurement against full bust?  If there is more than 2"/5cm difference, you need to use the high bust measurement for pattern size and do a full bust adjustment (easier than it sounds) This usually sorts out neck width problems.
If the darts are wrong on you, then you need to raise or lower the dart to make it fit you.

Thank you, will look into this.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #7 on: August 27, 2020, 12:49:33 PM »
I also think you may need to start with a different size. 
Did you use actual measurements to check which size to make?   

wrenkins

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #8 on: August 27, 2020, 12:56:06 PM »
Rachel if I was to buy the size that accommodated my bust I would need a size 22. I'm a size 12 with very narrow shoulders.  :( Go with your upper bust measurement and as has been said do an FBA.
I'm off now before @Elnnina catches me...  ;)
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

rachel

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #9 on: August 27, 2020, 13:06:00 PM »
I also think you may need to start with a different size. 
Did you use actual measurements to check which size to make?

Rachel if I was to buy the size that accommodated my bust I would need a size 22. I'm a size 12 with very narrow shoulders.  :( Go with your upper bust measurement and as has been said do an FBA.
I'm off now before @Elnnina catches me...  ;)

Hi, yes I did measure first, but of course I went with my full bust measurement. From what I've read, thanks to @toileandtrouble and confirmed here by @wrenkins  I should be starting from the smaller size and doing a FBA. I've just watched a couple of videos on how to do this so am going to try it.

Thanks again for the suggestions


wrenkins

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #10 on: August 27, 2020, 13:08:57 PM »
Yip. That's a lot of your problem. If you put on a shirt that is a size too big look where the shoulder/sleeve seam falls.
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

Elnnina

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #11 on: August 27, 2020, 13:13:02 PM »
I see that you are trying to avoid me Wrenkins, now stop procrastinating and fine that pattern and lets get you sorted out once and for all.  After all I am waiting to help you!!!!!!

BrendaP

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #12 on: August 27, 2020, 13:23:20 PM »
I meant the multicoloured one

That dress on the model doesn't fit well, at least in part due to her sloping shoulders.  You might have other issues as suggested by others.  Photos would help.  I still think you will learn a lot by making up a shell pattern in cheap gingham and tweek that as much as necessary to get a good fit on you.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

rachel

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #13 on: August 27, 2020, 13:35:42 PM »
Another clue that I may have made the wrong size is that the shark one goes on and off over my head with no need for the zip...

@BrendaP - yes, I will try a few different things to see what works best.

BrendaP

Re: Neckline help and ideas
« Reply #14 on: August 28, 2020, 09:17:01 AM »
A lot of well fitting dresses (if they are not close fitted) will go over your head with the zip fastened.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.